Frederik Dawson

3.50 Netherlands - 18-Nov-24 -

From the vibrant city of Padang, it was a half day drive tour on one of the most dangerous roads in Indonesia to the town of Sawahlunto. Along the way, I saw old colonial cement plants, sampled many fusions of Indonesian and Dutch dishes in a local restaurant which is opened for almost a century, drank tea from a former Dutch tea plantation. Dutch industrial heritages on exploiting natural resources from Sumatra are everywhere. When I reached Sawahlunto, area of Ombilin Company Town to be precise, it was already dark, so I directly went to stay and sleep at the heritage Ombilin Hotel, the only hotel during colonial for government officers and important company guests.

Next day early morning I walked around the town to see main component of company town such as Santa Barbara Catholic Church and Co-Operative Building which are just opposite the road, both are built in Nieuwe Indische Bouwstijl or Dutch Indies Style that can be seen in many Indonesian old town quarters in Java. The Assembly Hall (Societeit Glück auf) is in ruinous state after fire damage. On the main road of market area, few buildings are worth to visit for its unique architecture, Comedy House and Pek Sin Kek House, both are built in the so-called Sino-Portuguese style, similar to those shophouses in Malaysia and Singapore. On the hill next to market area is the old Sawahlunto Train Station which is now a museum that displayed old steam trains, the historic Ombilin Railway Track is still in good condition. Nearby Nurul Islam Mosque is probably the most interesting building to see, originally a steam power plant but converted to mosque after mine closure, and its minaret is the chimney of power plant! Then I walked back to Mining Administrative Compound, the main attraction is the old management buildings and Dutch High Officer & Engineer Residences on the main square. The former Head Office Building is probably the most iconic with its old clock tower. I really enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere of the town, it reminded me Luang Prabang in Laos with the same vibe of sleepy Asian colonial town. 

After ended my self-walking tour, I met my guide at hotel lobby who took me to see the town in different perspective. At first, he reminded me that despite we are in the heartland of local Minangkabau people and culture, Ombilin Company Town is different as its main residence are descendants of “Enemy of Netherlands” from other parts of Indonesia archipelago. My guide took me to the Goedang Ransoem, Soup Kitchen Building, I was impressed with German steam engines for cooking, then my guide started to tell stories of forced labors, chained company slaves, miners standard and the hierarchy between Dutch, other Europeans, Chinese merchants, Chinese officers, Collaborators, or local called them “traitors”, and the Enemy of Netherlands in this town was downhearted to hear. From the viewpoint, Puncak Cemara, when I mentioned the unique layout of town that separated labor quarter from factory area with administrative area in the center, my guide told the story of how chained labor paraded through the main square from their ghetto to factory and reminded me again that the whole town was the prison! After heard many unheard stories of mistreatment during colonial time and WWII tragic stories when Japanese slaughtered many miners and forced women as comfort ladies, my guide ended the tour at Kerkhof or Dutch Cemetery and reminded me that despite bad memory, locals preserved this cemetery while other Dutch Cemeteries in Java and Padang had been bulldozed. 

On my way to Batusangkar to see the famous Istano Basa Pagaruyung, one of the iconic sights of Indonesia Tourism, my driver stopped enroute for me to see the big three silos of Coal Processing Plant Compound which is remarkable well preserved; Mining School, its red color and many windows are the most eye-catching building in the area, as well as the delipidated condition of Salak Power Plant. Along the road between Padang Panjang to Padang, especially the mountainous zone between Padang Panjang Station and Kayu Taman Station, the historic abandoned Railway System which is a part of this World Heritage Site can be admired easily. There are many rail bridges crossing the river gorge, the most impressive one is Tinggi Bridge which is not only crossing the river but also the main road highway. The railway section near Padang is clearly well maintained for frequent train services between Padang and Pariaman. I noticed that the main road between Padang Airport and city center is built next to the railway, so for casual world heritage site travelers, this World Heritage Site can be tick off effortlessly! On my last day in Padang, I went to see inaccessible Emmahaven Coal Storage which I only saw its roof and found out that the old coal port has become the big dusty port for cement and palm oil. 

I have mix feeling of this World Heritage Site, at first, I only thought Ombilin mine as industrial heritage celebrating superb Dutch engineering and idea of industrial urban planning, but after learned those dark histories of colonial mistreatment on locals in Sumatra, I felt bad and apologetic of what happened during that period. I also learned that many leaders of Indonesia independence revolution come from this region, they witnessed the atrocity and really distrusted the Netherlands, not like Javanese leaders, resulting failure of Netherlands-Indonesia Union. If history does not bother me, I really enjoyed visiting Padang and Sawahlunto regions and this World Heritage Site for its beautiful natural and agricultural landscapes that in my opinion better than Bali, amazing vernacular architecture, and culture of Minangkabau, fine and interesting industrial heritage, delicious Nasi Padang cuisine and friendliness of locals.

Bernard Joseph Esposo Guerrero

3.00 The Philippines - 27-Oct-23 -

Tucked deep within the Bukit Barisan mountains, Sawahlunto may not ring a bell to many, but it is a city that is well worth a visit. The two-hour drive from either Padang or Padang Panjang is not short of wonderful sceneries including those offered by Kerinci Seblat National Park, the island’s largest nature reserve.

The detection of coal in Sawahlunto is attributed to the Dutch colonial authorities' efforts to explore and exploit the natural resources of Indonesia (formerly the Dutch East Indies) for economic gain. The attempts by geologists and prospectors in the mid-19th century led to the discovery of significant coal deposits in the region. The coal obtained was found to be of superior quality and the valley, suitable for large-scale mining. 

The seemingly endless supply of coal from the site contributed to the industrialization and modernization of the Dutch East Indies and the Netherlands. It powered machineries, railway networks, and ships that played crucial roles in transportation and trade operations during the colonial era. They invested heavily in developing it as a mining town equipped with some of the most advanced technologies of the time, demonstrating a most complete knowledge and technology transfer from Europe to the East.

While deep-bore coal mining in Sawahlunto is no longer as commercially significant as it was during the peak of the industry, declining in the latter part of the 20th century due to the depletion of coal reserves and changing economic conditions, the city was able to preserve its mining attributes in excellent conditions. Because of this, the Ombilin Coal Mining Heritage of Sawahlunto was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. Today, the city boasts at least six museums and restored old structures where one can gain a deeper understanding of the heritage of this once prolific mining town.

Having been received by the site managers of Sawahlunto as a visiting cultural worker, I was able to see all the components that make up the world heritage site and was even accompanied by the people (local historians, fellow ICOMOS members, engineers, etc.) who worked hard to get the city in the prestigious list quite swiftly. The city boasts colonial period buildings including the company town administrative building, a church, social hall (that bears "Glück Auf", a greeting used by miners in the Erzgebirge region), hotel, hospital, mining school, railway stations, coal storage facilities, and several residences including the extensive laborers’ quarter whose residents even developed their own creole. Here are some other sites that are of interest to sightseers:

Mbah Soero Mine Pit Site Museum. The museum was built on the site of a ventilation shaft of an underground mine. Through guided-only tours, it allows visitors to go 35 meters deep to get a glimpse into dark and damp world of coal extraction. During my visit, the management had just successfully drained the water that filled up Level 2 and I was allowed access to that restricted section 75 meters below the ground. The site manager shared that I was the first outsider to see it and that it will still take years before the general public can safely explore that depth.

Goedang Ransoem Museum. Not far from the mine pit site is another museum housed in the former kitchen and mess hall compound that was built in 1918. The museum showcases the meals provided to the mines’ laborers and the implements used in preparing them. In each meal, the kitchen used to produce enough quantity to feed as much as 6,000 individuals. Outside, beside the coal-fired steam generator, piles of grave markers of the Orang Rangtai (meaning, chained men; slaves forced to work in the mines), distinguished by the engraved numbers corresponding to the identity of each slave, have been retrieved over the years. There is also an audio-visual room inside the museum where a short documentary on Sawahlunto’s history is shown, as well as a souvenir shop that sells coal-carved products.

Museum Kereta Api Sawahlunto. Twice a month, the city’s train station –the start of a more than 100-kilometer railway network— operates its last fully functioning steam locomotive. It travels all the way down to Muara Kalaban train station, passing through the 827-meter-long Kalam tunnel. The charming train museum acts a repository of instruments relating to trains and the transport of coal.

The impressive and largely unscathed colonial period railway network winds around Bukit Barisan and terminates at Emmahaven Port where another Dutch-built coal storage and sorting facility still stands. There used to be two. Entrance to the facility in the port area of Padang, however, is regulated and is only possible if permission is gained from the Bukit Asam Company. The site managers sought one for me and I was even guided inside and to the top by an engineer. 

Salak Power Plant and Rantih Water Pumping Station. The former power plant is in a state of disrepair but there are plans by the management to make the former into an electrical museum in the future. According to them, it is still intact and can be brought back to operating condition. The water pumping station is fully working. While both facilities are located far away from the city center, it nevertheless rewards anyone, especially those who are interested in the history of energy production, with remarkably intact and topnotch industrial plantations.

At the end of a satisfying three-day stay in the mining town, a greater sense of appreciation to industrial heritage is born. Charming, cool-climate, and tourist-friendly Sawahlunto offers a journey into history where guests can see one of the greatest achievements during the Dutch colonial period in Southeast Asia.

Jarek Pokrzywnicki

4.50 Polska - 29-Aug-19 -

Site visited in August, 2019, Just a few weeks after inscription. Nice surprise. I managed to see 2 components out of 3: coal storage facilities located in Padang (port of Emmahaven), and mining town Sawahlunto.

Initially visited those storage facilities in Padang – area is not marked by any means – you should use location from a website (exact coordinates 0°59'28.7"S 100°22'51.6"E). Site consists of warehouses, infrastructure and different machineries connected with coal. The whole site looks as unused and a bit neglected for some time but is still fenced – the only access is from western part of Jl Tj. Priuk road. As for August 2019 the site looks as completely unprepared for mass tourism but you can visit all places at your own risk – some areas are not very secure. The site can be reached from Padang central area (around 7 km) by Go Jek or by local public transport (minibuses).
 
Sawahlunto itself is a small mining town located some 2 – 3 hours from Padang. You can easily use public transport (regular buses are from Jl Dr. Sutomo road), approximately hourly during the day.

The city looks prepared for tourism. There are several hotels (different standard), homestays (there is an office that gather all homestay offers – they can call and reserve such a place for you – standard also different), restaurants, museums, tourist information center – there is a decent map of the area with information in English.
 
Places not to miss in Sawahlunto area are:
 
Sizing plant (huge industrial area with silos, transporters, factory buildings, located approximately 0°40'43.5"S 100°46'28.8"E
Administration building of Ombilin Coal Mine – Bukit Asam PT (photo),
Museum Tambang Batu Bara Ombilin – different objects from mining activities as well as history of the town and coal mining,
Hole Mine Site Museum Mbah Suro & Infobox – museum and a possibility to see an underground coal mine, visits only with a guide, underground corridor is approximately 200 meters long,
Museum Goedang Ransoem – former kitchen for miners,
Puncak Polan, Puncak Guak Sugai – a summit overlooking Sawahlunto town with Hollywood-style lettering
Church of St Barbara,
Different colonial heritage scattered all over the city.
 
All those places seem to be recently restored, some museums like Tambang Batu can be visited free of charge, others – like Museum Situs Lubang Tambang Mbah Suro, has moderate prices  for visitors – 40.000 rupias – that is less than 3 dollars.
 
Mind that on Google maps you will be directed some 16 km further north from official heritage town. The original area is located similarly to coordinates of seizing plant.

The place can be recommended to industrial heritage lovers and those who like colonial atmosphere and architecture. It is small enough to see within one day.

Elisabeth Fransisca Situmorang

4.00 Indonesia - 24-Oct-17 -

The City of Sawah Lunto, around 3-4 hrs from Padang, the capital of West Sumatra, is actually quite a small town. It is an easy day trip starting from Bukittinggi and ending it in Padang (with a close detour to another TWHS, Nagari Sijunjung).

Visited the Goedang Ransum (mass kitchen for the labourer) Museum and one of the Coal Mine. It's really worth to see how the city was alive because of the coal mining exploitation from the Dutch period, how a big deal it was during that time. I must say it is cool experience.

Highly recommended.