Soltaniyeh

This nomination carried the Epic Subtitle “Dome of Soltaniyeh; the pasture which became the capital city of the empire”. Unfortunately, it was not brought forward to the inscription, now the name of this WHS is a simple Soltaniyeh. The original title though hinted at the Mongol origins of the site: this is the best representation of the heritage of the Mongolian Ilkhanids among Iran’s WHS, although the newer parts of Takht-e Soleyman and the Blue Mosque of Tabriz also date from this era (13th-14th century).

The famous Dome of Soltaniyeh can already be seen from miles away. The light-turquoise structure on top of a 50-meter-high octagonal building still towers above everything in its surroundings, including the current town of some 6,000 souls. This is a very flat landscape, the Mongolians are said to have chosen this spot to settle because of the vast pastures it provided for their horses.

The building was made to house the mausoleum of Ilkhanid khan Öljeitü. Its interior at the moment is fully covered in scaffolding, therefore unfortunately it is impossible to see anything of the inner construction of the dome. This repair work has been going on for a long time already, apparently since 1994. The ongoing restoration prompted me to look at the Management Plan that Iran submitted with the nomination. The 1-, 3- and 5-year action plans seem to be detailed. However only a budget of 300,000 dollars a year was available, from which they also have to pay for …

Soltaniyeh is an easy trip from Tehran on the way to Ardabil or Tebriz. Entrance fee was 200,000 rials (6 usd). Inside there are repairs ladders and small array of repairs works. It's possible to climb to the second level and walk around in the inside gallery and than go upstairs to outside circle. There are remains of some very fine tilework on some ceilings. However the building itself is a bit dilapidated. There are many cracks everywere, a thing you probably should expect from 700-old building. Some cracks are covered with simple patches and some with laser ones, which record speed of wall movement. Unfortunately thus impressive dome is substantially the only witness of once very prosperous and bustling trading city.

I just came back from Iran. My first stop to the western part of the country was at Soltaniyeh. Words can't express the beauty and delicacy of this massive structure. It sits in total harmony with it's surroundings. The blue tiles against the nutural brown bricks work wonderful patterns. Yet, funds are lacking and the resstoration of this building should have been finished years ago. Upon our arrival, a celebration was underway as Soltaniyeh was added to Unesco's World Heritage List. The governor of Zanjan was visiting the site, and we were given a nice bowl of "Aash" or thick Persian soup. Don't miss this place. Not too far from Tehran, and on the way to the city of Zanjan.