Pythagoreion and Heraion of Samos

This WHS on the island of Samos is not visited much by our community: it stands at #834 out of 1154, so it’s in the lower 30%. It also has by far the lowest rating of the Greek WHS. Still, Samos sees more than enough tourists as it is a charter flight destination, and it is even easily accessible from the Turkish coast (Kusadasi) on a day trip by boat.

The site has 2 locations, of which the Heraion (the Hera temple just beyond the airport) is the easiest one to distinguish, even from the air when flying in. Pythagoreion is a whole different story. I studied the map hard for what the core zone entails, and I think it is what is covered by a pinkish blob. That would leave out the harbour of Pythagorio and the excavated part of town next to the archaeological museum, and focus on the remains at Kastro hill such as the Tunnel of Eupalinos. Its location indicated on the UNESCO website, smack in the middle of the modern town, must be wrong.

My first day on Samos was a Tuesday when all its archaeological sites and museums are closed. I, therefore, did a pleasant 6km circular walk in the Pythagorio area that I found on the AllTrails app. Along the way I came across many remains of the ancient city, one even more dilapidated and overgrown than the other. I saw the theatre, an old villa, the market, the sports field, …

I stayed for 3 nights in Pythagoreio start of December 2021. The weather was rather unstable. I walked the 6 kilometers from Pythagoreio to The Heraion along the sea. The road runs along the back of the airport and is very quiet, later there is a bicycle track all the way to The Heraion which is more pleasant to walk than the pebble beach.

Entrance in winter is 3€ (€6 in summer) and I was accompanied by three kind stray dogs on my visit. There is not so much left but the explanations are good and with some attention the stones started to 'live'. There is just one pillar standing but to imagine the full temple consisted of 155 columns twice as high as the current one, one could imagine the awe Herodotus must have felt when he first saw this temple.

I got soaked on the way back and after changing clothes I went to the archeology museum in Pythagoreio, just a few hundred meters from my apartment. It is a modern museum (2005), full with objects found in Pythagoreio, and the exhibitions are well organized. Part of the museum are open air excavations with the remains of the Roman settlement and the start of the Sacred Way which led all the way to The Heraion. Even walking back from the museum for a few hunderd meters, I got soaked again and got wet shoes from wading through the water running through the streets. But of course, …

The Pythagoreion is named for the mathematician Pythagorous, whose birthplace is nearby. Other remains inbcluse the castle and Temple of Thermes, the Spiliani Monastery and the Eupalinos Tunnel (currently closed for restoration).

The Heraion is named for a Temple dedicated to Hera, wife of Zeus. However this has since been overlaid by other Greek, Roman and Christian constructions, none of which appeared readily identifiable.

I visited Samos in August 03 with my wife and 7 year old son. Samos in general is a particularly welcoming island; the people are warm and friendly and not jaded overmuch by tourism. It is, in general a 'quiet' island, avoiding the youthful excessess currently occurring on Rhodes.

This is a great island for families, especially those who like to experience breathtaking mountain scenery, beautiful bays, olive and pine groves, magnificent honey and of course, the renowned Samian wine.

The site of Hera's temple, just outside of Pythagoreion and a kilometre from the coastal resort of Iraion (brimming with delightful Tavernas along the waterfront) is quite stunning. The ruins are particularly ruined! Only one column survives (and I believe that was re-erected at some previous point) but the size and grandeur of the place are unmistakeable.

Open on Sunday and throughout the week, you will pay 8 euros at current prices for the priviledge of entering (about £ 5.60 sterling) which is a bit pricey for a family, but it is worth the wander around the stones. Every so often a holiday plane roars above taking you back to the 21st Century. You can grab a good photo or two through the railings if you dont want to pay the entrance fee. Take water and refreshments with you - none are to be had on site.

Although a spectacular area, I felt there were others more so on other islands and in particular on the mainland. However, if your …