Pyrénées - Mont Perdu

This report has to do with the French side. The main place to visit is Gavarnie, the site of one of the three "Cirques" in the area. 

In visiting a WHS I don't think I have experienced so many "twists" as I did with this Pyrenees WHS. 

When I was planning a trip to finish mainland France in winter 2019-2020 (just before the pandemic), I realized that it was better to visit all national / nature park-related WHS in France / Andorra in summer, not only because you can see more, but because public transportation is more frequent. So I postponed my visit to this Pyrenees WHS until some summer later.

Then, when I was planning such trip to visit this and other French / Andorra WHSs in summer 2022, I came across the following statement on the top page of the Gavarnie-Gedre Ski Resort: "In winter, near the Cirque de Gavarnie, discover a ski area ... in the heart of a UNESCO World Heritage Site!"

Gavarnie-Gadre Ski Resort

Pardon??? In the heart? You mean in the core zone? It can't be true! (I had in my mind the Bansko Ski Resort at the Pirin National Park WHS in Bulgaria where the ski area lies within the buffer zone surrounded the the core zone.) Upon my careful inspection of the WHS map, however, I concluded that at least one of the ski lift stations was within the core zone. I was fascinated by the idea …

Unlike the previous reviewers, I visited the French part of the World Heritage Site, to be more precise the Cirque de Gavarnie. The Cirque is a deep, amphitheatre like valley formed by glaciers, with steep, very high cliffs (the mountains rise up to 1500 meters above the valley floor). It is also home to one of the highest waterfalls in Europe.

I visited the Cirque in July 2020 on a day trip. I stayed overnight in Lourdes and drove by car to the village of Gavarnie (takes about an hour). You are not allowed to enter the village center by car, but there is paid parking near it. I think, the earlier you arrive, the better. In high season, there is the real possibility of traffic jam on the small roads leading to the village. And when I arrived around 10 a.m. the parking was already quite full, too.

Even from the village - provided there are no clouds - you have spectacular views of the Cirque. After an easy hike on dirt roads (duration about one hour), I reached the restaurant at the entrance of the Cirque. From there, you can take several trails. I decided against the path to the waterfall and instead crossed the river and walked past sheep to a snow field at the foot of the rock walls. Much more challenging routes (including through the cliffs up to the Breche de Roland pass) are also available for the more ambitious hikers. But I …

Like all other reviewers until now, I approached this WHS from the Spanish side through Ordesa National Park. The town of Torla is an easy and comfortable access point. At 7.30 a.m. I took one of the first shuttle buses of the day into the park. There were 10 other hikers aboard, certainly not a lot for a Saturday in July. The Mont Perdu WHS apparently sees more than 2 million visitors yearly (Spanish and French totals combined), which is hard to believe given its low-key appearance.

I had been in doubt about which hike to do: the longer trail along the ridge (Senda de los Cazadores), or the shorter one through the valley. My experiences from a few days before in the Madriu Valley made me choose the shorter trail: I am not fond of climbing a lot or getting soaking wet due to a surprise rain shower. The valley hike is still 17km long and takes 5 to 6 hours. Both trails end at the Cola de Caballo waterfall.

The valley hike has three distinct parts. It starts with an uphill slug through a forest, not the most interesting stretch and it took me 1.5 hours. Things brighten up a lot when you’re in the open at last: the path next to the river is lovely. I especially liked all the flowers in bloom, their colours and their smell. After a series of steep waterfalls, you’ll reach the alpine plateau with views of Mont Perdu. It …

In May 2014, we spent three days in the National Park Ordesa y Monte Perdido, the Spanish part of this transnational WHS. Beside the Monte Perdido summit the inscribed area comprises four deep valleys that are accessible to hikers: Ordesa, Añisclo, Escuain, and Pineta. We went for two hiking tours in the Valle de Ordesa and one in the Canyon de Añisclo .

There are hardly any roads in the National Park, one of the few is the access road (HU-631) to the Añisclo valley from Escalona. The ride on this very narrow and winding road was exciting and offered wonderful views into the deep gorge. After 12 km we reached the parking lot at the Ermita de San Urbez. The Añisclo valley is a very narrow canyon between steep, almost vertical cliffs. The hiking trail runs continuously uphill along the Bellos river and through forest and lush vegetation. It is easy to walk, there are only a few steep sections. After about 3.5 hours we reached the Fonblanca waterfall and returned on the same route to the parking lot. We enjoyed very much our hike through this striking landscape, but the Valle de Ordesa was even more impressive.

The starting point for tours in the Valle de Ordesa is the picturesque village of Torla. From there it is only 5 kilometres to the parking lot Pradera de Ordesa (at 1350 metres altitude) where several hiking trails start. Ordesa is very popular with hikers and climbers, the parking lot is …

I visited this WHS in May 2014. I spent 3 days hiking in the Ordesa Valley and I saw Mount Perdu both from strenuous uphill trails like Faja de Pelay at high altitude (not suitable for those who don't have a head for heights) as well as from the easy trail in the valley with lovely cascades, streams and waterfalls. I must say that the most picturesque hike is indeed the easy hike by the Rio Arazas which takes about 7-9 hours if you stop for lunch and to take lots of photos. If you start early at around 7am you will beat the crowds and it really is a very enjoyable trek with rainbows forming early in the morning over the many cascades and waterfalls. The UNESCO plaque is immediately visible after a few minutes of hiking. The Cola de Caballo waterfall is beautiful but you should arrive early there as it's also the place where everyone stops to have lunch. I was surprised that I didn't have to pay an entrance ticket of any sort. All you need there are good hiking shoes and an empty bottle to fill with pure water from the gushing streams. During 3 days of hiking I spotted the rare Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture) amongst different birds of prey and scavengers as well as smaller birds. I was lucky to spot a couple of marmots and 2 big castors near Cola de Caballo and I also enjoyed the varied mountain flora with different kinds …

WHS-collectors should do this beautiful hike first: from the eastern end of the Pradera de Ordesa, cross Río Arazas and climb steeply up through the woods on the valley's south side. This hardest part, called "Senda de los Cazadores" (Hunter's Path), in which you ascend 600m, takes an hour. Then it's level or downhill all the way along the high Faja de Pelay path to the 'Circo de Soaso', a rocky balcony whose centrepiece is the Cola de Caballo (Horsetail) waterfall. Return by the easy path along the bottom of the valley, passing through several waterfalls. This circuit takes 7 hours, so bring those picnic sandwiches and mineral water. (Summer 2010)

The scenery in the Ordesa Valley I found reminiscent of that of Yosemite: high rock walls with numerous waterfalls. I reached the park by travelling by bus from Sabananigo (on the Jaca to Zaragoza rail line) to the attractive village of Torla. After paying the 4.50 euros to enter the Ordesa National Park I boarded the free bus that stopped first at the visitor centre at the entrance to the park, then at the Pradera car park inside the park. This is the starting point for a number of walking tracks around the park. By following the Rio Arazas to the WHS plaque I reached the view of Mount Perdido.