Old Town of Lijiang

The previous reviews seem to focus on the components of Dayan Old Town and the Heilongtan Pool, both of which are located in the centre of Lijiang. I visited neither but had the opportunity to see Shuhe Old Town, a more distant part of the site. As a whole, it appeared to me as one of the many tourist-oriented Chinese old towns that are commercialized to such a degree that the authenticity becomes questionable. However, some things stood out to me about Shuhe specifically. Obviously, as the town represents the Naxi minority, its architecture is a bit different (I especially enjoyed the roofs). Many flowering and fruiting trees and bushes are planted throughout the town, making the walk enjoyable despite possible crowds. The urban layout of the streets and canals is definitely preserved. The use of Naxi pictograms on the labels is also very interesting. I can also confirm that Els’s recommendation of local food still holds true (PS: the cheese is called rubing and it is definitely worth trying).

And now we get to the more negative section. As I already said, the entire town is a continuous commercial zone. Every building is a shop or a restaurant, so don’t expect any significant authentic sections in the interiors and lower portions of the majority of the buildings. Although most (if not all) buildings in the area are not taller than two floors, they often have new modifications (windows, extensions, etc.) that may visually clash with the overall look of the structures, though generally not too much. In the end, did I enjoy the site? Somewhat. Is there OUV? Perhaps, but Shuhe didn’t feel that special to me. My impression from other reviews and photos of the central part of Lijiang is that it does not differ significantly from Shuhe (although it does seem to have more unique structures). And yet the site tends to receive fairly high ratings. Maybe the atmosphere of central Lijiang is different, or there’s something else I’m missing that I didn’t experience in Shuhe. So, take this rating with a grain of salt as it is based on a combination of my experience of this relatively remote portion of the site and my understanding of the “main” part that I didn’t personally see.

Memories are fickle beasts.  When I look at my photos from my 2019 trip to Lijiang, I see that it was a beautiful city with intriguing narrow water channels and narrower streets.  However, what I remember - at least on an emotional level - is that Lijiang was an old town that once had a soul, but it is now a fiction, a mere pretty setting for a sanitized version of Chinese history.  Lijiang is not a city; it is a souvenir shop.  

There are other cities in the world that long ago pushed out their residents and now exist almost exclusively for tourists.  Venice and Cesky Krumlov being just two examples of cities that are no longer alive.  However, even if Venice and Cesky Krumlov have no real residents left, they still have something authentic about them, e.g., the buildings.  And their shops are not so bizarrely identical.  I am convinced that I got lost in Lijiang, less due to its winding maze of streets, but more due to the fact that the shops seem to repeat itself on a loop: Jade store, scarf store, drum store, dongba paper store, tea store, jade store, scarf store, drum store, dongba paper store, tea store.  

What is heartbreaking about Lijiang is that the death of its authenticity was not inevitable but engineered.  In his informative article "Why Lijiang deserved its World Heritage status — and what happened next", Jim Goodman explains that after the 1996 earthquake and the UNESCO World Heritage Site designation: 

"It turned out the authorities had their own idea of what a Heritage Site should look like. That view didn't stress preservation so much as transformation. Apparently they thought that recognition as a Heritage Site gave them the right, even the duty, to recreate Dayan [Old Town of Lijiang] as an idealized version of itself... a policy that eventually resulted in the removal of all the Naxi living in the Naxi old town...

The business assault next targeted the undamaged houses, aiming to turn these into commercial establishments as well. Naxi home owners initially resisted, especially the older generation, but already tourists from all over China were flooding Lijiang... Within a few years every family had agreed to move out and every old building in Dayan had been torn down and rebuilt as a guesthouse, restaurant or souvenir shop. They all employed traditional architecture, but one far fancier than the original houses. The only parts of Dayan left intact and authentic were the Old Stone Bridge and the paving stones."

To be fair to Lijiang, when I visited it in 2019, there were pockets where remnants of local life or a sense of authenticity existed.  Some people still washed their clothes and vegetables in the wells/pools, and the Zhongyi Market (photo) had retained its vibrancy.  Indeed, Lijiang was an interesting place, and there were alleyways in which you can actually escape the hyper-consumerism.  The reason that I am not more kind in my recollection is likely because I had such a high expectation of it. I was so incredibly excited to experience Lijiang that I had planned my trip to China around it, expecting to be transported to a place where time stood still.  Unfortunately, Lijiang was not the memorable experience that I had dearly hoped for.  However, because I planned my trip around Lijiang, I did hike the Tiger Leaping Gorge, which unexpectedly did become the memorable experience that I sought.

For its fictional beauty, I give Lijiang three stars.

Lijiang is a must-see for any China trip, and of course there is plenty to do while you are coming to Yunnan even from Lijiang itself. Most people do a Dali -> Lijiang -> Shangrila tour and maaaybe, like me, a sidetrip to Lugu Lake which nowadays also has an airport which may save some time. There is also a saying that Lijiang is a place to hookup for young Chinese because pretty much the entire center of old town is a huge bar and clubbing area where the alcohol, holiday spirit and some sort of vibe seems to mark the visitors with a "what stays in Vegas" attitude.

Lijiang is beautiful and has lots of features. Waterways, stone bridges, old houses one both side of the cobble streets, red lanterns, temples, multi-level layers that seem to go on forever plus surrounded by mountains. Being a major tourist destination it's also trying hard to keep clean and tidy. The water system is helping there and the money pouring in keeps everyone busy to stay traditional as much as they can so you will definitely not find skyscrapers or even tall buildings anywhere near the city center (my visit has been years ago but I'm sure not much changed in the core area).

Overall I spent 3 days in Lijiang mainly because of my Lugu sidetrip so I would overall think 2 are enough if you just want to enjoy and soak up the town. It's become quite monetary about running bars in oldtown which is a negative aspect but you can still enjoy the town during the day and get a glimpse of the nightime before it gets loud and raunchy.

Lijiang, a town in northwestern Yunnan with its beautiful culture of Naxi people, unique old wooden houses along the canals, picturesque gardens and breathtaking surroundings, is truly one of a real gem of this region but also maybe one of the worst examples of tourism industry development in China. Lijiang has two faces, in daytime; the Black Dragon Pool Garden is the place to see, its Five Phoenix Hall in the middle of the pool with the Jade Dragon Mountain as the background, is one of the iconic views of Southern China. While the town is beautiful with Naxi architecture which has some details different from mainstream Chinese and along the street is full of interesting handicraft shops, and don't forget to go to the top of the hill behind the town for absolutely gorgeous view.

After sunset, Lijiang is brightly lit with red lanterns and spotlights, and I have to admit that Lijiang by night is very pretty; however, the town is full of clubs and bars with really loud Chinese music and dancers, some show is traditional or modern, but some is quite dirty. Almost everywhere is quite chaotic and packed with diners and fun seekers, the scene that you never expected to see in UNESCO protected zone! In my opinion Lijiang is maybe one of the worst examples of tourism industry development in China, and from my observation, Lijiang by night has more tourists than in the daytime, sadly that they don't come to admire fascinating culture, but for fun in club's scene.

Although the authenticity of Lijiang is maybe lost forever as many parts of the town are already changed, the ancient buildings become souvenir shops, boutique hotels, restaurants, clubs and bars with Naxi cultural show for tourists, the town is still having some place to admire especially in the suburbs of the old town and the Black Dragon Pool Garden where local Naxi are living. All in all, Lijiang is a great place to visit at least to see how China sells minority culture for tourism.

We went there for 4 days - and ended-up staying for 2 weeks and that too was not enough. We LOVED IT. At some time in our life - we want to live there for as long as we can. Its beautiful, lovely, friendly and the weather is just perfect (most of the times). One of the best places we have ever visited in all my travels.

I have just returned from Lijiang (April 2009) and am still mesmorised. Like one of your other commentators, I could easily live there. No more hectic, crazy modern world.

Picturesque, haunting, friendly, warm -- I could go on forever. I shall certainly return.

Lijiang has to be one of the nicest small cities in China. It is true that there has been an increase in tourism there, but you can escape from the tourists easily enough by escaping down some of the backstreets (which are more interesting anyway). The architecture of the city is great and the Naxi people carry on with their lives just as they have been for centuries. You should absolutely trek Tiger Leaping Gorge, very near Lijiang. The trek runs through the gorge created by Yulongshueshan (5500+ meters) and offers great views of the Yangtze river at its wildest. It can be tackled by a moderately fit person in two days. In the Fall there is an explosion of spiders along the trail. We had to walk by (and sometimes under!) huge webs with dozens of beautiful orange and green spiders in them, which was a bit unnerving, but wonderful at the same time.

The winding cobblestoned streets in the old town are just waiting to be explored. you truly experience the magic at dusk, when the busloads of daytrippers with flag-bearing guides who clog up the narrow pathways during the day depart for their comfortable hotels in the new town. then, it is truly a pleasure to sit and watch the world passing by, next to the gurgling streams and shady walkways. i went there during summer, at the height of tourist season and could not get a single hotel accommodation. then a family asked me if i wanted to stay in their home for the night. it was very spartan, just a room in a noisy household, with the entire family sharing a squat toilet, but that was the place i really remembered from all the places i stayed in yunnan.

I was in Lijiang a few weeks ago. The Old Town square has become quite popular with lots of tourists, shops and restaurants with more Westerners than Chinese. But a few minutes away from the tourist filled spot, and the city is breath-takingly exquisite. Lijiang is very tranquil and a cool oasis away from the mad rush of commercialization and industrialization that is taking place throughout the rest of China. Lijiang is definitely a "must visit" before it gets swallowed by the growing commercialization of China.

I went to the Old Town Lijiang in November 2003. It was quite an experience, especially a warm and friendly comfort from local Naxi people.

When you see the city in the first minute, the over-crowded tourists might turn you down a little. Once you having stayed long enough, horsed round those cannals and bridges, and tryed Baba cake and local food, you will love this town.

I will travel back to Lijiang.

Lijiang is situated in the remarkable Yunnan province, in the Southwest of China. I went to Lijiang via a very long bus trip through the mountains. Nowadays, there even seems to be an airport.

The little city certainly deserves a stay of a few days from tourists that are interested in culture and history. The food also is recommendable: I still remember the baked cheese with sugar (?!!).