Israel

Old City of Jerusalem

WHS Score 4.37
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Votes for Old City of Jerusalem

2.5

  • Mirasworld

3.0

  • Christravelblog
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3.5

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4.0

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  • Assif
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4.5

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5.0

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The Old City of Jerusalem and its Walls have high religious value as a holy city for Judaism, Christianity and Islam.

Continuously inhabited since prehistory, the city has been shaped through time by succeeding civilizations such as the Jebusites, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. The area within the walls of the Old City holds over 200 historic monuments from all three monotheistic religions. The most important monument for the Jews is the Western Wall, for the Christians it is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and for the Muslims the Dome of the Rock.

Community Perspective: There are so many sites of religious and historic significance in this single walled square kilometer. Assif provides tips for visiting some of its more hidden treasures. Solivagant visited as early as 1964 and described the changes he witnessed 18 years later on a revisit. GabLabCebu has added a comprehensive overview of what you may expect as a tourist nowadays.

Site Info

Official Information
Full Name
Old City of Jerusalem and its Walls (Site proposed by Jordan) (ID: 148)
Country
Israel
Status
Inscribed 1981 Site history
History of Old City of Jerusalem
1980: Deferred
Committee decided a special approach was needed
1981: Inscribed
Inscribed
1982: In Danger
severe destruction followed by a rapid urbanization
2007: Reinforced Monitoring
In Danger
severe destruction followed by a rapid urbanization Since 1982
WHS Type
Cultural
Criteria
  • ii
  • iii
  • vi
Links
UNESCO
whc.unesco.org
All Links
UNESCO.org
Related Resources
News Article
  • May 13, 2024 theartnewspaper.com — Armenian heritage threatened by Jerusalem hotel plan
  • Feb. 19, 2020 bbc.com — Jerusalem: Jordan condemns Israeli Western Wall railway plan
  • Nov. 7, 2019 bbc.com — Jerusalem: Israel approves controversial Old City cable car plan
  • June 1, 2019 jpost.com — Church of the Holy Sepulchre plans for first renovations in generations
  • Nov. 30, 2017 independent.co.uk — Tomb believed to hold Jesus Christ much older than previously thought
  • Oct. 17, 2017 edition.cnn.com — Ancient Roman theater unearthed next to Jerusalem's Western Wall
  • Aug. 16, 2017 trtworld.com — Jerusalem Greek Orthodox leader slams Israel pro-settler ruling
  • July 25, 2017 timesofisrael.com — Cameras come down along with metal detectors at Temple Mount
  • May 3, 2017 aljazeera.com — UNESCO passes Jerusalem resolution critical of Israel
  • March 23, 2017 news.nationalgeographic.com — Tomb of Christ at Risk of 'Catastrophic' Collapse
  • Oct. 30, 2016 news.nationalgeographic.com — Christ's Burial Place Exposed for First Time in Centuries
  • Oct. 14, 2016 washingtonpost.com — Israeli leaders condemn UNESCO resolution on Jerusalem holy site
  • April 5, 2016 jpost.com — Prominent archaeologist claims Western Wall construction will cause irreparable damage
  • March 24, 2016 imemc.org — Israeli Regional Construction Committee Approves “Kedem” Colonialist Project In Jerusalem
  • March 26, 2015 timesofisrael.com — Jerusalem reboots controversial cable car plan
  • Jan. 22, 2015 independent.co.uk — Jesus trial site 'found': Herod's Palace remains discovered near Tower of David in Jerusalem
  • Jan. 3, 2014 haaretz.com — Legal challenges mounted against planned visitor center in East Jerusalem
  • Aug. 6, 2013 news.nationalgeographic.com — Largest Crusader hospital in the Middle East will soon be open to the public
  • May 21, 2013 telegraph.co.uk — Israel cancels Unesco visit
  • April 24, 2013 en.ammonnews.net — Israel accepts a UNESCO status mission for the Old City of Jerusalem
  • Nov. 5, 2012 bbc.co.uk — Church of the Holy Sepulchre in row over water bill
  • Dec. 26, 2011 google.com — Ancient seal found in Jerusalem linked to ritual
  • Dec. 12, 2011 heraldsun.com.au — Israel closes access ramp to Al-Aqsa mosque
  • Nov. 9, 2008 haaretz.com — Fighting erupted between Armenian and Greek Orthodox monks at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher
  • Aug. 4, 2008 haaretz.com — Unesco pleads to limit the archeological activity at the Mughrabim Ascent exclusively to work for the reconstruction and stabilization of the site and not to adapt it for new uses

Community Information

  • Community Category
  • Religious structure: Christian
  • Urban landscape: Urban continuity
Travel Information
Discriminatory Entry Policies
Discriminatory Entry Policies
Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque - Muslims only
Recent Connections
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Connections of Old City of Jerusalem
Individual People
  • Gertrude Bell
    Photo taken December 1899
  • Viscount Edmund Allenby
    The Ottoman governor of Jerusalem surrendered to Allenby's forces on Dec 9 2017. "In deliberate contrast to the perceived arrogance of the Kaiser's entry into Jerusalem on horseback in 1898, Allenby dismounted and together with his officers, entered the city on foot through the Jaffa Gate out of respect for the status of Jerusalem as the Holy City important to Judaisim, Christianity and Islam" (Wiki)
  • Pompey the Great
    Captured by Pompey in 63BC. After a 2 month siege in which the northern walls were breached, Pompey and his army entered the Temple itself. See "Wars of the Jews" by Flavius Josephus (chapter 7)

    See www.sacred-texts.com

  • Ibn Battuta
  • Marco Polo
    He visited to pick up the holy oil following Kublai Khan's request to his father Niccolo on his own earlier trip
  • Baibars
    Baibars' emblem at the Lion's Gate
  • Mapped or Illustrated by Blaeu
    On top frieze of "Appendix Theatri A.Ortelii Et Atlantis G. Mercatoris"(1631 but map dates to 1617).

    See luna.folger.edu

  • Helen of Constantinople
    "Discovered" the "exact" site of Jesus's tomb and ordered the pulling down of a Temple to Venus which had been built there and its replacement by the "Church of the Holy Sepulchre"
  • Pausanias
    Before visiting Greece, he had been to Antioch, Joppa, and Jerusalem, and to the banks of the River Jordan. (wiki)
  • Emperor Hadrian
    Emperor Hadrian visited the, then ruined, Jerusalem in 129 AD
  • Frederick II
    Came there in the 6th Crusade
  • Elias Burton Holmes
  • King Solomon
    The Temple Mount. The site, according to Biblical tradition, of the first Temple of the Jews at Jerusalem and built by Solomon
  • General Gordon
    Visited Palestine for a year in 1882-3. The authenticity of the "Church of the Holy Sepulchre" as the traditional location of the burial and resurrection of Christ was being questioned by a number of scholars and Gordon concluded that a tomb outside the Walls (and outside the inscribed site) was the true tomb. The place became known as "Gordon's Calvary" and "The Garden Tomb". It remains a place of pilgrimage as an altrnative to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre particuarly among Protestants.

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Frederick Barbarossa
    Frederick participated in the Second Crusade and visited Jerusalem in 1148 with Emperor Conrad III, where he "was impressed by the charitable works of the Knights Hospitaller". (Wikipedia)

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Saladin
    Besieged 1187
  • Galla Placidia
    She restored the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Geography
Trivia
History
  • Sieges and Battles
    Assyrians 721BC (lifted), Romans 70AD, 1st Crusaders 1099, Saladin 1187
  • Thomas Cook Round the World tour 1872-1873
    Mar 1873 "The city of Jerusalem continues to expand in a westerly direction. The talk of a railway from Jaffa to Jerusalem is again revived but noone could tell me who was going to construct it or how the funds were to be realized"
  • Displayed on the Madaba Map
    The mosaic clearly shows a number of significant structures in the Old City of Jerusalem: the Damascus Gate, the Lions' Gate, the Golden Gate, the Zion Gate, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the New Church of the Theotokos, the Tower of David and the Cardo Maximus. (wiki)
  • Mamluk Sultanate
    Al Aqsa Mosque ("added two naves and two gates to the mosque's eastern side") and several structures in the Muslim Quarter, like the Markte of the Cotton Workers
  • Oldest continuously inhabited cities
    Jerusalem, 2800 BC
  • Babylonian Empire
    King Nebuchadnezzar II led military campaigns against the Kingdom of Judah, particularly the Babylonian siege of Jerusalem in 587 BC, which resulted in the destruction of Solomon's Temple and the subsequent Babylonian captivity. (wiki)

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Pisan colonies
  • Umayyad Caliphate
    Built the Dome of the Rock and rebuilt the Al-Aqsa Mosque
  • Gypsies
    A group of 5000 Dom "gypsies" has lived in East Jerusalem for the past 800 years. They are considered to have departed from the Indian subcontinent earlier than the Romani people
  • Ottoman Empire
    "In 1516, Jerusalem was taken over by the Ottoman Empire along with all of Greater Syria and enjoyed a period of renewal and peace under Suleiman the Magnificent, including the construction of the walls, which define until today what is now known as the Old City of Jerusalem." (wiki)

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Buried treasures
    264 golden coins from Heraclius' time discovered in 2008
  • Habsburgs (Austrian)
    Austrian Hospice, built as a pilgrim house and visited in 1869 by Emperor Franz Joseph I
  • The Crusades
    Jerusalem was the ultimate goal of the Crusaders, because of its immense religious significance for Christianity. it was captured by Crusaders in July 1099.

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Located in a Former Capital
    Kingdom of Jerusalem (1099-1187)
  • Byzantine Empire and Civilization
    Burial remains from the Byzantine period are exclusively Christian, suggesting that the population of Jerusalem in Byzantine times probably consisted only of Christians. In the 5th century, the eastern continuation of the Roman Empire, ruled from the recently renamed Constantinople, maintained control of the city. (wiki)
  • Eunuchs
    Jerulsalem's Dome of the rock was guarded by black eunuchs (source: Eunuchs and Castrati: A Cultural History)
  • Knights Hospitaller
    Founded there in 1080 as a Christian hospital (by Amalfatians). Became a religious/military order during the First Crusade in 1099 charged with "care and defense of the Holy Land"
  • Ancient Roman colonies
    Colonia Aelia Capitolina
  • Amarna Letters
  • Knights Templar
    Founded there in 1119 by 2 veterans of the first Crusade. The Order used the Al Aqsa Mosque on Temple Mount as HQ and hence took the name "Poor Knights of Christ and the Temple of Solomon", or "Templar" knights. Initially the Order had few financial resources and consisted of only around 9 knights. Their emblem was of two knights riding on a single horse, emphasizing the Order's poverty. This rapidly changed however and, by 1129, it had become a favoured charity throughout Christendom. It ran into hositility for its wealth, power and ambition. It was disbanded by the Pope in 1307 and authority given for its assets to be seized by monarchs across Europe.
Architecture
Damaged
World Heritage Process
Religion and Belief
Human Activity
  • Stone Quarries
    Zedekiah's Cave

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Petrosomatoglyphs
    Foundation Stone on the Dome of the Rock has "marks" of the footprint of Mohammed (made as he stepped upon it to mount his horse Barak when commencing his ride to Paradise), Barak's Hoofprint and the hand/finger print of Gabriel (who was holding back the rock as it tried to follow Mohammed).

    See www.jstor.org

  • Historical Financial Institutions
    Knights Templar HQ for its Euro wide financial system. "Since the monks themselves were sworn to poverty, but had the strength of a large and trusted international infrastructure behind them, nobles would occasionally use them as a kind of bank or power of attorney."

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Historical Graffiti
    Crusader graffiti in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
  • Irrigation and drainage
    Hizkia reservoir (drinking water supply)
Constructions
  • Tunnels
    The Western (Wailing) Wall Tunnel; and also "Hezekiah's Tunnel, or the Siloam Tunnel is a tunnel that was dug underneath the Ophel in Jerusalem about 701 BC during the reign of Hezekiah. It was probably a widening of a pre-existing cave and is mentioned in the Bible."
  • Monumental Monoliths
    The 'Western Stone' which forms part of the lower portion of the Western wall. It is 13.6 meters (44.6 feet) long, 3 metres (9.8 feet) high and has an estimated width of 3.3 meters (10.8 feet). It weighs 517 tonnes.
  • Horse Stables
    Solomon's Stables
  • Martyrium
    Church of the Holy Sepulchre & Dome of the Rock

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Monumental Fountains
    Ornamental fountain (19th century) at the Muristan

    See farm2.static.flickr.com

  • Prison
    The area surrounding the Cotton Market was turned into a prison by the Turks during WWI.
  • Baths
    Two bath houses at the Cotton Market (inc. Hammam El-Ayn)

    See www.bbc.com

  • Walled cities
  • Theatres and Opera Houses
    Remains of Ancient Roman theater

    See www.haaretz.com

  • Gates depicting Lions
    Lions' Gate in the Old City Walls (1517). Near the gate?s crest are four figures of "lions" after which the gate is named (they actually depict panthers).
  • Cemeteries
    Armenian cemetery in the Armenian Quarter
  • Asklepieion
    Pool of Bethesda

    See en.wikipedia.org

  • Frontier walls
    The wall surrounding the Old Town of Jerusalem partially served as the border between Israel and Jordan in 1948-1967
  • Cisterns
    The Herodian road which ran alongside the Temple Mount, includes ancient cisterns
  • Hospitals
    Historical hospital at the Muristan
  • Latrines
    Archaeological park - Roman Latrinae
  • Mausolea
    Turbat Turakan Hatun

    See he.wikipedia.org

  • Bazaars and Market Halls
    Cotton Market, the Cardo
WHS on Other Lists
Timeline
WHS Hotspots
Science and Technology
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News
theartnewspaper.com 05/13/2024
Armenian heritage threatened by Je…
bbc.com 02/19/2020
Jerusalem: Jordan condemns Israeli…
bbc.com 11/07/2019
Jerusalem: Israel approves controv…
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Community Reviews

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First published: 11/01/20.

Ilya Burlak

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Ilya Burlak

I spent about a day and a half in Jerusalem’s Old City on my trip to Israel in November 2019. That appears to be enough to see all of the major points of interest, both in terms of the inscribed WHS and the tentative extension; although in a city with such wealth of historical context, you will feel like you rushed through some of the sights no matter how much time you give yourself.

The very brief Jerusalem WH inscription is all about its significance to the three main monotheistic religions, and being an adherent of one is likely to be an important ingredient for a true spiritual connection to the city. Religious people will surely be awed by being so near the sacred sights, much more so than a secular visitor will ever be.

That secular visitor, nonetheless, will at a minimum find the trio of sights listed on the inscription rather impressive. The Church of Holy Sepulcre is tremendous, the Wailing Wall is sober and full of poignancy, and the Dome of the Rock is simply mindblowingly beautiful. Getting to the Temple Mount requires an extra effort; non-Muslims can enter only as tourists and only at limited times during the day; they are also prohibited entry to the interiors of the buildings in the compound. The visiting hours limitation means that a wait in line of upward of 45 minutes is practically unavoidable. And entirely worth it - the edifice is just stupendous when seen up …

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First published: 02/11/19.

Gablabcebu

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by GabLabCebu

WHS#67

Jerusalem is the holiest city in the world. It's crazy how all of these different religions happen to have some of their holiest sites, among other impressive sites of great historic significance, in this single square kilometer. Indeed, this single walled square kilometer is so full of things to see that it feels endless to explore, and it kind of is. I spent a whole day exploring the old city in May 2018, and I felt like I hadn't even scratched the surface. Starting from and ending at the famous Jaffa Gate, I went in a loop through the Armenian Quarter, the Jewish Quarter, the Muslim Quarter, and finally, the Christian Quarter. Each quarter has something interesting to offer, though I didn't necessarily experience what I might've expected from their names. At the end of the day, the experience of Jerusalem leaves feet tired, minds blown, and souls filled.

The first striking thing about Jerusalem is easily the walls. Yes, the walls included on its official WHS title. It's an impressive continuous stretch of centuries-old walls. They look very Norman castle-inspired with their little rectangular indentations on top and curved arch portals, but Islamic patterns and Arabic inscriptions can be observed too, owing to Jerusalem's history under various cultural influences, especially that of the Ottomans. The buildings within the city are also quite Ottoman, and they look quite similar to other old cities in the region, like Safed, Jaffa, Acre, and Nablus. Don't be fooled, though, the …

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First published: 19/02/17.

Jay T

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Jay T

O Jerusalem -- a city revered and fought over through the centuries by armies from three faiths, and which struggles today to find peace and stability amongst its diverse residents. This is a holy city, a city of pilgrimage, and it was one I had longed to visit since I was young. I finally had my opportunity in February 2015, and it was all I hoped it would be. As I think back on it now, I remember Jerusalem in a series of vignettes. An Orthodox Jew with a long grey beard praying as he walked down a narrow staircase in the Old City. Two older Arab men playing chess in front of the Dome of the Rock, ignoring background vocal protests. Crowds of pilgrims lined up inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a building maintained by several denominations. Israeli soldiers carrying supplies out through the Zion Gate. The views of the old city from the Mount of Olives after a storm. The quiet, reflective sites of the Garden of Gethsemane and the Garden Tomb, the latter frequented by Protestants. The lively underground markets in the well-preserved Roman Cardo. The well-secured and sobering Wailing Wall. There is so much to see in Jerusalem, and I wish I'd had more than two days, but I am glad for the time I had, and would love to return.

Logistics: The Old City of Jerusalem is easy to walk around; however, there are security checkpoints, and some sites may temporarily close depending …

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First published: 07/09/12.

Clyde

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Clyde

So many historical and religious sites to visit but my thoughts and prayers went to those who are really suffering because of the disgraceful concrete walls in the West Bank and Gaza Strip. I promised myself I won't be visiting these WHS again before these wall are demolished once and for all.

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First published: 17/07/12.

Eric Lurio

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Solivagant

Jerusalem is too damn holy for it’s own good. I’m not saying everyone who lives there is nuts, that’s obviously not the case, but it just seems that way. But then, I mostly hung out with tourists. They’re definitely nuts.

When I was last there a short time ago, I stayed in a youth hostel near the Jaffa Gate, and the first person I met after the people at the reception desk was a guy who claimed to be Jesus Christ. I later learned that he wasn’t the first guest that month to have made that claim. But one has to expect that sort of thing.

It’s called “Jerusalem syndrome.” You think you’re God, or Jesus or Moses or angels are telling you to convert the Catholics to Christianity or something like that.

There are two Jerusalems: the first is the capitol of Israel. This isn’t a particularly interesting place. Some decent bars and restaurants, and aside from the big museums, there’s nothing really there, but then for the most part nobody goes to see this Jerusalem, there’s no reason to unless you’re a lobbyist or a film fan. Everybody comes to see the other one, that place where religion lives. Holyland-land.

Holyland-land, or more properly, the Old City is not really a city at all, but a tiny walled village about one kilometer square. Going all the way around the city walls will take no more than half an hour at most, and within one will find just souvenir …

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First published: 25/09/10.

Anonymous

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Solivagant

I visited and indeed lived and worked in Israel off and on between 1996 and 2000. The one thing I have always recommended to those going to Israel is to spend a few days walking around the Old City. Take in the smells, sights and sounds as you wander around, particularly the busy Arab Quarter. One one of caution and it's a personal view but the "rejuvenated" Jewish quarter has, in my opinion, lost much of its character and is far too sanitised in comparison with the other parts.

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First published: 21/10/08.

Assif

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Solivagant

The Old City of Jerusalem is truly exceptional, not only for its history and architecture, but also (and for me mainly) for its unique mixture of people incomparable to anywhere elso in the world. Numerous Jewish, Christian and Muslim groups have their share in Jerusalem. The number of languages you hear on the street is puzzling (exclduing those spoken by tourists). Among the tradtional inhabitants are Palestinians, Jews, Gypsies, African Muslims from Sudan and Chad, Armenians and Greeks.

Visiting Jerusalem is not a simple matter since many of its attractions are hidden and not well adopted for tourism.

An interesting fact about Jerusalem's sacral monuments is that most of them are surprisingly quite new. Within its walls there are as far as I know only four old mosques (Al Aqsa, Dome of the Rock, Umar and the Tankasiyya Madrasa), four old churches (The Holy Sepulcher, Armenian Cathedral, Syriac church and St. Anna) and two old synagogues (Ramban and Karaite Synagogue). The rest is mostly from the time 1850-1930, which is remarkable for such an old city. All of these sacral buidlings are possible to visit with the exception of Umar. Many of the secular houses, however, are much older (a fine example is the Tunshuq Palace).

The Armenian Cathedral has very limited visiting times (15-15.30 daily). In order to enter the Ramban synagogue you more or less need to pretend you are about to pray there but then you can just take a fast glimpse of the building and disappear. …

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First published: 28/07/08.

Dab

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by DAB

Jerusalem is amazing. superb, fantastic, incredible. none of these words accurately describe just how great Jerusalem is. one of the most important cities on the planet (holy to three religions), Jerusalem is also 3500 years old. the walls that currently encircle Jerusalem were built in the time of the ottoman turks; however, there has been a wall around Jerusalem since it began. as well as the old city; which is a maze of narrow alleys, with overhead arches, and old beautifully, stone buildings mostly in , what i believe is, Romanesque and Islamic styles, there are a wealth of archaeological sites around Jerusalem's old city. i visited the city of David, one of the oldest parts of the Jerusalem. this is a great archaeological site, and very interesting, it where King David built his city, 3000 years ago. pillars, houses, stairs; are the remains which one will find here.

although many people consider Jerusalem unsafe due to terrorists, as long as you don't take the bus, you will probably be fine. The terrorists generally don't target tourists.

in conclusion Jerusalem is worth a journey of a thousand miles, or more. it is the greatest site in Israel, and an absolute, no excuses, must see when you are in that country.

NOTE: i recommend the bagels and spice that are sold everywhere by street vendors it Jerusalem. they area very tasty snack.

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First published: 04/06/06.

Christer Sundberg

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Christer Sundberg

The magnificent Jerusalem - for many years the centre point of the world, and for many people it still is. As a town, equally important for the Christians, Muslims and Jews it is actually a miracle that it still stands, despite its history of destruction and violence and different leaderships throughout its history.

To those just remotely interested in history and religion it must be mine and any other traveller’s strongest recommendation to take your time with this city. Allow at least a week to visit the different parts of the old town - the Christian, Jewish and Muslim areas as well as the neighbouring areas, Mount Zion and Mount of Olives as well as the modern town of Jerusalem. There is so much to see and one must also allow time to just wonder around the Old Town with it’s bazaars, shops, cafés and restaurants.

It its also worth mentioning that the layout of Jerusalem is not a walk in the park. There are many steep hills and ups and downs so a taxi could sometimes come in handy if you need to cross over one of the many valleys.

Jerusalem was a true experience, maybe only comparable to Rome or any other major historic city that provides you with a piece of world history at any corner you turn…

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First published: 27/06/05.

Solivagant

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Solivagant

The Old City of Jerusalem holds special memories for me – not for religious reasons but as my first non European/N American travel destination as long ago as 1964. Those with long memories or knowledge of history will remember that the city was “part” of Jordan in those pre “6 Day War” days. I had crossed the Med on a Turkish passenger boat from Naples to Beirut, hitched hiked to Jerusalem via Damascus and would hitch back all the way home to the UK via Turkey - a “travel apprenticeship”! My review photo is from that trip - a digitised version of a diapositive taken from the Mount of Olives - a very much less developed skyline than that which is now the case!!

My diary lists a few “important” (semi!) Arabic phrases (e,g for "Student" and "No Money"!!) and contains a few scribbled names and addresses from Arab “friends” made along the way – I wonder how the troubles of the intervening years have treated them? The diary notes a trip up to the Temple Mount and also a visit to the Mandelbaum Gate – the only crossing between the 2 parts of the divided city and that only for UN officials, diplomats and certain “1 way only” transfers.

My second visit was in 1982 – this time I approached from Tel Aviv. The Mandelbaum Gate was no more – totally demolished as the hated symbol of a previously divided city. Significant parts of the old …

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First published: 07/06/05.

Ben Pastore

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Solivagant

I visited at a time of relative peace, though security was high and we happened to leave the West Bank the same night as the Israeli army. Regardless, Jerusalem reflects its cultural and religious history in every building, and whatever your persuasion, its hard avoid feeling a chill or two as you regard the sights seen by Abraham, David, and Jesus himself. Take out the technology and you'll almost feel like you could bump into any one of them in the narrow streets and charming bazaars.

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First published: 12/08/00.

Els Slots

Old City Of Jerusalem

Old City of Jerusalem (Inscribed)

Old City of Jerusalem by Els Slots

All was relatively quiet then, that week in August when I visited this magnificent site. Highlights were the Dome of the Rock, the Armenian quarter including St. James Cathedral, and the weird Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

The hundreds of bigger and smaller historical and religious remains are piled up in an area with a size of only 1 square km. That means that sometimes you have to look very well for something your travel guide names as a top attraction. And maybe you discover something much more beautiful on your way ...

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