National History Park

N.B. I typically don't do reviews, but after being nudged by others-and the fact that it has been over 10 years since the last review, I decided to give in and write something.

When I was a young child I would go on this website in its early days and look up the reviews of Solivagant. I read/re-read those reviews and my heart would swoon thinking that I too would want to go to those places when I am older... So, are the ruins and the citadel any different? Has the visiting experience changed 23 or 11 years later? At the time of my visit in early Dec 2023, the border between the DR and Haiti was closed due to a canal dispute. This made the option of heading there by bus not available at the time, meaning that I would have to fly into Cap-Haïtien from Fort Lauderdale and catch another flight to Santo Domingo (leaving from Fort Lauderdale). Haiti has been in the news recently, and not for positive characteristics! Thankfully the problems are in Port-au-Prince away from the site and city of arrival. But, those who knew my plan were still nervous for me as there was still a risk for things to go wrong! 

Getting into the site, we took a tour (personalized and private as there wasn't anyone else sightseeing in Haiti at the time of visit) that arranged for transport to the two ruins from the hotel and the horses needed for …

We have been to Haiti 16 times with Mission to Haiti Canada, and only once to the Cap-Haitian area. We lodged in Fort Liberty, and did medical clinics in a nearby church. We took a bus to the Citadel area, then small horses up the long and winding path up the mountain. Some of our group if 12 took motorbike rides up as they had run out of horses. Our 2 guides were very kind and did walk all the way up the hill with us, one leading the animal, and the other at the tail end, keeping us centered on the animal's back at all times. I think they were taking turns reciting memorized chapters of the Psalms to pass the time as they were walking. The scenery was beautiful, though it was a bit foggy. 'The guide' for our group was very informative, and eager to tell us all about each corner of the citadel and surroundings. He did a great job! The trip was well worth it, and probably a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The trip down the mountain was probably more challenging for us than the way up, as the stones were wet from the misty rain that was falling, and the horses' hoofs often slipped. But our walking 'helpers' were quick to steady us by grabbing our arm and asking if we were alright. All in all, it was an awesome experience to be up there and the Haitians must have worked very hard to get all …

Sometimes a journey is more interesting then the destination.

All the reviews are wonderful but many things have happened to Haiti since and so I hope this review will be of interest to some.

I was in Santo Domingo for a business meeting last weekend and I flew in on Friday night. We were done by Sunday night and all the participants left on Monday except that I wanted to visit the Citadelle in Haiti. I had two days to do it as I have another appointment back in the US on Wednesday.

After a lot of preparation using the internet, I determined that there is a bus service from Santo Domingo to Cap Haitien. The bus company is Caribe Tours and so I booked a ticket for Monday morning.

When I called them on Saturday, they informed me that even though they are quite regular, they only go to Cap Haitien when there are enough passengers and they would let me know on Monday morning. That screwed up my plans and so I asked the concierge at the hotel to find me an alternative. She found me a tour company that was willing to provide a private transfer but at $US 370 which is 10X the bus fare. I had no choice at this point and coughed up the money.

We took off on Monday at 10am after I paid the fare and I sensed that this will be an interesting trip as the driver did not speak English …

My journey to the Citadel started with a young lady in 1979. I had barely heard of Haiti and we had only enough money for a one-way ticket from St. Maarten to Port au Prince. What a fine adventure! A bus ride to Cap Haiten where she knew of a delightful hotel of windows with no glass. Riding on top of Tap Taps we eventually got to the donkeys for the trip up to the Citadel. Children appeared out of the woods to serande us up with long-tubed wooden horns (much longer than they were tall) that bellowed like fog horns. We were "welcomed" to the fort by what was once a dog now being washed for dinner as it hung outside a tower window. The forts' chamber were ghostly beautiful; ornate cannons ready to fire mounds of cannon balls at French phantoms. We were told that syphilis-mad Henri Christophe once ordered an entire regiment to march off the fort's wall to their death. Thanks to Kippi Dupont and his plane, we were able to leave Haiti but I'll never forget those three days or the magnificent Citadel!

I visited Haiti in the fall of 1955. We stayed at the Ibo Lele Hotel in Petionville. At that time, as I recall, a relative of, I think, Teddy Roosevelt was the owner or manager.

We took a trip up to Cap Haitian in a DC-3 and got on mules for the climb up to the Citadel. First we stopped at San Souci. I had never been on a horse and I was sure I'd fall off the mule, but as we went along it got better. There were several local men who walked up the mountain with us, barefoot. On the way they taught me one Creole expression. In French, "the same thing" is "meme chose". They told me they said "meme bagai". Many years later in New York City when I'd get a taxi driver who I thought from his name might be Haitian, I told him the story and it always invoked a laugh.

I was there while Magloire was president. The country was poor, but not devastingly so.

I also worked for a non-profit organization which helped a women's clinic in Cite Soleil.

I have good memories of Haiti, learning to do the meringue, visiting the church with the murals, buying souvenires at the Iron Market.

That Port-au-Prince no longer exists. Very sad.

My interest in Haiti is newly aroused after the earthquake last week in Port au Prince. I recall my trip there in the 1970's.

Flying out of Detroit, MI, with the Nomads Air Travel Club, we land at the North Shore city of Cap Hatitien. Our mountain-top destination is to be the massive foreboding fortress of the Citadelle, reached only by a narrow rocky path worn into the side of the steeply rising mountainside.

To aid us in this exciting adventure, each of us hire a local Hatian guide, and a small, sure-footed little donkey. The friendly and helpful Haitiens carry our cameras, water, and either lead our donkey, or occasionally switch him on the behind to urge him on a little faster.

As we reach the higher elevations, the Citadelle comes into view through the trees, growing bigger at each glimpse. At the top, the scene is breathtaking. The massive stone structure of the Citadelle against a blue sky above, and the sparkling blue Atlantic below makes one feel as tho one is standing on the top of the world, and can see forever.

I consider this as one of my favorite adventures of my travels in life: the people, the history, the scenery. This is indeed one of the "Treasures of the World."

The Citadelle La Ferriere and Palace of Sans Souci near Cap Haitien are 2 of the most remarkable historical remains in the Americas. Seeing them is worthwhile both in itself and for the window it can provide on an amazing historical period and on the subsequent history of benighted Haiti through to its current troubles. I place them in my highest category of WHS “Worth a Journey”! (as opposed to “worth a detour” or a “visit”)

Haiti itself is a fascinating destination but perhaps not everyone’s taste – and, at the time of writing (Feb 2005..for the trip in Jan 2000), perhaps not totally safe. But, even if you don’t want to give Haiti a “full trip” then Cap Haitien itself is easily visited from the Dominican Republic. – allow a day to get there, a day to see the WHS and a day to get back. First take a bus or taxi to the border town of Dajabon – either from Santo Domingo or from one of the beach resorts on the NE coast. Walk across the border to Ouanaminthe and you are in a different world. You leave the Dominican Republic with its received US culture, its fast food chains, baseball and cast-off US Greyhound buses and enter the closest you will get to “Africa” on that side of the Atlantic. We were welcomed to Haiti with hens being sacrificed on the steps of the immigration hut. Your “bus” to Cap …