Mazagan

As was the case for Els, I wasn't expecting much from Mazagan but it turned out to be a very positive visit. Even its evaluation report widely praised it, with hardly any contestation. It is a reminder of a cardinal rule in appreciating World Heritage Sites: it is not all about beauty, the superlatives, and the thrills one can offer; rather look for what makes it exceptional and unique. I spent two half-days and one night in the small fortified city, so I was able to witness its splendor in broad day light, its quiet evening charm, as well as its bemusing side when it was totally shrouded in thick fog during the early morning walk along the walls. My interest in making this review was rekindled by my recent meeting with Dr. Jorge Correia, an Iberian colonial architecture professor from Portugal who did seminal studies on this Portuguese fort in the early 90s. It was a most providential encounter while he was visiting the churches and fortifications in my area. The findings of their studies were later on used as the backbone of the nomination of Mazagan into the World Heritage Site list. As he explained, if Mazagan were in Europe, it would hardly stand out. But its presence in Africa made the ultimate difference as its construction marked the very point when there was no turning back for the empire's expansion pursuits and that the important monuments are largely in tact considering that they are some of the …

The Portuguese City of Mazagan turned out the biggest positive surprise of my short Moroccan coastal trip in January 2023. The site has been rated by others as of the least interest among Morocco's WHS, but just looking at the site’s intrinsic qualities and OUV, I believe this is not fair. Yes, I understand it is small and takes an hour at most to explore. But:

1. It is really old. It dates from the very early stages of the explorations of the Portuguese outside Europe (1514). Among the many Portuguese colonial forts around the world, this one is the second oldest that is still intact. The only older one is Elmina Castle in Ghana (part of the Gold Coast Forts WHS). 
2. It has barely changed since. Elmina was heavily used by the Dutch and British in the 17th-19th centuries, while Mazagan was abandoned after the Portuguese left in 1769. The fortress town, therefore, has kept its original layout, some buildings, and the ramparts. Only the residential buildings of the Moroccans that settled here from the mid-19th century on, are additions, as well as an entrance gate built during the French protectorate.
3. It has kept the church buildings intact. The 16th-century Portuguese Church of the Assumption still holds the primary position in town. OK, the Moroccans that took over and renamed the town El Jadida turned a higher watchtower into the minaret of their mosque. But they didn’t destroy the churches.

I visited Mazagan as …

I visited this WHS in April 2018. Just as Essaouira was formerly known as Mogador, El Jadida was known as Mazagan. Both fortified towns are along the Atlantic coast and both have their own charm even though El Jadida is definitely smaller and lacks the medina atmosphere.

Apart from wandering in the few streets with bilingual names and alphabets in Portuguese and Arabic, the only three things to do here are walking on the fortified walls with a very picturesque view (photo - best time is in the morning), visiting the underground cistern and visiting the Manueline Church of the Assumption.

El Jadida in a way is quite similar to the Three Cities or Mdina in Malta and the Cittadella in Victoria/Rabat, Gozo. Next to the entrance gate is a tower-like monument with the UNESCO WHS inscription plaque. As a little trivia, the UNESCO symbol on the plaque is upside down!

All in all El Jadida is a worthwhile half day trip from Rabat and you can easily stop half way to take in Casablanca too. La Capitainerie is a hidden gem of a restaurant within a former church/chapel and their hummus, calamari dish and/or seafood tajine alone are worth the visit!

This old Portuguese fortified town is quite small and it doesn't take too long to walk through it and get a sense of the place. It's quite interesting in the way it was designed and the historical significance in indisputable. There are some nice views from the walls but, other than that, there's not a whole lot to see.

There were not many visitors at all when I came and I guess it's not the most popular place in the country. In fact, I didn't bother staying the night here and got the train up to Rabat afterwards (although that did get me in quite late).

I travelled to El Jadida by train from Casablanca-Voyageurs, then took a petit taxi to visit the Portuguese city.

This was very compact area contained within walls and bastions. The connections to Portugal were limited however to an underground cistern and the Church of the Assumption.

The portuguese city is old that's why it's in ruins. El Jadida is full of really great people both in 2001 and 2004 when I went. Everywhere life is bustling and everyone is ready to roll out the red carpet for visitors. The beach Sidi Bouzid is beautiful and worthy of its fame. El Jadida is more than just the Old City. The cafes are quaint and the food is good. Now that it's been so built-up it's well worth a stop. Essaouira was freezing in September due to the wind. El Jadida was and will be my favorite and if you're looking for the real Morocco, not shopping centers in Casa or touristy games in Marrakech then I recommend El Jadida.

Nothing has changed in El-Jadida recently. I was in January 2009 and the conditions in old medina are appaling. Litter everwhere, old Portugese churches are closed, many houses are ruined, mosques are closed for non-muslims as usual. Despite that it is worth visiting - walls are strong and well preserved, Portugese cistern is a "must" to see and really interesting. The most impressing view of Mazagan is from the pier in fishing port, especially in the early morning of sunshine day - recommended.