Kulangsu

Going to Gulangyu is very straight-forward: a bus to the International Ferry Terminal, then a smooth 20-minute boat ride to the island. If one decides to leave the island after 6PM as my friend and I did, the ferries for tourists then operate at the Piano Ferry Terminal, making the return trip shorter (it also makes it easier to go to Zhongzhan Road next, another top tourist attraction of Xiamen). Before going to Gulangyu, I made a mental note on the buildings that Els failed to see as I curiously wanted to check them out. Upon exiting Sanqiutian Ferry Terminal, the imposing neo-Classical former building of the American Consulate (1930) greets you. Beside it is the former building of the Hongning Hospital, a brick corner building in the style of late Amoy Deco. As it is dubbed as the "Most Beautiful Corner of Gulangyu," a lot of locals are familiar with this building and they make their way up to this point to take their photos. Afterwards, they proceed to the more popular spots on the island namely the Organ Museum/Bagua Mansion (1908), the Piano Museum, and Sunset Rock. 

As we were held hostage by the rain early on that day, we sought shelter at Rivers Cafe, which is housed in one of the marked villas. The hour or so spent there was not wasted as we took that opportunity to explore what one of the old villas, which are often fenced and closed, looks like on …

Kulangsu: a historic international settlement comprises of an island off the coast of Xiamen that was inhabited by foreign traders, missionaries and diplomats in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Later in the 20th century, it also became home to Chinese who returned from abroad. Together they gave a modern impulse to China through the input of Western culture and technology. The circa 1000 preserved historic buildings show a mix of European, Chinese and South Asian architectural styles.

The island lies really just right off the coast, you can almost swim towards it. The ferry for the local residents also takes only 5 minutes. Tourists have to leave from a location further away though, with a boat that takes longer (20 minutes). There were at least 200 people on 'my' boat, all Chinese. Kulangsu (Gulangyu in modern Chinese) is a very popular destination for Chinese tour groups: there are no less than 13 million(!!) visitors per year. And that while there even is a daily limit on the number of visitors. On the weekends and around Chinese holidays you have to book the boat in advance, otherwise, you run the chance that the tickets for the day in question (with a maximum of 50,000!) have run out.

After arriving at the dock at 8.30 am on a weekday, I could leave with the 9.10 am ferry. The first boat of the day is at 7.10 am, so there were not many others on the island yet. It is …

I visited Gulangyu (Kulangsu) in 2010, during a weekend trip to Xiamen (and the Fujian tulou), flying in from Hong Kong, where I was staying for a few months. In a sense, Gulangyu delivers what Hong Kong or Shanghai only promise: the fusion of West and East in a late 19th century / early 20th century international settlement established to trade with China. Gulangyu is surprisingly big and quite well-preserved (though when I visited in 2010, a few of the mansions were in the process of being "spruced up"). Its architecture has a distinctive Western flair to it, but Chinese elements also appear here and there (and it includes at least one fully-fledged Chinese garden). A few parts, such as the giant statue of Koxinga, are of a younger age, and it's a bit strange that they have been inscribed too. As should be expected of most tourist sites in China (in particular those in the middle of a city), it is quite touristy, but (at least in 2010) still bearable. The lack of traffic is definitely a plus - one can just stroll aimlessly around the island to discover its various corners. Overall, it was a very pleasant visit, and a break from the general hubbub of modern Chinese city life.

I visited the island in August 2016. It is a delightful oasis of calm, with no cars permitted. The early C20th colonial architecture is abundant and spread across the island, which is fun to explore. There were few western visitors like myself, but it is a very popular domestic tourism site and ferry numbers are limited. I wish the authorities well in the 2017 World Heritage inscription and hope the impact of tourism will be controlled.

Visited Kulangsu in 2009. This island not far away from modern China City Xiamen (Amoy). The island is full of tourists by the time I visited and I believe the island itself became more and more heated over the years.

Away from the crowds you may find some peaceful beaches, architectures with obvious western influence. In general this is a popular place in China local love to travel.