Koh Ker

Koh Ker did not interest me at all in 2012 so I was more than fine to have skipped it when I went to Preah Vihear Temple, despite the former being on the way. Little did I know that I missed something. While as a complex it is not as spectacular as the ensemble in Angkor, the axial alignment of the Terrace of Lingams-Prasat Thom-Prasat Roum-Prasat Prang-Mound of the White Elephant King reminded me of the impressive configuration of Preah Vihear Temple. While there are joiner tours now offered taking visitors to Koh Ker and Beng Mealea, this only works if: 1. You are happy seeing the pyramid alone, and 2. you have an active Angkor Pass to let you in Beng Mealea. My friend and I opted renting a car for a full day in Koh Ker instead. In doing so, we were able to do the loop and explore most of the temples. Aside from Prasat Pram, I also like the laterite-built Prasat Neang Khmau, an interesting single monument surrounded by two enclosures, and the heavily ruined Prasat Chrap that demonstrates clear design flaws in its three towers possibly arising from hasty work (a theme that will recur in most temples here). Prasat Damrei is another charmer with its elephant and lion sculptures (photo), and it even has an antecedent square sandstone temple that once housed a lingam too.

The nomination dossier spent a great deal in explaining about alignments and how the temples were built according …

Originally not part of Dvaravati and Pre-Angkorian Arts trip arranged by ICOMOS I participated with. On the free day in Siem Reap, the separate excursion to Koh Ker had been arranged by a small group of experts which I promptly joined after I heard their special tour. We left Siem Reap very early and reached Koh Ker at 9 AM to be the first group of visitors of that day. The local guide and ICOMOS experts explained to me that Koh Ker was the capital of Angkorian Empire for only about 25 years during the reign of King Jayavarman IV and his son. The reason why the king moved the capital to Koh Ker is still unknown, but most historians believe that it was political reason since the King usurped the throne of his nephew, so he moved the capital to Koh Ker where he ruled as local lord before he attacked his rival in Angkor.

The first thing I noted that Koh Ker’s location was quite dry and hot than Siem Reap area, one expert told me that the shortage of water maybe another reason why people moved the capital back to Angkor later. After we secured the ticket, the first temple was Prasat Pram Group, a complex of five buildings dedicated to Shiva, here our experts explained that the Koh Ker’s architectural style was clearly developed from Rolous Complex outside Siem Reap but the ratio of the whole structure had been expanded especially around the gate …

If Koh Ker gets inscribed later this year, it will be the 8th site related to the Khmer Empire and its predecessors on the World Heritage List. Considering the Maya have 9 now (and Takalik Abaj is upcoming!), it doesn’t seem overrepresented. But we are getting to the Tier 3 sites now I think, with Angkor solely occupying Tier 1 of the Khmer sites and the current WHS Sambor Prei Kuk and Preah Vihear holding Tier 2.

Koh Ker is a step down from these 3, considering both the visitor experience and the level of artistic/historic distinction. It dates from a relatively short period in the 10th century when it was the capital of the Khmer Empire. It was another stepping stone (both in time and location) between Sambor Prei Kuk and Angkor. The Khmer’s water management skills were further developed here.

The ‘best’ things the people from Koh Ker produced were colossal-sized statues. Unfortunately, none are left at the current archaeological site and there are no replicas either to show where they would have fitted. The statues can be seen in the National Museum in Phnom Penh and the Musée Guimet in Paris. In Phnom Penh, a giant Garuda from Koh Ker is welcoming all visitors at the museum entrance. Although the finer nuances in Khmer art elude me, I found the ones from Koh Ker easy to distinguish as they are of a large size, made of sandstone, and less refined.

The archaeological site is …

Koh Ker was our next stop on the day trip to Preah Vihear, after we visited Beng Mealea. Our driver told us this layered pyramid was actually his favourite temple of Cambodia. The multi-day Angkor passes used to cover this site two, however it changed recently and we had to buy separate tickets. Not a problem, it was worth it. On the day of our visit, the site was mostly visited by local tourists - it's obviously a bit off the main fare. There's actually two-in-one ensembles: firstly, you enter through a set of ruins that looks something like three structures of Sambor Prei Kuk thrown together, similarily encircled by tree roots, a bit of a lake and general state of ruin-disrepair. You're already impressed, there are some nice photo ops. And then you walk some more and in the view in front of you a large pyramid appears.

It's square in layout, with layered stories one on top of each other and the best thing is the rickety wooden staircase you can take to the top and enjoy the view. It's couple of hundred steps, wear a hat and have some water, you will need it. But the view were absolutely amazing and the whole detour was definitely worth it! As Nan pointed out, the pyramid provides the most distinctive and unique feature of the whole ensemble. 

Normally I try to stipulate the full itinerary of a day trip with a driver before I go. This time I didn’t and my driver notified me in Preah Vihear that Koh Ker wasn’t part of the trip. I was left somewhat annoyed, but couldn’t really complain as all I asked for was Preah Vihear. Koh Ker was just mentioned as an alternative when my driver was pitching me potential day trips back in Siem Reap.

Coming down the mountain after my visit of Preah Vihear I had already prepared myself for major haggling. But this being Cambodia my driver asked for less than 20 USD as a starting bid. It was kind of cute and I just had to smile and said yes. Going to Koh Ker is at least a 1h detour and adds some kilometers to the tab.

And I have to say the money was well invested. Koh Ker managed to surprise me as I suddenly felt beamed to Yucatan: a pyramid in the jungle! Thanks to the limited visitors you are even allowed to climb it and get a great view of the surrounding landscape (mostly jungle). It’s funny how these classical forms transcend cultures. Admittedly, due to the rather late hour and the tiring heat, I skipped on the other components of the site.

OUV

I had already seen plenty of Khmer architecture when I came to Koh Ker. The site pales in size and artwork compared to Preah Vihear, …

I went on a day trip from Siem Reap to 3 remote temples on one day with private car. One of those temples was Koh Ker. The site has several small and bigger stops. From the ticket booth you drive a few kilometres to the main site (with the piramide). First you enter a complex of temples and other buildings, at the end is the piramide you can climb.

After this main site you make a looping to see some small temples with lingas. On the way out many more smaller items, But also a beautifull location with 5 similar temples, two "eaten" by the trees.

I was in Koh Ker in February 2010. The main monuments "Prang" (a huge pyramide)and the annex-temple "Prasat Thom" are really impressive. There are much more temples, some of them with two meter high lingas.(More informations: Koh Ker Wiki Voyage)