Kazan Kremlin

Kazan had been on my travel radar for quite a few years, so I knew I had to make a southern detour there during my Russia-by-Rail trip. Not only is it a mini-hotspot with 3 WHS within easy reach, but it is also the capital of the Federal Republic of Tatarstan (which sounds kind of exotic). In reality, it is a modern, Russified city. It is very clean and I liked that every car stopped in front of zebra crossings when a pedestrian approached! I stayed for 3 days and started my explorations with the oldest Tartar fortress that still exists in Russia: the Kazan Kremlin.

From the Kazan railway station, it is only a 20-minute walk to the Kremlin. It is not difficult to find the fortress: there are signposts everywhere, also in English. Kazan was one of the host cities of the Football World Cup last year, and they have retained an international touch. This year they organized the World Skills Games: an international competition among young artisans, from gardeners to tilers. The logos of these Games, which ended in late August, can still be seen everywhere in the city.

Just like the Kremlin in Moscow, the Kremlin in Kazan is the place where you will find the important and oldest buildings in the city. The slightly leaning, brick Söyembikä tower for example. The President of Tatarstan lives in the green palace next door. Federal republics like Tatarstan have their own constitution, and their own president …

Reading other people's reviews of Kazan Kremlin I was wandering whether we visited the same place or everything changed so much in the last few years. I bet the latter as Russia indeed improved significantly and became more tourist friendly, making my third visit to that country the most enjoyable.

Kazan Kremlin is located in the very center of the city, in a short walk from the train station. Its white walls are visible from a long distance and that view is really pleasant. On the top of some towers there are metal flags with UNESCO signs.

The kremlin was built by tzar Ivan the Terrible after vanquishing of the whole Kazan Khanate and a complete destruction of Kazan. To commemorate the victory he ordered to build a magnificent Sobor Blagoveshchenski, which until recently was the biggest building in Kremlin. The sobor was a symbol of Christian Orthodox victory over Islam. Entry is free of charge, taking pictures forbidden.

But history is sometimes very tricky. In 2005 a beautiful mosque Kul Sharif was built in the centre of the Kremlin. Now the mosque is reigning on the Kremlin, especially at night, and shows renaissance of Islam in this region. Although the building is controversial, I liked it and think it composes well with other buildings of the Kremlin. It is possible to visit and to take photos in the mosque. Other important buildings are Soyembika Tower and Tatarstan president palace.

Entry to Kazan kremlin is free 24h and to praise …

I went to the Kazan Kremlin on 1st September 2011. To be honest it was quite disappointing. The sun was shining and everything looked beautiful, but somehow the experience didn't live up to my expectations. For a city that boasts of its milennium status I for one could not embrace the concept that white walls were anywhere near 1000 years old, and it look like my suspicions are proved right by other posts.

Whilst it was fascinating to step inside a mosque I found it an unsatisfactory experience. The glitzy finish of what is an oversized empty room didn't bring me any closer to God, but left me feeling like an intruder as we wore our blue plastic overshoes and were only permitted access to a viewing gallery.

Imagine taking a trip to St.Pauls Cathedral in London and being told you were only welcome in a small part? Unlike my many trips inside cathedrals there was no evidence of faith through the acts of mere mortals within, but rather a thought that one was supposed to have a sense of awe, which I sadly didn't share.

The mosque was a disappointment, but inside the Kremlin Orthodox Church I was actually assaulted by the security guard! There's no doubt the painting inside were impressive, but as a first time visitor I was quietly discussing what was going on at the rear of building. A qualified priest appeared to be traing a lay man on thart of "incantation". All of a sudden …

I may agree with the above stated. It may be a violation of a heritage structure and my first impression was negative. But when I saw that I had to change my opinion. There are some remnants of Tatar Khan graveyards close to Siusiumbike (so we can treat that as continuity of Tatar reign) but I would treat the mosque as underlining new tendencies of Tatar Republic. The mosque is built in the style of modern Central Asia mosques but as a whole it not violating the whole structure. In fact it is the most fascinating part of the whole Kremlin.

It is very questionable how legitimate are the criteria of Kazan Kremlin inscription in the World heritage list. The true story is that in 1552 the Tatar fortress was completely destroyed by the Russians. No single monument or structure on the territory of Kazan Kremlin survived the invasion. The new fortress was built from scratch. That is why there is no way we can talk either of the "historical continuity and cultural diversity over a long period of time" or "the historic citadel represents an exceptional testimony of the Khanate period and is the only surviving Tatar fortress". Kazan Kremlin has been a piece of Russian Architecture until 2005 when a new Kul Sharif Mosque was finished. This fact itself is a violation of the World heritage site regulations. 5 years after the site was enlisted an entirely new object was built. It is claimed to be a "restoration" of the historic mosque that had been there before the Russian invasion, but no images or descriptions could be presented to prove the historcal or architectural links between the old and the new mosque.

Kazan had long figured large in my city “do list” ever since, over 40 years ago, I first saw Eisenstein’s “Ivan the Terrible” with its magnificent representation of the city’s siege and the defeat of the Tatar Khans. Of course the Kremlin ensemble, built and rebuilt since the siege, can only faintly echo these events but, when we eventually visited in May 2007, we discovered plenty of interest (and controversy) there. Whilst, beyond, lies a handsome city whose style and substance should place it ahead of many other similar-sized European cities (population 1 million +) for a visitor’s attention.

The Kremlin surrounding wall is capped in parts with wooden roofs and spires – several of which, perhaps incongruously and certainly un-authentically, sport the UNESCO WH logo (photo 1) – Kazan is clearly proud of its inscription! Inside is a melange of buildings, both religious and secular, from 16th to 21st (!) century – including 17th century towers, a 16th century cathedral and monastery buildings (other churches were destroyed in Stalin’s time and the monastery became a tobacco factory), a 19th century Governor’s house (still used as the presidential palace) and finally THAT mosque opened as recently as June 2005 (5 years after inscription)! All are joined by a long avenue faced by other classical buildings (photo 2). A fine plan of the complex with “mouse-overs” is on the Tatar President's Web site!

The previous post raises a number of issues regarding the authenticity of the Kremlin and the words …