Faya Palaeolandscape

Visit – June 25

This summer our first goal was Kenya. With Etihad we landed in Abu Dhabi a few minutes late to reach our morning connection to Nairobi. The next available flight wasn’t until after midnight. We had originally planned a mini-meetup with Els in the afternoon to visit to Nairobi National Park, so it was a bit of a blow.

Etihad provided a hotel for the day – but we thought: why not rent a car and make the most of it?

Mleiha Archaeological Site, part of the Faya Paleolithic Complex, is up for possible World Heritage inscription at this year’s session. Although the ICOMOS evaluation recommended not to inscribe, we still thought it was worth a visit.

It’s about a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi, and we arrived at Mleiha Archaeological Centre early afternoon – in a scorching 47°C heat. The visitor center is modern and well-organized. We signed up for a guided tour. The tour started with an indoor visit to the museum, which included a short film and a great introduction to the site.

The exhibition highlights that this area holds evidence of human activity dating back over 130,000 years, with near-continuous settlement from the Stone Age through the Bronze and Iron Ages, up to the pre-Islamic period. One of the themes emphasized by the guide was early human migration from Africa. During periods of lower sea levels, it was possible to cross the Red Sea – and the Mleiha area …

You'll be heading for the Mleiha Archeology Center for this one which I visited twice in the last few years. First was a bit of a bust. They had lots of activities for Wadi Bashing and no tours ready to take me out so I visited the museum only which is not bad in any way but the main findings are out in the open. So since my visit 3 years ago the bashing got outlawed, new findings made some signs outdated and hardly anyone comes out here anymore. You'll be asking for a tour and they just arrange with available staff.

I left after lunch with the option to view the museum but I had already reglanced that I didn't find it necessary. It's included and the staff is happy you go in, watching the camel/horse burial etc. For the actual tour you nowadays fork out at least 130 DH per person.

The tour is via a car because it's so hot. You first go to the ancient sites in the West and then cross over to the new ones at the East side. Those are so fresh that even a road planned to go through here was remodeled when they discovered artifacts. The East is maybe 10 years old and they still have a lot to find. You also won't see much at the site here but some basic layouts. The floods in April 2024 took their toll and most of the walls are now destroyed. …

I have little experience in visiting prehistory landscapes such as this and therefore I was grateful for our tour guide. We hiked starting from the remnants of a spring that was used by humans over many thousands of years. From here we hiked the gently incline toward the caves. Because of recent rains before our visit, much of of the desert landscape was partially green with new plant growth. The caves were in fact human occupation sites and excavations have been carried out to confirm how these caves were used throughout the millennia of the Paleolithic era. During this short hike (about 30-45 minutes) with stops, you will see 3 caves and some pleasant views, one of the caves is possible to enter, though it's a tight fit.

A short drive from this site is where some of the most surprising and exciting discoveries have been made, almost exclusively in the last 5-10 years. At this location is a partially dug out pit where you can see the stratified layers, which benefit from a color coded measurement [pictured] that dates the site to over 200,000 years of mostly continuous human presence and adaption to the landscape. The guide explained some of the new discoveries, which are being published so often now that the information on site has to be updated frequently. A lucky bonus for us, our guide was a passionate "birder" and he was well aware of an owl that frequents this site and soon we heard its …