Yen Tu

On my return flight from Rach Gia to Ho Chi Minh City after exploring the Oc Eo archaeological site with ICOMOS experts, I came across an intriguing inflight magazine article about Yen Tu, pronounced “Ian De.” Curious, I discussed it with our local guide upon landing and, without hesitation, decided to extend my Vietnam trip to explore this spiritual mountain. My original plan to fly back from Danang via Bangkok was changed, thanks to my guide’s swift coordination with her company, and I instead rerouted to Hanoi to begin a special program focused on Yen Tu. With little prior knowledge of this holy land of Truc Lam Zen Buddhism, I initially asked to visit Vinh Nghiem Pagoda along the way, inspired by what Els had done. However, the tour company recommended Con Son–Kiep Bac instead, and after confirming the site's mention on the UNESCO website, I agreed.

Nearly two hours from Hanoi Airport, we arrived at Con Son Temple, pronounced "Concern", via a new, well-paved road that clearly seemed part of a larger beautification effort in anticipation of World Heritage inscription. The driver dropped me off at a small lake near the outer entrance. Behind the arch gate, a stately pathway led to the temple, reminiscent of Hanoi’s Temple of Literature, evoking an imperial connection. Each temple hall was richly decorated with red-and-gold painted wooden panels, surrounded by corridors filled with the scent of offering flowers, fruits, and incense. Beyond the dignified layout and ornamental detailing, the roofs of Con …

'The Complex of Yen Tu Monuments and Landscape' is a mixed site that comprises a huge area, spread out over 3 separate regions. It is the heartland of Truc Lam Zen Buddhism. Skimming the long description of this TWHS, the Vinh Nghiem pagoda stood out to me as probably the most worthwhile individual component.

The Vinh Nghiem pagoda dates back to the beginning of the 11th century and was enlarged during the Tran dynasty (from the 12th century on), when it became the center of Truc Lam Zen Buddhism. Truc Lam ("bamboo forest") is the only indigenous form of Buddhism in Vietnam. The Vinh Nghiem pagoda was also the first training institute in Vietnam to teach Buddhist monks and nuns.

This pagoda lies near the provincial capital of Bac Giang and within a reasonable bus distance from Hanoi. So on a gloomy New Year's Day I first went with city bus 34 to Hanoi’s long distance bus station My Dinh and there caught one of the half-hourly buses to Bac Giang. The Vinh Nghiem pagoda lies in the village of Tri Yen, some 18km outside of Bac Giang. I had an idea how to get there (take a taxi), but not what to expect of it. Would it be big or small? Would it be open to tourists at all? And an important lesson from previous visits to remote (future) WHS: would I be able to find transport back?

The pagoda turned out to be on the …