Humayun's Tomb

I'm torn with this review. On one hand humayun's tomb has a privileged place in mughal history as the first of the monumental musoleums that would end with the iconic Taj mahal. On the other hand I feel the techniques that would make the Taj mahal the masterpiece it is, hadn't yet shone through. The structure lacks the striking verticality of later mughal structures and the decoration with pietradura had yet to be perfected. This leaves the mausoleum rather plain, though the alternation of marble and sandstone somewhat lessens this.

On another note it's refreshingly empty compared with the utterly overcrowded Taj mahal and it includes a number of lesser mausoleums which are indeed very interesting and some utterly devoid of tourists. Such as the striking tomb of Isa Khan Niazi (photo), a noble from the courts of Sher Shah Suri, the man who gave the mughals a run for their money.

My visit to Delhi in Dec 2023 was part of my mission of retracing my steps back in 2013, when I first travelled to India and missed visiting Humayun's Tomb and Qutb Minar. That was the time when I didn't care much about UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and my travel companion had a set itinerary I didn't want to deviate from. This time, I made sure that I would visit these sites.

The inscribed property refers to a complex comprising one main tomb (Humayun's tomb itself) and several other smaller tombs. Note that this complex of tombs is just one of the many tombs that are scattered across Nizamuddin neighbourhood and the greater Delhi. As a friend would call it, Delhi is both a metropolis and a massive graveyard.

1. Humayun's Tomb

We arrived at the ticket office around 2 pm, which was about the same time the school kids were finishing their visit to the tomb. We went straight to the Western Gate, passing both Bu Halima's Tomb and Garden and Isa Khan's Tomb and Mosque on the way to the main tomb. After taking a photo of the UNESCO plaque, we passed through the Western Gate and walked towards Humayun's tomb. The mausoleum sits on top of a high platform, giving the already prominent mausoleum a more "superior" status over the entire complex. We climbed the stairs and explored the mausoleum. We saw people "testing" the acoustics of the mausoleum walls, while others were busy …

This monument is the best site to see in Delhi. I went there in 2010 and was surprised to see that it was totally different from other sites in Delhi. The surrounding was clean, calm and peaceful. No hawkers, conmen, scammers etc. And the monument was magnificient. I highly recommend this site to anyone visiting Delhi.

I visited this WHS in January 2012. This site is unique as it was the stepping stone to build the Taj Mahal. The architectural symmetry of the tomb and its gardens can be clearly seen also in this site.

Humayun's Tomb was the last of Delhi's WHS that I visited. It is undoubtedly the most picturesque of all of the sites, with its perfect shapes. It is easy to see how it has influenced the Taj Mahal. But I have not become a big fan of Mughal architecture here in Delhi: the buildings were constructed to impress, but lack fine details (or maybe these have disappeared during the ages, the glazed tiles are very few now).

My visit to the site lasted a mere 45 minutes, and I cannot see how I could have spent more time here (although part of the complex is fenced off at the moment). The "park" could use some more water, to make the lawns look green and fresh, and also to fill up the little canals and pools that surround the Tomb.

However, as Rob Wilson already stated below, the state of the site has improved a lot over the last few years. There's an exhibition on site where you can see "before" and "after" photos.

I have visited the tomb twice. Once in 2002 when it was a fairly horrific state of repair. I returned last summer and am pleased to say that the ASI have done a magnificent job of restoring this wonderful old tomb. It is surely one of the most evocative tombs on Earth. It provides a moments peace from the madness of Delhi and is even more interesting if you know about the extraordinary life of Humayoun himself.

Bustling and busy Dehli can prove to be quite a challenge for the first time visitor so entering the gates of Humayun’s Tomb felt like quite a nice relief from persistent rickshaw-drivers, touts, beggars, snake charmers and other annoying elements you are confronted with. It’s a cultural shock that any European have to go through but after some weeks of travel on the Indian continent I promise that you will see them as part of a wonderful and massively colourful society that draws you back for another visit.

Humayum’s Tomb was built by the grief-stricken wife of emperor Humayun in 1565. It took nine years to complete the tomb and it is said to be a landmark in the evolution of early Mughal architecture and legend tells that it’s been a model for the mighty Taj Mahal in Agra.

I visited Humayum’s Tomb on an early December morning when only a few visitors had entered the site and the contrast between the city and the peaceful garden and the monument was truly stunning. With several adjacent palaces and tombs, make sure you take at least some 2-3 hours to fully enjoy this wonderful place.

Haunting. Mesmerizing. Unforgettable. The mythical aura surrounding Humayun's Tomb became a part of my soul the moment I laid my eyes on it, in January of 2005. That beautiful foggy winter morning in New Delhi is indelibly entrenched in my heart... as the day I came across perfection.