Derbent

Derbent was the first and only part of Dagestan Ivan and I have managed to visit in our first year in Russia together. In 2013, Dagestan was still quite a wild place to visit. Ivan arranged via his tyre-seling colleagues for two local bike club members to meet us at the train station and to show us around. We arrived via night train from Baku, which was quite an adventure all by itself, including some cockroaches on train and very puzzled border guard who probably never saw our kind of passport and visa before. But it was well worth it, we made it up the Naryn Kala fortress, walked around, took shots of the city and imagined the 5000 years of history. There were some exhibits and info panels. I remember walking around the ramparts with no rails and pondering how more Health and Safety conscious countries would have had a field day here.

After visiting Derbent, our biker guides took us to Makhachkala for some lunch and drove us to the airport for our flight back to Moscow. I remember it having a place where one deposits their weapons before flying to Moscow. It was definitely a curious visit, though even back then the people of Caucasus have been very welcoming and friendly, genuinely interested in foreign tourists. And that has not changed. We toured Dagestan in November 2021, skipping Derbent this time as we only had four days and the hospitality was amazing as always. The general …

Many think that a visit to Derbent is our of the reach of an independent Western traveler. Dagestan has a very bad reputation as a troublesome region with high crime rate and as a source of jihadist threat. Practically all Western countries issued travel warnings, discouraging travelers to go there, and even Moscovite Russians have a firm conviction that Dagestan is a dangerous place. But -if you venture to go there - literally everybody will try to convince you that there is no calmer and friendlier place on Earth than Dagestan. And after two days I was ready to believe rather them than my own bureaucrats in the ministries.

But let us see the practical side: Travelling to Dagestan is not difficult at all, there are no restrictions, extra permits, checkpoints, you can get the visa with the normal procedure, and travel around freely. From Moscow there are a lot of flights daily to Mahachkala. If you book the ticket well in advance a fares are quite low - 40-60 euros one way. I was flying Utair, a low cost company based in Moscow's Vnukovo airport. (Advisable for those who understand Russian as they do not have English website.) From Mahachkala airport you have to take a taxi to the bus station (avtovokzal), from where there are innumerable marshrutkas going to Derbent. As a rule they leave when full, but normally as I realized you don't have to wait more than a couple of minutes. The bigger ones (Gazella minibuses) …