Copán

I visited this WHS in Spring 2024 as a 2 night 2 day trip excursion from Guatemala. Arriving late in the afternoon as opposed to an early morning border crossing meant that there was no traffic at all, something that should be taken in mind as we saw long queues to cross the border from Guatemala to Honduras on our return.

This is truly a special WHS and I strongly suggest allowing time before/after your visit for the great site museum to be able to see the original intricate stelae and stone sculptures. Make sure to buy the all-inclusive tickets to be able to visit the museum and the recently dug tunnels too. Like in Quirigua, Guatemala, the stelae or altars covered by thatched roofs or canvas are original while the rest are replicas. The Hieroglyph Stairway is a stunning masterpiece together with the Acropolis, Ball Courts and different plazas. The surrounding vegetation is excellent for fine birdwatching, made especially easy due to several scarlet macaw feeders on some trees. My slightly longer overnight stay in Copan Ruinas was well worth it as there are excellent restaurants and cafes around.

I visited Copán during my trip to Guatemala in November and December 2021. I had opted for the town of Chiquimula as my base for visiting the site. Buses serve it from Guatemala City. Minibuses leave from the city for the border of El Florido. From there, additional minibuses go to the town of Copán Ruinas. From the city, it is easy to reach the ruins on foot.

When I arrived at the site, I was quite surprised to find that the gate was locked and that the site was closed. I had changed my itinerary during the trip (I didn't go to El Salvador as planned) and found myself in Copán earlier than scheduled. I had not made sure that the site would be open that day and it was not (the site closes on Mondays for maintenance). I walked a little further hoping to find another entrance, but nothing. When I came back, a site official was talking to two backpackers through the gate, explaining what I had just learned. He did, however, offer them a guided tour of the site. He explained that this was the only way to visit the site during the maintenance days. Although the other two backpackers refused to share the cost of the guide, I opted for the tour anyway. It saved me from having to come all the way back the next day. I wasn't going to give up this site so easily.

In the end, this tour is …

With my brother’s wife being from Honduras, it was a certainty we would have to visit the country during our Central America trip in the summer of 2016.

Like others, we crossed into Honduras from Guatemala at the El Florido crossing (our driver’s taking of various other border crossings between Guatemala and El Salvador raised some eyebrows elsewhere) and overnighted in Copan Ruinas at the Hotel Magdalena. A five minute drive early in the morning brought us to the wooded trail to the ruins, the colours of the macaws flashing between the trees. 

Our driver arranged a tour guide. When looking back on our travels, my wife will often go straight to remembering a random detail. “What do you remember about Copan?” “The tour guide had a stick with a macaw feather on it. And it was so hot!” Indeed, the various shady areas around the ruins are very welcome in that respect, compared to us almost getting incinerated at Chichen Itza! 

Visiting in the morning, there were very few other people there - my photos are clear of other tourists unlike similar sites in Mexico for example. The guide showed us a 3d model of the complex at the museum / visitor centre first, which gave a good overview of the components we would later see - the Eastern Plaza, the Plaza los Jaguares with it’s dancing jaguars (pictured), the Plaza Principal, the Acropolis, the highly prized Hieroglyphic Stairway and my personal favourite, …

When I arrived at the archaeological site of Copán at 8.15 am, a man was still busy removing the rain coverings from the statues. I had to wait for him a few times when I did my circuit. The many sculptures, statues, and stelae are the highlights of this site, so it’s worth waiting for.

There is a main trail through the forest to guide you around the site. Very little is fenced off: you are free to take side paths, climb the old stairs and discover what lies on the other side of those stones. It was still quiet of course this early in the day, and this freedom of movement only makes it easier to avoid people.

The first monumental complex you encounter is the Square of the Jaguars. From here, tunnels (closed to the public) led to the rest of the city. By climbing over a pretty ruin twisted by tree roots, you get your first look at the main plaza. Here lies the famous hieroglyphic staircase as well as the ball game court. Many stelae and other statues are dotted around the open areas. Those under shelter are originals, those without are replicas. It's a fine place to wander around or find a nice spot to sit down. You’ll hear birds (macaws) screaming at you all the time from a corner of the plaza, where they are fed.

A side path from this main plaza will lead you to Núñez Chinchilla. This is …

Honduras has a reputation that is enough to scare off most visitors from making a lengthy visit. Fortunately Copan Ruinas is very close to the Guatemalan border and is easily reached from there both independently or by tour/tourist shuttle. There are several sections to this site including the museum and tunnels and with all the separate fees it is one of the more expensive Mayan WHS to see. 

We covered the most central parts and didn't make it out to the Sepulturas section and it still took us a couple hours. Compared to other Mayan ruins what really sets this one apart is the quality and quantity of stele and carved detail, especially in the hieroglyphic staircase. It was nice to visit without huge crowds and still be able to climb over large sections. The huge trees still growing out of the rubble make for some great photos too. 

The nearby bird park has also been reintroducing Scarlet macaws to the area and there were a couple dozen hanging around near the entrance. They are beautiful birds and it's not surprising that the Mayans of Copan used a lot of macaw imagery in their hieroglyphics and decor throughout the site too. I only give it 4 stars though because a full visit to the site is overpriced for the region. 

I visited the ruins at Copan on February 18, 2009 and stayed in the nearby village of Copan Ruinas, which lies only a 1km walk away along a specially paved walkway. On the walk, you'll pass several still unexcavated mounds and a sculpture or two. You can also take a taxi,which are really three wheeled pickups, for about $0.60.

Unlike the Mayan ruins at Chichen, Coba and, as noted in the previous post, Tikal these ruins do not cover a wide area but what they do offer are many intricately carved stele or stone columns celebrating the accomplishments of several of the Mayan rulers of the city. These stele, most of them on a central plaza, inspired the noted archeologist Linda Schele to describe the site as "A Forest of Kings." Unfortunately two or three of the most beautiful stelae and sacrificial altars are represented by reproductions, the originals having been moved to the nearby museum. Entrance to the ruins, the museum and recently dug tunnels under the so-called "Acropolis" are separate. Currently it's $15 for this site (and Las Sepulturas), $7 for the museum and $12 for the tunnels for non-residents For most visitors the ruins alone would be enough, the museum is optional and the tunnels are interesting but not, in my opinion, worth the steep price. Plan on spending at least 3 hours at the site; guides are available and well informed. There are several nature trails also on the site A visit to the smaller "Sepulturas' …

Honduras has its merits as a tourist destination but lacks the appeal of Guatemala with its indigenous peoples, historic sites and scenic variety. However, if you are basing a self drive holiday on Guatemala you can still easily visit one of Honduras’s 2 WHS at Copan since it lies very close to the Guatemalan border. We started from the motel (recommended) at Rio Hondo, crossed at El Florido and left our car at the border post as it is not worth the costs of taking it across the border (even if your rental company/insurance will allow it). Next pay the personal exit/entry charges for each country (you will need to pay some of them again on the return but not too excessive! Tell the both sets of authorities that you are only going to the ruins and thus avoid the need for a Honduran visa and make it easier to get back to Guatemala), change $ for a few lempira at the border and take a truck/minibus the 14kms to the Honduran village of Copan Ruinas (they go when full but pretty frequent). From there it is only a couple of kms to the ruins (many buses). Check the border closing times for your return before you set off as the countries don’t operate to the same timetable! It all sounds quite complicated but we really found it very easy.

Copan as a destination does not, in my opinion, rival Tikal – one could easily spend 2 days wandering …