Berat and Gjirokastra

I visited both cities in May 2023 and will not add anything regarding architecture and history - since there are many very qualified reviews. However I would like to give an actual update of situation and how to get there.

BERAT

How to get there:
Berat is very easily accessible by car or bus, just 1 hour drive from Alabania´s capital Tirana. 

Sightseeing situation: 

Heavily visited and crowded, but also easy to visit (but not wheelchair accessible since streets are very steep). 

GIROKASTER

How to get there:
Girokaster also is well accessible by car and bus from Tirana (200 km or 3,5 hours - due to newly built highway)

Sightseeing situation: 

Heavily visited and crowded (lots of package tourists), not wheelchair accessible since streets are very steep. 

I visited Berat and Gjirokastra in Spring 2022 staying a couple of nights in each. At the time of my visit both towns road infrastructures were undergoing major renovations which should be addressing the major problems related to sanitation and electricity systems of both towns in the near future. Apart from the dusty welcome, both towns were truly the highlight WHS in Albania and both complemented each other and were worthwhile visits.

Especially Berat is perhaps a bit comparable with Safranbolu, Turkey and Ohrid, North Macedonia with an excellent setting surrounded by mountains and hills, including the Tomorr national park on the east, and the river Osum. The 15th century historic centre of Berat can be divided in three: the Castle (Kala) quarter, the Mangalem quarter (with the Islamic centre known as "the City of a 1,000 windows") and the Gorica quarter. The latter lies opposite the Mangalem quarter and is reachable through the "modern" pedestrian bridge or the old seven-arched Gorica Bridge. Rather than for the Ottoman qualities of this WHS, the highlights of this quarter are the 19th century Church of Saint Spiridon and the 19th century Church of Saint Thomas and the remains of the fortifications of Gorica.

The Mangalem quarter is the heart of Berat with its very narrow streets and its four highlights are the former palace of the Pasha, the 14th century Church of Saint Michael, the Islamic Center and above all the 19th century Bachelors Mosque with its exterior and interior …

Arriving at Gjirokaster, I wasn’t sure what to expect. At first glance, there were no notable structures. Gjirokaster seemed to consist exclusively of the usual communist concrete fare. So was this it? Luckily not.

Historically, the valley of the Drino River was reserved for agriculture. The locals built their towns and villages on the slopes of the surrounding hills and mountains. And up in the hills, you will find in Gjirokaster: a great example of Ottoman architecture in the Balkans. Frankly, during my travels, I have seen nothing comparable in the Balkans.

As recommended by Els I visited the Zekate house. I also went to the castle. But mostly I enjoyed strolling through the cobblestone streets and taking pictures of the Ottoman houses covering the hillsides.

To me, this is a unique site that embodies the Ottomans and the Balkans. It’s also a great representative for Albania and their culture. I think it’s well worth a visit. Be prepared, though, for an almost obsessive-compulsive level of guest friendliness.

Getting There

The easiest access point for southern Albania including Gjirokastra is Corfu. There are plenty of connections from Europe to the Greek island. From Corfu several daily ferries can take you to Saranda in Albania. You will even gain 20min as the ferry takes 40min and Greece is one hour ahead of Albania. From Saranda, you can take a minibus. These depart in front of the synagogue ruins on Rruga Flamurit. The bus stop is Gjirokaster …

Berat and Gjirokastra are two towns in Central Albania, located some 150 km apart. Their strength lies in vernacular urban housing and monuments from the Classical Ottoman period. Both are also towns that developed in and around a citadel. Gjirokastra is locally called Gjirokaster, the -kastra comes from the Northern Albanian dialect. It first became a WHS on its own in 2005, while Berat was added as an extension 3 years later.

I started my visit to this WHS in Gjirokaster, en route from Butrint to Tirana. I arrived by bus in the Lower Town and decided to walk up to the historical area. It does look like a steep climb, but it takes only 20 minutes and it awards one with great views of the rows of tower houses Gjirokaster is known for. The historic center has a real authentic feel and I had a great time staying there overnight. This was further enhanced by local son Ismail Kadare's Chronicle in Stone, which I was reading. He describes life as a child in Gjirokaster during World War II. At that time it was a city with so many mosques "you could walk down the street, stretch your arm, and hang your hat on a minaret".

A few among Gjirokaster’s 200 tower houses are open to visitors. The Ethnographic Museum has interesting displays on how people lived, though the building itself is a modern reconstruction (on the site of the birth house of the other famous native, Enver …

Berat: The fortress area is spacious, but very good to roam on foot. The view from above is very nice, there were only a few other visitors there, so you could really look at everything in peace. The small museum is also worth seeing, but it costs extra. There are offered for sale very beautiful even embroidered tablecloths.

Gjirokastra: I highly recommend a visit. In my opinion it is the most beautiful city in Albania. Marvel at the old streets, houses covered with stone. This medieval atmosphere... You can visit the castle, which houses a military museum and a few old houses. You can stay overnight in one of the inns, to feel the atmosphere of Albania.

I recently travelled through Albania by bus from Ulcinj (Montenegro) to Sarande stopping in Skodra, Tirane, Berat and Gjirokastra along the way.

The road to Berat from Lushinje was the bumpiest of the journey, about 30 kms. The old town of Berat had much to offer in the way of churches, mosques and a monastery, as well as the castled perched above a cliff overlooking the whole region.

Similarly the view from the citadel of Gjirokastra extended over the whole Drina valley. The museum in the citadel contains quite an arsenal of old weapons, together with a captured US spy plane from the Cold War era.

I was in Gjirokastra just one day before it was proclaimed a world heritage site.My first impressions on the city were very complex, but one thought stayed in my mind during the whole trip, what was it like to live there 200 years ago, who were the people that lived in those magical and mystical houses, and what did the great castle witness during centuries of war. The city spoke of greatness and the stone houses together with the amazing view of the mountains and valleys, reflected the character of the people there. Amazing,rigid, mystical,friendly, this was Gjirokastra in one day for me.