Aphrodisias

Western Turkey is dotted with stunning Greco Roman archaeological sites. It's a bit like Maya ruins in Yucatan. Take a look at the many tentative sites of Turkey, count how many mention an amphitheatre or a forum, and you will understand.

And similar to the Maya ruins in Yucatan, you start to wonder where to draw the line? Does each and every well preserved site deserve a spot on the list? Or should it just be the exceptional ones?

With this in mind, I made my way from Denzili to Aphrodisias by cab. It was late December, completely offseason. When we turned off the main road in Tavas, there was no more traffic and the area became very rural and very quiet quickly; probably a reason why the site is so well preserved.

On site, I was the first visitor that day. The site itself is fairly large and as I understand not fully excavated. But what was is on display is impressive and well preserved. Most will state the stadium to be the preeminent site. The Turkish authorities claim it to be the largest remaining Roman stadium. It is nice, but Messini in Greece felt it's equal in size and preservation.

Overall, the site is very consistent and large. I think it's a fine addition. Let's see how many more Greco Roman ruins in Turkey will make the cut.

Getting There

Aphrodisias is a bit off the beaten path with no major town …

I visited this WHS in Spring 2021 as an early day trip from Pamukkale. Unlike some other WHS and tWHS with a few or no intact remains, Aphrodisias has many monumental remains that are more or less intact and in very good condition. Even the huge amount of statues in the museum are in very good condition when compared to those in other museums which usually are missing some of their body parts.

Aphrodisias is quite a large WHS and even if you opt for a quick visit you'll surely need a couple of hours to cover the main sites and the excellent museum well. Ever since the tetrapylon of Palmyra was destroyed, I set my eyes on visiting the tetrapylon of Aphrodisias. The best time for photograpy is in the early morning when the sunlight shines on the intricate details of the remaining decoration of the tetrapylon. The monumental gateway built around 200 AD stands at the end of an ancient road that leads from the main north-south street of the town into a large forecourt in front of the Sanctuary or Temple of Aphrodite. The character of the temple building was altered when it became a Christian basilica. This temple was a focal point of the town. The Aphrodisian sculptors became renowned and benefited from a plentiful supply of marble. Many full-length statues were discovered in the region of the agora, and trial and unfinished pieces pointing to a true school are in evidence near the site …

Aphrodisias is a rather pleasant detour from Pamukkale to Ephesus. I assume getting there by public transport is a hassle, so go there by rental. The site is easily found. Go for Aphrodisias Museum in Google Maps. It’s around 300m off the main road. Free parking is available and to my surprise the parking lot had quite a lot of cars parked. The site itself includes the museum (no extra fee), where the most precious pieces of marble are in exposition. The archeological remains are nice, but not the best I’ve seen so far. Even though founded as a Greek city, most buildings are Roman. Highlights are the stadium (see Solivagants picture) and the temple of Aphrodite, that was later turned into a church.

Aphrodisias is apparently scheduled by Turkey for nomination in 2017. We were in nearby Denizli to visit the inscribed site of Pamukkale/Hierapolis and were then driving down to the Selcuk area for Ephesus. So, at only 34 kms south off the direct route, it seemed worth taking in - even if we were hitting our “interest limits” on seeing Classical ruins! It turned out to be a worthwhile site, quite apart from that potential WHS “tick” banked for the future! What is less clear to me is how Turkey is deciding which of its many T List sites from this era are going forward next and how many more such cities the List can take!

Aphrodisias has been a sacred site dating back into prehistory and in Greek times, developed as a shrine to Aphrodite, after whom it became named in 2nd/3rd C BC. The Romans conquered the area in the 1st C BC and the city was favoured by them because of its Venus/Aphrodite connections. Augustus, in particular, granted it a range of privileges declaring it “the one city in all of Asia I have selected to be my own”. The city is/was particularly famous for its sculpture – close by are quarries which yield a beautiful white and gray marble. As a result, the city became something of an artistic and cultural hub. During the Byzantine era the Shrine of Aphrodite was turned into a Christian Basilica and remains from this era constitute part of what is “on …