Altamira Cave

There is a lottery to get to see the real cave but we didn’t plan far enough in advance or wasn’t lucky enough to see it. 

I have to say I was expecting to be disappointed by the replica cave but they did a pretty good job. 

My only recommendation would be to skip the movie. Took too long and was uninteresting. I talked to the docent and they said it was possible. 

I visited Altamira as part of my mad dash across souther France and northern Spain in April 2018. I was intrigued by the opportunity, that Altamira museum has been practising for the past couple of years, to visit the original Altamira cave.

I stayed at nearby town Santillana del Mar, which in itself is very picturesque sight and boasts church Collegiale de Santa Juliana from 12th century which is part of the inscribed routes of Santiago de Compostela WHS.

In the morning I drove to the museum of Altamira (2 km away) at the opening time 09:30, where a decent crowd was already stepping anxiously in front of the gate. It was the day of the Lottery.

The Lottery works like this: Every Friday everyone above the age of 16, who bought a ticket to the museum between 09:30 and 10:30 is eligible to participate. You need to read and agree to the conditions (for example that you will change into special protective clothing, will not touch anything or take pictures of anything, etc.), fill in a short form with your name, passport/national ID number and telephone and toss it into good old fashioned draw box. Five lucky winners then get to visit the original cave.

If you have arrived at 09:30 you have plenty of time to view the replica of the cave and visit the rest of the museum. 

At approximately 10:40 the draw begins and the suspense is intense. It reminded me of times at university when …

In the winter of 1964, a friend and I hitchhiked along the northern coast of Spain with the goal of seeing Altamira cave. We were dropped off and walked about 1/4 mile to the site, only to see sign saying in Spanish, "Closed for the season." After we had lingered there sadly for a few minutes, an old man came out of a nearby dwelling with a big flashlight and said, "I'll show it to you." He unlocked the door and took us in. This was the most sublime experience of art in my life. The drama of the buffalo raging across the ceiling [and perfectly adapted to the bulges of the stone] moved and impressed me. The thrill I felt has scarcely subsided after 50 years.

I visited this WHS in August 2014. After learning that the Altamira Cave was closed to the public and that it was only possible to visit the replica museum, I decided to make a reservation online to visit the group of caves of El Castilo, Las Monedas and Las Chimeneas inscribed together with Altamira. I opted for the first visit in the morning on a weekday to avoid tour groups and indeed I was lucky. The guided visit was in Spanish but I was able to follow the gist of what the guide was saying and anyway my main purpose was to visit the actual caves and to see the original paleolithic art illuminated by the guide's torch. The main highlight of the El Castilo cave were the hand impressions while the highlight of the other caves were animal paintings of deer and bisons. Photography is not allowed but I managed to take a short video of the hand impressions as I exited the cave and a couple of photos too which I'll treasure knowing that sooner rather than later the original caves will have to be closed to the public to avoid damage caused by fungi diseases. I enjoyed my visit mostly because I managed to see the original paleolithic art this time round, however I must say that the Lascaux cave drawings are more elaborate (even though what you see is a replica).

I visited Altamira in the late 60's and for the price of the equivalent of $3US hired an official guide for a day who took me through all the locations open to tourists which were stunning beyond ones imagination and a very spiritual experience.

We then proceeded to go deeper into the complex with our own flashlights and crawled through fissures and saw petroglyphs and finger drawings in the mud floor.

I have seem many cave drawings in South Africa and France but the Hall of Paintings is only second to Lascaux,

A truely marvellous experience

While living in Germany from 1969 through 1977, my wife and I travelled extensively througout Europe. On one of our trips in the early 70's, we drove north from Madrid toward Santander, intending to follow the northern coastline back into France. Early one morning by chance I happened to notice a small sign referring to the Altamira caves. On a whim we pulled into the indicated parking lot and waited an hour or so for the elderly guide to show up for the morning's first tour.

No more than a dozen of us took the tour. I must say it was one of the most moving experiences of my life and certainly a highlight of our time living in Europe. I remember entering a relatively large anteroom near the front of the cave and then being led back into a much smaller chamber. (I only recall one chamber beyond the anteroom, though there probably were more.) A path had been dug out around the walls leaving a waist-high (or perhaps chest-high) plateau in the middle of the room that we had to squeeze around.

Although I had seen photographs in the past of cave drawings, I was completely unprepared for the impact the originals had upon me. What struck me most was how creatively the artist(s) exploited the contours of the wall. In a two-dimensional photograph you get no sense how the bulges in the rock surface were incorporated quite imaginatively and intricately into the bodies of the various animals.

…

I visited the Cave of Altamira while traveling in Europe with two friends in 1968. We rented a car in Paris, traveled the length of Spain and finished up in Lisbon. One of my companions, who taught Spanish at a university in Virginia, suggested that we take in Altamira and another cave (probably El Castillo, since it was not far away)during our stay in San Sebastian.

As I recall some forty years later, visiting the Altamira cave was very easy - i.e., it apparently was not a big tourist site at that time. Somewhere among my belongings, I have a postcard of one of the figures in the cave, but I think I purchased it in Santillana del Mar rather than on the site. In any event, the three of us had a private showing. A grizzled old man took our money and then led us in. I remember being grateful that it did not require going underground. Once inside, I was of course in awe, not only of the age of the paintings, but also of the delicacy and skill with which they had been executed. I think we tend to look down on our distant ancestors as primitive and stupid, but cave paintings like those at Altamira remind us that they were not. The artistic impulse was alive and well. Most modern art makes me think that we have regressed rather than advanced - a case of too much head and not enough heart.

Of the El Castillo …

After reading Els disappointment with a visit to the new copy of Altamira which correlated with some friends experiences, I decided to forgo a trip along to Cantabria and instead visited one of the Western most inscribed caves, Tito Bustillo, which was regarded as one of the four most important in the inscription.

This was my first cognisant visit to a cave art site, so I don’t have much to compare it with, however I was massively impressed by the examples I saw. It was a long walk (1km) through a rather impressive cave, displaying all of the features one would expect, stalagmites/tites etc. We then got to a dark section of the cave and our guide shuffled us into position, she then shone her torch on the art and I must admit I joined in when the rest of the group gasped. The depictions of animals were limited but very impressive. Our guide proceeded to give a very thorough explanation (in Spanish, but I got the gist, and the movement of the torchlight made it very easy to follow) and show that there were many other faint representations with-in the gallery.

Unfortunately it is not possible to reach the ‘Cave of Vulvas’ for which Tito Bustillo is particularly renowned (one of the earliest examples of art with sexual motivations), we were shown the access point to the cave system in which it lies and without proper caving equipment and a very bendy body it is inaccessible. This was a …

When I first became aware that there exists such a thing as 'World Heritage', the Altamira Cave rose quickly to the very top on my list to visit. Such a magnificent, but also exclusive, site. You had to pre-book a visit 3 years before! One day I’ll go there, I thought. I’ll just reserve a spot and travel there to see this work of art. But what happened? The cave got closed to the general public entirely in 2001!

Years and years (and many WHS) later, I stayed for a couple of days in Llanes, a town close enough for a trip to Altamira. One can visit only a replica nowadays, and since 2008 other paleolithic caves in the area have been added to this particular WHS. So the Altamira Cave isn’t so unique anymore. However, I noticed on the official Altamira website that it is even possible / recommended to pre-book your visit to the replica cave too!

On a Saturday in August, I decided to take my chances and just show up. I arrived at 9.50, early enough to beat most of the Spanish who don’t seem to get going before 11 a.m. Buying a ticket was no problem then. Entrance to the museum is free, and you pay 3 EUR for visiting the replica cave. You’re only allowed into this what they call ‘New Cave’ at a fixed timeslot, in groups of about 40-50 in a 10-minute interval. They do build up the expectations with …