The first thing that surprised and slightly disappointed me was that no one checked my visa for visiting Mount Athos anywhere.

By 5:30 a.m., there was already a huge line outside the office that issues visas to pilgrims. Visas are issued fairly quickly, so by 6:15 a.m., I was able to get one. I immediately bought a ticket for the 6:30 ferry at the ticket office next to the pilgrims' office. The ticket costs €8. It takes about five minutes to walk to the ferry. No one asked for or checked my visa either at the ticket office or on the ferry.

Even though it had been raining all morning, the ferry to Daphne stopped three or four times at different stops. We finally arrived in Daphne at 9:00 AM. And even here, no one asked for a visa: it was truly disappointing...

Google indicated that the walk to Xeropotoma Monastery should take two hours, but completely by chance I discovered a very convenient stone-paved path that took me to the monastery in 30 minutes. The monastery was closed, but I could explore it from the outside and take some good photos. My path then led to the capital of Mount Athos and the monastery of Klouthmonosi. Unfortunately, the rain continued to pour, and my route (according to Google) included both paved roads and dirt paths. It took me two and a half hours to reach the capital on foot. I didn't encounter a single pilgrim the entire time: they all traveled comfortably in cars and buses. Being neither a religious person nor a pilgrim, I actually made a real pilgrimage in the rain before reaching the monastery. The monastery courtyard was open, as was the main church. The interior was reminiscent of the monasteries in Rila (Bulgaria) and Horezu (Romania), both on the WHS list. The architecture, the style, the frescoes—everything was the same as those two monasteries. I saw nothing interesting or unusual. It took me about 20 minutes to explore Karyes and its main church on Mount Athos. Several supermarkets and a couple of restaurants are located here. I was lucky: in the town's main parking lot, I spotted a bus carrying pilgrims to Iveron Monastery, where I had previously booked an overnight stay. The monastery was a replica of two others I had already visited that day, so it also made no impression on me. Imagine my surprise when they mixed up the dates at the monastery, and my overnight stay was booked for the next day. I was advised to try to find a free room at two hotels in the capital. Luckily, the bus hadn't left yet, so I took it straight back to Karyes. Unfortunately, both hotels were fully booked.

If the weather had been fine and not raining, I might have tried sleeping outside, but the slush, wet shoes, and wet clothes forced me to make a drastic decision: return to Daphne to catch the 3:45 ferry. The taxi driver asked €50, I offered €40, and he agreed. The ferry didn't stop anywhere on the way back, and we sailed to Ouranoupolis in an hour.

Mount Athos is extremely overated, the monasteries are beautifully modernized, the monks are unfriendly and unwelcoming, and the prices in restaurants and supermarkets are high. Taxi is very expencive. I didn't feel any spiritualy there. Overall, a day is enough to visit Athos for both cultural and touristic purposes.

Every cloud has a silver lining when it comes to preparation: I was very glad that it was the rain that forced me to leave this place and return.

My advice to all men who would like to visit Mount Athos. Don't waste time applying for and obtaining a visa. Take a chance: buy a ticket for the 6:30 a.m. ferry and board. Worst-case scenario, you'll lose €8; best-case scenario, you'll get to visit this overated destination.