After a long day on the Sangha River from Oesso, we arrived at Dzanga-Sangha National Park we arrived at eight o’clock, the last leg in darkness. The speedboat journey through untouched nature, passing isolated villages and local fishermen, was serene and surreal - we encountered only one motorized boat the entire day.

Our stay was at Doli Lodge, managed by WWF and beautifully situated on the Sangha River. The lodge exceeded expectations and offered more comfort than its counterpart in Odzala-Congo. Though the original plan was for four nights, it was shortened to three due to the temporary suspension of gorilla trekking. The unfortunate loss of the last silverback means the groups need time to stabilize. However, the park has much more to offer.

Day 1:The day began with a visit to Dzanga Bai, the most famous mineral-rich clearing in the area. A 45 minutes drive, then a 40-minute easy walk, including a river crossing, brought us to this magical spot. As we arrived, around 120 forest elephants of different sizes and colors were gathered on the plain. What a sight!. It was mesmerizing to sit in the observation tower and watch their coming and going. They even have their own spa treatment covering themselves in golden mud. Researchers counted up to 144 elephants at its peak, an unparalleled wildlife experience. Late in the afternoon, a family of forest hogs made an appearance. At four o’clock, we returned to the lodge for a cold beer and a sunset over the Sangha River. Truly, a day to remember!

Day 2: Our second day was spent with the Ba’Aka community, often referred to as pygmies. Although smaller in height, their vibrant personalities and rich culture left a lasting impression. The day began with a visit to a local village, where a lively selection process determined which of the villagers would join us. They all jumped on the back of the jeep and we ventured into the rainforest accompanied by songs and laughter.  The hunt for red duikers involved setting nets, making noise, and hoping for success? They were so efficient to put up and take down the net. Along the way, we learned about the forest: plants for water, building shelters, and medicinal trees. Their genuine joy and connection to the jungle were infectious, making the experience authentic and unforgettable.

In the afternoon , we returned to the village for a cultural performance, starting with an incredible display of water drumming on the river - a mesmerizing rhythm created from splashing water. The village dance later on felt less natural compared to the forest but still provided a fascinating glimpse into Ba’Aka life. The day was both an adventure and a privilege, offering insight into their challenging yet resourceful way of life. According to several media the life expectancy is very low, only 35 years, so they live a though life. 

Three nights/two days felt too short. The rainforest of the Congo Basin is magical - remote, untouched, and teeming with life. Though gorilla trekking was unavailable, the experience of Dzanga Bai and the Ba’Aka people made this trip truly unique. In addition, this must be one of the most remote places we have been and definitely worth the effort to get there. 

Practical Information

This journey was organized by our friends in Old Explorer (www.oldexplorer.com), experts in planning African adventures. We were fortunate to join a pilot tour combining Odzala-Kokoua National Park and Dzanga-Sangha, starting from Brazzaville.

Access: Reaching Doli Lodge required a full day by boat from Oesso (Congo). The lodge facilitated the boat ride and the necessary visa for the Central African Republic. Els mentioned other ways of reaching the park

Note: Gorilla trekking is currently suspended, with an estimated resumption in about a year