Unlike most of the year, November in Spain in general and more specifically in Galicia is anything but dry. It rains frequently and heavily. Which is a pleasant surprise if you packed no serious hiking gear and plan to visit the Canon del Sil. Luckily, I had already noted a few days prior in Madrid that my luggage and the weather did not match and made a short visit to the local shopping mall.

Main focus of my trip were the many inscribed sites of Northern Spain. With the Ribeira Sacra scheduled in the next year, I made an effort to visit.

The train line from Monforte de Lemos to Ourense cuts right through the proposed core zone and follows the Sil for a few kilometers. I took a morning train to Santo Estevo. When I exited the train, it was already clear that I would get soaked.

From the train station, I walked a little to the bridge across the Sil. The views with the clouds covering the canyon were stunning. I then hiked up to the Monastery Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil where I visited the church, before descending again.

OUV

Disclaimer: Nowadays, I wouldn't bet against Spain. Even if neither me nor ICOMOS can spot OUV. So take my judgement with a grain of salt.

With that out of the way, I have to say that the landscape was great and I would have enjoyed spending more time (with less rain) exploring the area. But Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil itself was nothing to dial home about. Part of it has been converted to a modern hotel (Parador = Spanish state hotel). I am not sure if the other locations are better; if so, I could see the monastery being struck from the inscription. If the monastery is already the best component, I would not favor a cultural inscription. I could see a stronger case, for a mixed nomination; the scenery around San Estevo Do Sil is pretty stunning.

Getting There

The two major towns of the area are Monforte de Lemos and Ourense. Both towns are well connected by bus and train.

I visited from Monforte as a day trip. The bus station and the train station in Monforte are North of the town center and require some walking. You can catch multiple buses a day to Lugo (Monbus). Several trains go to Ourense (West) and Ponferrada (East).

The designated area is really rural. Trains run along the Canon from Monforte to Ourense regularly, but only stop at San Estevo Do Sil twice a day: in the morning from Monforte, in the evening going back. Indeed, the train conductor was a bit surprised to see where I wanted to get off; I was the only one and it was raining heavily. Note: San Estevo Do Sil is really rural, no cafes, no nothing. Bring everything you need. Don't expect to get a ride back, some hiking will be needed.

From the train station, you need to cross the river via a car bridge and follow the road for a while, till you reach a sign post. From there, you follow a trail up to the monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil. A nice hike. Google maps does not know the trail.

On my return, I hiked to Sober (there is a second foot bridge). The views at the Mirador a Pena do Conde were very nice. I think if it hadn't been really cloudy, I would have gotten good views of the monastery. From Sober, I took a cab back to Monforte. And from there took a bus to Lugo. 

While You Are There

Monforte seems to be part of the Camino or some Camino derivative. If you travel in the area, you quickly lose sight of what is and what isn't on the Camino. I saw the shell imprinted on the road in town.

Lugo with its Roman Walls is close. As are Las Medullas, Santiago, and A Coruna.