When the Korean War started, the North Koreans quickly conquered the northern parts of South Korea. Seoul being very close to the border fell in 3 days (June 28, 1950, after the invasion began on June 25). To organise their defenses and continue the government, Busan, the 2nd largest city of South Korea and located the furthest from the front lines, became temporary capital from August 18, 1950 to August 14, 1953. Apart from the government many Koreans also fled from the frontlines to Busan, to evade the fighting. Due to its harbour, Busan also became the military centre, specifically of the US Americans.

The proposed nomination combines government, military and refugee sites across the city. We managed to visit several locations across Busan. On our first day, we visited the Tombstone Village. The next day, we started the day at the UN Cemetery, then took a bus to the Cowshed Village, from there we went by bus to the Temporary Palace and the Temporary Parliament (a university and museum) and peeked in at the former US Embassy, now a library. We ended our day in the former US base, Camp Hialeah, not the Busan Citizens' Park.

The Koreans do a rather good job of making the sites and the history accessible. Even the Cowshed Village has a public museum providing context (it seems CugelVance missed that one, it's marked on the map).

The president's temporary palace provides a very detailed recounting of the executive affairs of the government. Only the American remains, the Embassy and the army camp felt not very authenticate as too many changes have been done.

OUV

With the decision by UNESCO and its members to accept dark history sites, my general objection to Busan and sites like it is off the table. If dark history (or as UNECSO refers to them: Sites of recent conflict) are valid world heritage sites, Busan would fit the bill. It tells very concretely the story of the refugees of the Korean War; the tomb stones as building blocks being a striking image when you first see them.

Personally, I would argue that the UN Cemetery would warrant an inscription in any case. The Korean War was the first UN War and a key building block in our modern world order.

Getting There

Busan is Korea's second largest city and fairly easy to get to. Personally, I would consider making Busan your entry point into Korea as it has an international airport and it's not quite as overwhelming as Seoul.

In our case, we flew in from Jeju and left by train to Ulsan. In Busan itself, all sites can be reached by bus or metro.

While You Are There

Busan is a really pleasant place. A visit to the Jagalchi Fish Market market (the world's second largest) is a must. Most tourists will also tick off the Gamcheon Culture Village, which is fun but a bit too crowded. In typical tourist fashion, they will skip the Tombstone Village just across the street from the arrival bus stop.

You can visit a location of the Gaya Tumuli in Gimhae, a suburb of Busan. We did so on our first day in Busan. If you arrive by plane, the airport is actually named Gimhae, so it can make sense to go to the Tumuli first, before heading to the city.

To the North are Tongdosa Temple, a Sansa site, and the Petroglyphs of Ulsan. Both can be combined as a day trip from Busan. Or as stop on your way to Gyeong-ju. I would not stay in Ulsan though (see Els' review).