First published: 30/09/25.

marc Rouserez

Chemins de St-Jacques de Compostelle en France

Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France (Inscribed)

By crisscrossing France in all directions every other year in summer, of the 78 places listed on the site of the Way of St. James of Compostela in France, I visited 33, some before showing interest in UNESCO, and others even before they were listed.

So I will only highlight here those that are a favorite, without mentioning the 4 places also listed elsewhere that I have already visited:

Le Puy-en-Velay, Haute-Loire :

Cathédrale du Puy-en-Velay
Cathédrale du Puy-en-Velay marc Rouserez

Le Puy-en-Velay is the starting point of the Way of St. James via Podiensis.
We had the chance to visit Le Puy as a family on August 15th, the feast day of Mary, patron saint of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Le Puy-en-Velay, and witnessed a candle-lit procession through the town's streets, where the Black Virgin is carried by white penitents in a wooden shrine.
Le Puy is an impressive place because it is so special, with not only the magnificent Romanesque cathedral built between the 5th and 12th centuries overlooking the city but also the Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe chapel perched on a volcanic peak and a huge modern statue of Mary on another rocky peak. It is easy to imagine pilgrims climbing up to the main porch of the cathedral at the very top of the street... It is special in that it is, to my knowledge, the only cathedral with two floors; when you enter the porch, you arrive in the middle of the main nave by a staircase! It is a strange feeling to enter a cathedral like this. There are also magnificent Romanesque wrought iron gates in the cloister, which is rare, and an old door upholstered in leather, which is also rare. The Hôtel-Dieu is just below the cathedral; it was closed on the day we visited; August 15 is a public holiday in France.
From a practical point of view, for sleeping on site, there is a small pleasant campsite at the foot of the rocky peak of the Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe chapel. A word of advice: in summer, arrive early to find a place. The surrounding landscapes are also magnificent and don't hesitate to taste these famous green lentils in town: a delight!

Saint-Jean-pied-de-port, Pyrénées atlantiques:

Citadel of St-Jean-Pied-De-Port
St-Jean-Pied-De-Port marc Rouserez

The word "port" in the village's name means a pass. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is the last French stop before the Camino de Santiago in Spain, passing through the Roncevaux Pass. Just hearing the word Roncevaux brings to mind the protagonists of Roland's song. As far as we're concerned, the village is a perfect stopover on the road south, and we've stopped there many times, which has allowed us to see the evolution of pilgrimage to the place, which, it seems to me, has increased in recent years. It's amusing to see pilgrims queuing up in front of their lodgings for the night. From the snatches of conversation I've heard, it's best to book in advance!
But be careful not to confuse the Notre-Dame gate with the St-Jacques gate, which is listed: the St-Jacques gate is located at the top of the village and is practically insignificant compared to the Notre-Dame gate on the banks of the Nive. A single steep street connects the two gates. It is also worth taking a long tour of the ramparts and the citadel and observing the Pyrenean landscapes from them.
From a practical point of view, for those not walking the path, there is not only a very pleasant campsite at the foot of the ramparts but also a campervan area a little higher up. As with Le Puy, it is best to arrive early.

Sainte-Foy de Conques, Aveyron: THE favorite !

The village of Conques-en-Velay
The village of Conques-en-Velay marc Rouserez

For those traveling by campsite, there is one just below the village along the Dourdou. It is even possible to see the bridge over the Dourdou by taking a short digestive walk in the evening before going to bed. What I highly recommend is to follow in the footsteps of the pilgrims by walking up to the village from the bridge. It is a climb, but it is worth it because the abbey church only reveals itself once you reach the very top. Sitting at the café located in front of the abbey church and examining the details of the 12th century sculpted porch while sipping a refreshing drink is a pure delight. You will spend hours observing the details as there are so many and you will not be alone: ​​it is also the meeting place for the pilgrims, their lodging is located just behind the abbey church.
One cannot talk about the Conques Abbey without mentioning the work of the painter Pierre Soulages, who designed the stained-glass windows between 1986 and 1994. In this regard, a short excursion to Rodez to see his works in the museum dedicated to him is a must. It discusses his work in the abbey, for which he developed a new white glazing.


L'abbatiale St-Pierre de Moissac, Tarn-et-Garonne:

The cloister of the abbey church of Moissac
The cloister of the abbey church of Moissac marc Rouserez

And there too, opposite the village, on the other bank of the Tarn, a magnificent campsite where you can settle in for the night! The Romanesque abbey church of Moissac and its cloister built between 1063 AD and 1100 AD are an anthology of Romanesque sculptures that could not be more expressive! I highly recommend that you visit it with a guide who will be happy to explain almost every capital. The highlight of the "show" is the trumeau of the main portal of the abbey church which represents the prophet Jeremiah. It is a very beautiful and rather rare sculpture.

In conclusion, despite all the more or less interesting buildings I visited along the Way of St. James, I would be fully satisfied if I had checked off at least one of the last 6 sites on the official list of the Unesco web page which are portions of the Way itself, but I have not done so yet. I believe that this is the sine qua non condition to be able to say that one has responded meaningfully to the complete visit of this multiple site. Maybe in another life? There's so much to see...

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