I certainly share the previous reviewers enthusiasm that Unjusa is special. I am also happy that this site created such a positive response within our community, in fact this is why it became a must-see site for my recent visit to Korea. The truth is ten years ago I had no idea this temple existed and it remains largely unknown within Korea. Recently, along with the Hwasun Dolmens it became part of the Mudeungsan Global Geopark. One thing is clear Unjusa is beginning to get more attention domestically and internationally.

The BEST Temple in Korea?

Where I diverge a bit, I do not think (if inscribed) it will be Korea's best cultural heritage site. Namsan Mountain (Gyeongju) alone has far more stone pagodas then Unjusa, all of them older. With respect, I would make the claim the historic value and diversity of treasures that comprise the Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries makes it largely incomparable with Unjusa (12 National Treasures to 0). Though I suspect 1-2 treasures at Unjusa will be elevated to the highest designation in the future. Furthermore, all seven Sansa are well-documented throughout the centuries, whereas Unjusa remains largely a mystery. In fact, its mostly missing from the historical record until the early 16th century, less than a century before the temple was burned and left in ruins by Japanese invaders.

In some ways Unjusa is an anomaly and the mystery is alluring. There are plenty of claims about a specific feature at Unjusa as 'the only example in Korea' or indeed the World. Despite the temples outstanding and unique qualities this may actually make inscription more difficult. No origin date, no revered monks, no outstanding historic wooden buildings, no national treasures, and no measurable example where Unjusa influenced other temples on the Korean Peninsula. Are the stone buddhas lined up at various areas (for visitors to admire) placed there before the temples destruction or centuries later? No one seems to know.

Worthy of Inscription?

What is potentially worthy of inscription? Perhaps the exceptional grouping of stone Buddha statues and pagodas. The blending of Esoteric Buddhism, Taoism, and astronomy. The unconventional organization and features of the temple (geometric patterns, the quarry). The most distinctive feature of Unjusa may simply be it breaks with convention and is singularly different.

Origins during Mongol Rule?

While Unjusa seems to have emerged during the Goryeo period, its important to note the Mongol's invaded Korea during this time. From 1270 to 1356 Goryeo was under Mongol rule as a semi-autonomous vassal state. While the Mongol's were eventually forced out of the Korean peninsula within 100 years, the fact that Unjusa's origins seem to align with this time period further adds to the mystery of Korea's most unconventional temple.

Public Transportation

From Gwangju U-Square I took bus 318 to Unjusa. I kept it simple. I used the 318 bus on two separate days to Hwasun Dolmen and Unjusa the following day. Basically, two half-day trips. I wanted simplification and I wished to avoid the anxiety of infrequent buses and unduly limiting my time. The bus times posted at the Gwangju bus terminal are accurate, the bus arrived within 5 minutes of the scheduled time on each occasion. On NAVER the bus duration time will likely say 1.5 to 2.5 hours, but in my experience it was far shorter, because some of the route is skipped. I arrived at Hwasun Dolmen in about 50 minutes. The next day, it took about 1 hr and 10 minutes to arrive at Unjusa.

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