First published: 17/02/10.

Kyle Magnuson 3.5

Enigmatic Tomb Guardians

Royal Joseon Tombs (Inscribed)

I have visited nearly all clusters of this serial world heritage site. Additionally, my first visit was in 2008 (before inscription) and I've visited many additional tomb clusters since. Pre-inscription there was generally less restrictions for visitors, in fact I remember walking right up to the tumuli amongst the stone animals and standing face to face with the tomb guardians. While this was not possible at all locations I visited at the time, it seemed generally 'allowed' that you could get closer (though obviously a certain respect was expected from visitors around the burial area). Despite how access has changed regarding the burial area, I still enjoy visiting each tomb cluster.

For me, the Tomb Guardians (Muninseok) have long been a highlight to photograph. Korea has other memorable human statues with the dol hareubang on Jeju Island, but the Muninseok of the Joseon Tombs stand out as special with their own appeal and charm.

Tomb Guardians
Tomb Guardians Kyle Magnuson

What will you see and what should you take note of as you visit a Joseon Royal Tomb? A bonus memento is the entrance ticket that is specific to the tomb you are visiting.

Entrance Area - Typically a pleasant natural landscape, you will see a small stream and the tomb keeper's house. Near a few of these houses are historic, protected trees, sometimes centuries old.

Ceremonial Area - This is where the worship road leads to the T-shaped shrine. As you approach the shrine, you should be able to see the tumuli above and a stele shed adjacent to the red building.

Burial Area - The approach to the tumuli is lined by enigmatic tomb guardians (pictured), soldiers and civil officials. The burial mounds vary in size, stonework, and number (single, double, triple).

Visitors typically spend 20-40 minutes at smaller tomb clusters and around an hour for larger clusters that may include a small museum. About half of the tomb clusters are accessible by public transportation, including a few subway stations that share the name with the nearby tomb. I don't think you need to overthink which tomb clusters to visit, but try to visit more than one.

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