On the first day of July, early afternoon, rain pouring, we arrived at Ulsan Petroglyphs Museum. Once I entered the museum (in part as shelter), I was immediately impressed. This history lesson will be different than most museums or historic sites in Korea. Nothing about Confucianism, Buddhism, seowon, fortresses, or tombs!

The museum really is fantastic, sure not much is in English, but the replica copies of both petroglyphs are superb. The video in the small theater is informative and quite dramatic, some English. The museum is where you should start, it probably takes 30 to 45 minutes. After the museum you have two choices.

1) 1.2km hike to Bangudae Petroglyphs

2) 1.2km hike to the Petroglyphs in Cheonjeon-ri

Because of the heavy rain and a warning that Cheonjeon-ri in this rain could be dangerous, the museum staff recommended the short hike to Bangudae Cliff. The walk is very pleasant, and quite scenic along the Daegokcheon Stream (even a small spot with dinosaur footprints). Once you are in view of Bangudae cliff, there are high zoom installed binoculars. Since you are on the opposite side of the stream, the distance makes seeing the petroglyphs difficult (especially in heavy rain). With my new camera (40X zoom) I could see them fairly well, but high zoom + heavy rain does not equal great pictures. The picture below is from the replica inside the museum, but several of my pictures were focused on this scene, and with zoom I could just make it out.

Despite the challenges, and partly because of them, Daegokcheon Stream will remain memorable. Its also different than almost any other historic site in Korea. The scenes of whales, and its age of more than 5,000 years is quite unique. I suspect I will revisit the site in the future. I did feel Korea's Neolithic and bronze age cultures come alive here, more so than at Korea's dolmen sites.

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