First published: 04/04/25.

Jarek Pokrzywnicki 1

Tilaurakot-Kapilavastu

Tilaurakot-Kapilavastu (Nominated)

Tilaurakot-Kapilavastu by Jarek Pokrzywnicki

Site visited in November, 2024.

Nepali proposal for inscription in 2026. Once a capital of ancient Shakya capital city where Siddhartha Gautam spent his princely life before he became Lord Buddha. According to data presented on information board at the entrance Tilaurakot is the best preserved Early Historic city and hinterland in South Asia. Occupied between 900 BC and 1000 AC. Archaeologists revealed remains of early village transformed in the 6 century BC (Kushan Period) into a fortified grid-planned city with many later structures (temples, houses, palaces) constructed in brick. Development continued in the first millennium AD forming central walled complex, a large brick-lined pond in the middle of the city together with multiple residential and monastic structures around an industrial suburbs beyond city walls. The complex was rediscovered in 1890 and identified as ancient capital of Shakya Kingdom associated with Siddhartha Gautam.

The site looks well prepared for being a UNESCO heritage, partly fenced, well marked with information panels in Nepalese and English. Area within city walls is equipped with wooden walkways. The most important landmarks are: partly reconstructed town walls, Eastern Gate (where according to tradition Buddha started his journey of spiritual enlightenment), temple of Samai Mai with elephants statues, central pond and central structural complex. All monuments (except the temple that looks new and still in use) are preserved in similar style like in Lumbini. If you have time you can also see the remnants of twin stupas (outside the complex – leave the side towards the Eastern Gate and turn left. Tilaurakot seems to be a local pilgrimage center for Buddhists (during my stay I saw several organised groups).

Practicalities: site is located some 40 km from Lumbini and around 4 km from the small town of Kapilvastu (connected by local public buses from Lumbini). Entrance - google coordinates 27.576107869087192, 83.05260715827669. More comfortably it is easy to organize a transport from Lumbini. Any hotel can arrange a private car with a driver for around 2500 – 3000 Nepali rupees (including waiting time on the place – it is currently around 19-22 USD). On the spot it is a small parking space just outside the Western Gate of archaeological site. Currently the site can be visited free of charge (quite unusual for Nepal), probably that will change after inscription.

In Lumbini there are hundreds of different accommodation options (different standard). I stayed in Lumbini Hotel (good enough but rather budget place) located conveniently close to Gate 5 to Lumbini complex. There are lots of different restaurants in the area. To get to Lumbini I used a flight from Kathmandu (Yeti Airlines, Bhairahawa Airport, Gautam Buddha International Airport, BWA, 75 USD one way). From the airport to Lumbini  - you can use taxi – negotiate the price.

Places on the photo, bottom left, than clockwise: Samai Mai Temple with elephants, Central Pond, Eastern Gate, Central Structures.

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