First published: 12/01/19.

Frederik Dawson 3.0

Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries

Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries (Inscribed)

Sansa, Buddhist Mountain Monasteries by Frederik Dawson

I was initially skeptical about visiting this site, as I had already been to Haeinsa and Bulguksa temples. I was curious about the outstanding universal value of “Sansa,” a term derived from the Chinese word “Shan-si,” meaning mountain temple. Among the inscribed components, I visited only two: Beopjusa and Seonamsa. Both temples are located in protected forests, and the pathways from the parking areas were scenic, with beautiful streams, light forests, pavilions, and pleasant surroundings. However, this kind of environment and setting is quite similar to Haeinsa, so while I thoroughly enjoyed the visit, I struggled to identify the uniqueness of these mountain temples compared to other forest Buddhist temples in Asia or religious monasteries around the world.

One thing I noted about Haeinsa is that, apart from the famous wooden block storage buildings, the rest of the temple complex is not particularly special, most structures have been newly rebuilt. Therefore, I never credited Haeinsa for its temple architecture, only for the storage buildings. My view of Bulguksa’s authenticity is even more negative, as most of the temple structures, except for the two stone pagodas, were reconstructed based on archaeologists’ imagination.

However, when I visited Beopjusa and Seonamsa, the aged wooden structures were stunning, especially the pagoda at Beopjusa. Its antiquity left a strong impression, contrasting sharply with many other temples in South Korea. I walked around the complex trying to understand the concept of “Madang” or open courtyard. The Madang layout made these two temples distinct from Bulguksa and Haeinsa, which were built with enclosed courtyards surrounded by buildings and corridors. In contrast, Beopjusa and Seonamsa featured free-standing buildings without corridors or walls. Still, I didn’t find this layout particularly unique, as similar styles can be found in temples that were poorer, lacked royal or noble patronage, or were built in geographically constrained areas.

There is no question about the craftsmanship and beauty of Beopjusa and Seonamsa. These two temples are arguably superior in terms of Korean Buddhist art compared to Haeinsa. Their authenticity is impressive, it’s rare to find well-preserved old wooden buildings in Korea, given the country’s history of wars. The survival of these temples is a miracle in itself. In my opinion, Korea’s inclusion of these sites in the UNESCO list is a worthwhile and commendable decision.

Comments

1 comment

    Kyle Magnuson 1 week, 3 days ago (Aug 11, 2025)
    I think more and more our community here (myself included some years back) have recognized this serial WHS as including the most representative examples of Korean Buddhism. My first visit of this collection was Beopjusa (in 2011, before inscription) and then I've since visited 3 more temples (Buseoksa, Magoksa, and Tongdosa). At this point, while Haeinsa and Builguksa are impressive and special in their own way, I believe this grouping of mountain monasteries is the more impressive world heritage site.
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