Somehow Damascus felt very familiar: it is the quintessential Old Town of the Middle East, with narrow alleyways and busy souks selling everything, from spices to lingerie. Numerous comparisons came to my mind: Baghdad's Old Town, which is a 'new' construction, Tabriz has a similar covered bazaar, Cairo has more monumental mosques, and Istanbul has more imposing stand-alone buildings. But Damascus still has the fully intact historic fabric, and it is in authentic use by its population.

Behind small, unassuming doors, whole worlds open up. This both counts for today’s pleasures as well as past splendour. The weekends and evenings are very lively here: there are so many cafés (selling coffee, berry juice and ice cream) and shisha lounges in the courtyards of elegant converted townhouses. These are frequented by women as much as by men. It is no problem at all roaming around on your own in the Old City during the day or the evening.

I stayed for two nights in Dar Al Mamlouka, a traditional townhouse converted into a boutique guesthouse (a bit similar to those you find in Morocco or Tunisia). We visited two of the largest former townhouses as well. Maktab Anbar is a mid-19th-century mansion, built in the traditional Damascene way with three courtyards (one to receive male guests, one for the females in the family, and one for the servants). Especially the second one here is splendid, with ornate designs in the Damascene style. A garden with flowers and lemon trees, and the soothing noise of a fountain, complete the traditional layout.

Even larger is Bait Farhy. This opens up on special request only. It was built in the 18th century by a Jewish family who had come from Spain. They ran the tax office of the Ottoman Empire in the larger Syria. Bait Farhy can be found in the Jewish Quarter of Damascus and is more like a city palace. The colourful interior has both Andalusian and Damascene elements. It now stands empty, but it has been used as a hotel before and may be converted into one again in the future.

Visiting in September 2025, the city appears vibrant, as if nothing had ever happened in this country. Non-government forces never occupied the Old City itself, the “rebels” came as far as 3km outside its walls in the now “93% destroyed” town of Jobar. But there have been terrorist attacks in the Old City and only a few months ago, an Israeli missile hit the Citadel. My guide said he could see things change with the new, more muslim-conservative regime. There’s now a separate women’s entrance to the Great Mosque, for example, which they apparently never had before (female tourists don’t have to adhere to this, by the way). Still, I was amazed that there is no security at all entering this formidable mosque and the dress code is not conservative – it is still a far cry from Iraq.