The Great Barrier Reef (GBR) poses the same issue for a “non-waterperson” like me as several other marine sites: how to create a satisfying visit that touches upon the site’s OUV without having to get your feet wet? A scenic flight would be an option, but I did that already at its “cousin” Belize Barrier Reef. But in contrast to Belize’s WHS, “everything” at the GBR is included in the core zone, so there's no excuse for not getting in. I eventually settled for a day trip to two islands, including a glass-bottom boat tour of the reef.

I started from the pleasant city of Cairns, where reef tours are a mass product and the focus lies on physical activities (from diving to paragliding). The ferry to my first island held some 200 people and along the way, no park info was given at all. I felt most sorry for the staff member whose T-shirt said “Cultural Guide”, who spent the whole 45 minutes of the transfer handing out wetsuits and flippers in the right sizes to the snorkelers.

Fitzroy Island, a continental island that split from the mainland some 10,000 years ago, turned out to be surprisingly lush. Many of the islands in this area are covered in rainforest. I ignored the main path to the snorkel beaches (and the noise from the bar in the distance) and turned off to do the Secret Garden Walk. This is a stony forest path, about 20 minutes each way. I saw a lot of skinks, one of the primary animals on the island. I also looked for birds, as Fitzroy is a protected area because of the many Australian Pied imperial pigeons that come to nest and feed here in summer.

I only had time for this short walk (there are longer hikes available as well), because at 11 a.m. I was expected back at the jetty for the glass-bottom boat tour. I had never done one before and thought it would be very cheesy (it is advertised for “children and non-swimmers”), but it was not too bad. There were only 10 passengers aboard and the guide explained a lot about the coral that we were seeing. Fitzroy has its own fringing reef and the boat hovered above a part with a variety of coral species. Photography is not easy, however, as there is some reflection from the sun and all colours come out as turquoise at first.

At 11.45, I left by ferry for my next destination: Green Island. It lies about 35 minutes away. The best thing about Green Island is found immediately when you disembark: its long pier is a good place to spot fish, turtles and see the seagrass beds. The small island itself is a tourist trap as it is mostly covered by a resort. The shopping and food court area, however, was surprisingly good for birds, as they know where to be to find the scraps. Here I also saw the Australian Pied imperial pigeon (a.k.a. Torresian imperial pigeon) that I missed on Fitzroy.

I had 3 hours on the island, which is long (I’d rather would have had so much time on Fitzroy Island). I did a circular walk of the island, partly on the beach and partly through the forest. I went back to the boat early and sat around til they started “to feed the fish”, a bucket full of small fish thrown overboard, aiming to attract a variety of fish. What can I say – the seagulls know about the daily ritual as well.

Overall, I had an enjoyable day without reaching the Wow!-levels required for a 4-star rating. I liked the variety of plant, bird and other animal species that I had not seen elsewhere. Of course, this WHS is huge, and other spots in the core zone might be better. Its size is both a good and a bad thing: the whole is very much one large living organism, so it would be weird to leave parts out. On the other hand, it is also overexploited, especially at resorts like Green Island. I often did not feel like I was visiting a Natural World Heritage Site.