On a late Saturday afternoon, I went by bus from Split to Sibenik, about 80 kms to the north. The public bus took us on a winding road along the coastline, passing several marinas. For me this was the first view of the non-touristy Croatia. It has a general Mediterranean feel about it, it could be anywhere between Spain and Greece.

At the outskirts of Sibenik, we hit upon a traffic jam caused by horning and flag-waving car drivers. At first I thought that people were celebrating because Croatia had won an important football match. But it turned out to be a loud and patriotic wedding - not the last I would see that Saturday.

The cathedral of Sibenik is located about 10 minutes on foot from the bus station and can be seen from afar. You have to get up close to get the real "Wow!"-feeling though. All those fine little sculptures around the gates, facade, and apse! No less than 74 small sculptured heads that represent eminent Sibenik citizens are the highlight of the exterior.

The interior of the cathedral is much darker and soberer. I didn't get the chance to explore the church well on the inside, because that would have meant that I had to push another bridal couple to the side. The cathedral of course is a prime wedding location: another couple and their guests were already waiting at the plaza next door for the next 'shift'. So I had to retreat again, and take the bus back to Split.