Time of the visit:12th-15th of Jan.,2026

On the 13th I visited the Central and Western Zone as well as parts of the Northern Zone.The following day,the 14th,I visited the Eastern and the Southern Zone as well as the Northern Zone again.The 12th and the 15th I only had long strolls through Sukhothai 's old town and its mayor lake temple there. The Sukhothai whs has three components.

I only visited....... very intensively, comprehensively and in detail...the capital city Sukhothai,the political and administrative heart of the first Thai/Siam kingdom.I didn't visit Kamphaeng Phet( military stronghold) nor Si Satchanalai( residence of the crown prince and a major ceramic production center),the other two components that together with the capital represent the birth, peak, and cultural legacy of the first Thai kingdom(13th-14th centuries).If I had had another day at my disposal in Sukhothai I would have visited Si Satchanalai as there are 3x a day minibuses going from Sukhothai ( New Town bus terminal) to S.S. The first one goes to S.S at 9.30 a.m.Tough choice.I decided against SS because I felt that I had not yet thoroughly visited and examined the most important component,the capital city Sukhothai.

The old capital is divided into 5 different zones. You have to pay 200 bath to enter the Central Zone and 120 bath for the Northern as well as for Western Zone. The Southern and Eastern Zone are free and no entrance ticket is needed.A combo ticket costs 400 baht.My recommendation: only buy a ticket for the Central Zone!

On both days of my exploration of the five zones I rented a bicycle( bad ones 30 baht a day,better ones 50 baht a day).No bicycle is really needed for the Central Zone,but absolutely necessary for the other zones.

1. Central Zone (Within the City Walls)

The heart of the park, enclosed by ancient walls and a moat. It contains the royal and most important religious monuments, including the iconic Wat Mahathat (the spiritual center with a magnificent lotus-bud chedi), the Royal Palace, and Wat Si Sawai. This zone represents the administrative and religious core of the old kingdom.95% of all visitors only visit the Central Zone.Despite the occasional bus groups the Central Zone wasn't crowded.

2.Northern Zone

Located just outside the north gate, this area features some of the most artistic and influential monasteries. Key temples include the spectacular Wat Si Chum with its massive seated Buddha image concealed within a square mondop, and Wat Phra Phai Luang, which shows earlier Khmer-style influence and is believed to have been a major temple before Sukhothai's independence.I twice visited that area...both times after 17.00/17.30. The checkpoints are not manned at that time anymore. I didn't need to buy an extra ticket.Quite impressive to visit the Northern Zone's two most important temples during the last 60-45 min with sunlight.

3.Southern Zone

Situated outside the south gate, this zone is centered around Wat Chetuphon( my personal highlight in that area) , famous for its exquisite stucco reliefs on the walls of its four-sided mondop, depicting walking, standing, sitting, and reclining Buddhas. It highlights the refined artistry of the late Sukhothai period.

4.Western Zone

A more forested and tranquil area, requiring bicycle or vehicle access. Its most significant site is Wat Saphan Hin, located on a hilltop and reached by a stone path. It offers panoramic views and features a large standing Buddha image.This is a remote area where I didn't meet or see another tourist...you are alone...in all temple areas.The West Zone was also the only area where I had to walk uphill from the road to reach seven temples; the other temples or better temple ruins were accessible at ground level.The highlight there was the Wat Saphan Hin temple.Be warned that the Western Zone is the most physically demanding zone, especially at high temperatures,but it is worth the effort.Almost no dogs there. Theoretically,you have to buy a ticket to enter that zone,but I left the Central Zone through the western gate and didn't see any checkpoint when entering the West Zone.I came across an abandoned checkpoint when leaving the West Zone near Wat Saphan Hin.

5.Eastern Zone

This zone, outside the east gate, is primarily focused on Wat Chang Lom (the "Elephant-Circled Monastery"). Its main Ceylonese-style bell-shaped chedi is raised on a square base surrounded by 36 stucco elephant sculptures, appearing to support the structure. It represents important monastic traditions.The Eastern Zone is the least interesting one.

Sukhothai 's old town is pleasant with its lake temple Wat Tra Phang Tong,its decent night market,and peaceful atmosphere.I would recommend to stay there instead of Sukhothai 's new town.

Just some words to the countless dogs there: twice I was attacked by them.Once by two and another time by a group of three dogs.It wasn't a big deal and I could intimidate the three ones quite easily..

It took longer with those two very aggressive ones.

Never in my life have I seen more dogs in a place like there.The vast majority of stray dogs is totally harmless,and most of the guard dogs are used to bicycles.Sometimes you encounter a pitpull lying outside a house.All peaceful.

However, everything changes during night time..

Big packs of dogs roam the streets outside the old town and they hate bicycles and their riders during nighttime.Thats why you won't see bicycles out there as soon as it gets dark.

Don't let that put you off, the dogs aren't that bad during the day, just keep in mind that at least you'll be back in the old town after dark.

My favorite temple out of all the numerous ones was probably Wat Saphan Hin... magical, climbing up to the temple after all the exertions in the West Zone... the last temple in that zone... simply breathtaking to stand up there. A sign indicates that it is not allowed to go up alone after 4:30 pm... I simply ignored the sign... the only temple in the West Zone that was guarded. The guard greeted me very kindly... I was up there around 5:20/5:30 pm.

Sukhothai is a great Unesco world heritage site.A stay of more than one night is strongly recommended.A day trip is better than nothing,but you will only see a part of the picture.I needed two full days to visit all 5 zones, admittedly....very profoundly.