I visited this tWHS by car in 2022. The best light within the Civita is in the morning just after the morning dew and mist, while the best views from any viewpoint opposite the Civita are definitely in the afternoon with the sun shining from behind you. Parking near the small village before the parking proper is free while the parking lot (which looked quite unsafe when I visited since what looks like a large modern visitor centre is still under construction) costs 5 euro for a day ticket. You'll also have to pay a further 5 euros to cross the modern bridge and visit the Civita proper which further underlines the fact that the Civita is a "dying museum town".

The heart of the Civita is Piazza San Donato with the Church and Belfry dedicated to San Donato and a permeating smell of lavander from the local craft shops. It really looks like a typical Medieval film set with many rustic Medieval town houses, small pretty gardens, intricate Medieval porticoes and archways with Renaissance friezes, external stairways, and a few Etruscan, Roman and Longobard remains displayed in different small artisans' shops, restaurants and museums. There are a couple of worthwhile viewpoints of the surrounding environment and it is especially worth viewing the nearby sea of calanques which are quite similar to the Crete Senesi in Tuscany. After visiting the main church's interior to appreciate its frescoes, and after exploring most if not all of the small streets and alleys, I headed past the quaint Giardino del Poeta (Poet's garden) and downwards to the Etruscan Cave converted into the Roman Catholic Chapel of La Madonna del Carcere. Apart from the 17th century earthquake, the constantly eroding tuff core of the Civita lead locals to discourage visits inside the chapel (in fact it is sealed behind steel bars) as well as through the long "tunnel" dug through the Civita's entire width and which is technically part of the Via Romea. Since it was still early to enjoy lunch (I can surely recommend eating at Osteria Al Forno di Agnese) and kill time before the better afternoon light, I decided to risk it and ignored the signs of the crumbling environs. If some safety precautions are taken, this would be a really lovely alternative way to hike towards Bagnoregio avoiding the modern bridge (and currently also the 5 euro fee). It would involve a much steeper hike than the bridge though so I don't think this will be happening any time soon.