
Gordion is Turkey's latest addition to the UNESCO World Heritage list as of June 2024 and one of the easiest to reach, thanks to the high-speed trains ("Yüksek Hızlı Tren"). While previous reviews have focused on its historical significance, I will concentrate on the logistics.
I started my trip from Istanbul, where my family lives. If you will do the same, then I have an important tip for you: book your train tickets at least a week in advance. Trains often sell out 3-4 days before departure, as I discovered the hard way. I managed to find two tickets in separate wagons just four days before my planned trip. The fare from Istanbul to Eskişehir was 280 TL (7.7 euros), and from Eskişehir to Polatlı, it was 145 TL (3.8 euros). Note that prices increased by 25% in July 2024 after my trip.
The physical heritage at Gordion isn't extensive; a visit, including the museum, can take around 2.5-3 hours. Add an hour if you plan to eat in the city. That's the maximum time needed in Polatlı.
Since summer days are long, we first visited Eskişehir, a lively and modern university city. Eskişehir also boasts a tentative World Heritage site, Odunpazarı, a beautifully renovated historical area from the Seljuk and Ottoman periods. We began our day with "Çi Börek," a pastry filled with ground meat, at "Kırım Tatar Kültür Çi Börek Evi," accompanied by "ayran" or Turkish tea. After a city tour, we took the train to Polatlı to begin our Gordion adventure.
From the Polatlı train station, you can find a minibus to the city center and one or two taxis, but there is no direct public transport to Gordion. A minibus to Yassıhüyük runs once in a day from city centre and without a clear schedule. Taxis are the best option. We were quoted 1250 TL (34.7 euros) for a round trip to the Gordion Museum, Mound of Midas, and Gordion Ancient City/Castle, including waiting times. After some bargaining, we agreed on 800 TL (22 euros). I tipped an extra 100 TL because our driver waited an hour while we ate in the city center. Make sure to mention you want to visit the Gordion Ancient City/Castle, as some drivers may skip it, shortening the trip by an hour.
The driver did not speak English, so bargaining can be challenging for non-Turkish speakers, but prices are relatively cheap compared to many places. The museum is free for Turkish citizens with a museum card and costs 5 euros for foreigners. It is small but modern, with many artifacts and good English information panels. The highlight for me was the Midas Tumulus. Turkish engineers opened a passage to the burial room 40-50 years ago, and you can see the oldest wooden structure in the world where probably King Midas's father was buried, though only from behind plexiglass.
The ancient city is a 10-minute drive from the museum, with ongoing excavations in the mornings. The most impressive part is the city gate, the largest of its kind I have seen. After our meal, the driver returned us to the train station.
Overall, it was a good experience. Gordion is very old, so do not expect massive structures like Angkor Wat or Chichen Itza. These are among the largest structures from that era still standing (dates back to 10th century BC). From Polatlı, you can take a fast train to Ankara to visit a UNESCO-listed wooden mosque, then continue to Yozgat to visit Hattusa, and to Sivas to see a tentative Seljuk madrasa. Sivas is the last stop on the fast train. Safranbolu is also accessible from Ankara as a day trip by bus. From Sivas, you can head to Divriği, within Sivas city limits. If returning to Istanbul, Arifiye is an option to visit another tentative site, Justinian Bridge, and enjoy delicious meatballs.
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