First published: 26/01/26.

Alexander Barabanov

Bamiyan Valley

Bamiyan Valley (Inscribed)

Bamiyan

Visited this site in November 2025 with almost individual tour consisting of two people (most tourists refused after another escalation of military clashes on the border of Afghanistan and Pakistan).

In two days we visited Shahr-i-Gholghola, Shahr-i-Zuhak and Bamiyan Buddha Cliff. The guide complained that nowadays each site requires separate permit and separate payment, increased from his last visit. There were some kind of restoration works on the first two sites, with people manually constructing cobblestone road leading to the sites (both requiring come climbing). I also noticed some quality WHS plaques at Shahr-i-Ghulghulah and Shahr-i-Zuhak.

At Bamiyan Cliff both Buddhas are fenced and are guarded by armed Taliban representatives. Surviving blocks and pieces are kept next to niches in roofed storages. It is also possible to climb up in the passage surrounding Small Buddha site. Along the passage there are many caves with very faded murals. Certain painted grottoes are closed with iron lattices (most interesting is pictured between the bars). The passage takes up to the level of Buddha head from one side to another with excellent valley views.

Very beautiful but somewhat sad site reminding how fragile our heritage is.

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