Saint-Savin sur Gartempe
The Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe is an 11th century Romanesque church noted for its well-preserved mural paintings.
These painted biblical scenes date from the late 11th, early 12th centuries, and have given the church the nickname of "Romanesque Sistine Chapel".
Below the church is the Crypt of the legendary martyr brothers St Savin and St Cyprian, also frescoed with the lives of these two saints.
Frederik Dawson - March 2017
Off the beaten track abbey church of Saint Savin sur Gartempe was on my wish list to visit for quite a long time since my first visit to Poitou region 11 years ago. When our family friend asked us to choose between La Rochelle or Saint Savin for next day trip, and my young nephew wanted to see aquarium desperately, so I had to go to La Rochelle instead as the idea to see abbey with fresco was sounded too boring for him. After that day, I had no opportunity to revisit Poitou. So when my friends and I planned to have vacation on Pyrenees by selves-drive, Saint Savin immediately came up as one of the must stops during this long journey.
After great late lunch in Bordeaux, I drove as fast as I could to reach Saint Savin before 4 PM which is one hour before its closing time. At the end we arrived Saint Savin, a very pretty village, at 4.35 PM, since it was almost closing time, the abbey staff allowed us to see the famous church with no concern of ticket. When we entered the church, my friends and I were deeply impressed by its warm earth tone interior. However instead of the famous fresco, the colorful columns along the nave and aisle first caught our attention. These columns are really pretty for its pastel colors and the way of its coloring to mimic the colorful marble almost liked sweet stick candies. To my surprised the chancel of the church are also really nice with very fine wall painting, fade but still visible. After appreciated with many parts of this beautiful church, my friend and I spent the last 10 minutes to admire the famous ceiling fresco. Thankfully that my friend decided to buy explanation pamphlet so we can understand the story of the fresco. The fresco indeed is really impressive and really one of the best Romanesque ceiling fresco I have seen, but to say that it is comparable to the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City is maybe over exaggerated.
Even though it was a very short visit, I felt very happy that the abbey church is really impressive and made me felt relieved that the site I want to see for the past 11 years is actually really worthwhile to visit. To say that the site is off the beaten track is maybe not correct, even in the cold rainy day of March, when we approached the abbey almost its closing time, more than 30 tourists were still in the complex. Visiting Saint Savin reminded me the visit to UNESCO listed Bourges Cathedral, these two religious sites seem to be unknown but turn out to be one of the nicest religious buildings in France, and very fine World Heritage Sites.
Hubert Scharnagl - January 2016
The Abbey of Saint-Savin is one of those sites that I have only visited because it is a WHS. Saint-Savin is off the beaten track and although our visit was in high season (end of August 2015), we had the abbey almost all to ourselves.
The abbey and the church are nothing special, the view from the bridge over the Gartempe is quite nice, but the big (and only) attraction is the wall painting. Most of the murals are on the ceiling of the vaulted nave, four rows of paintings depict scenes from the Old Testament, from the books of Genesis and Exodus. I'm not well versed in the Bible, so I was happy that I had picked up a booklet with explanations at the ticket office. However, some of the scenes are easy to identify, e.g. Noah's Ark, the most striking (shown in Clyde's photo), or the Construction of the Tower of Babel.
About ten years ago the nave was renovated and the murals were cleaned. I do not know how it looked like before, but obviously they have done a good job, the paintings are incredibly well preserved.
"Known as the Romanesque Sistine Chapel" (cited from the sparse description on the WHS website) is clearly overdone, I would rather compare it to the Val du Bois WHS. Apart from the fact, that in Spain most of the originals have been transferred to museums. But style and quality of the murals are comparable.
The drawback with paintings on the ceiling is that you permanently have to put your head back. And that they are at a certain height, in Saint-Savin the nave is 17 metres high. So it's a good idea to view them through a pair of binoculars or the telephoto lens of a camera. I took photos of almost all the paintings, and to be honest, I spotted many details only when I watched the photos on my computer.
Saint-Savin is a half-day trip from the Loire (about 1.5 hours from Tours). We combined it with a visit of Bourges Cathedral and Saint-Hilaire-de-Poitiers in Poitiers (part of French Santiago de Compostela WHS), which means that we spent most of the day in the car. But I ticked off two new WHS, so no question that it was a worthwhile daytrip.
Clyde - August 2014
I visited this WHS in July 2014. It was one of my stopover points during my road trip to Portugal. It's quite out of the way and perhaps that is why not many have visited it. Nonetheless, it's worthwhile visiting and there are interesting places to visit nearby such as the Medieval town of Chauvigny and the Church of Notre-Dame la Grande in Poitiers (with a night light show in the summer months). Saint Savin sur Gartempe is a small quaint town with a huge abbey church. The best viewpoint can be enjoyed from the Medieval bridge on the opposite bank of the Gartempe river. The abbey and church proper can be visited for 6 euros and every 30 minutes or so there is a free guided visit in English. Part of the abbey has been converted into a visitor centre with several interactive information boards and videos. The church murals were definitely the highlight of my trip comparing them to the Sistine Chapel perhaps is a bit too much. I think that comparing them to the murals of Reichenau would be more appropriate. My favourite mural was the scene depicting Noah's ark (picture). On the whole it was a pleasant stopover to yet another splendid WH abbey.
Klaus Freisinger - August 2012
Located in a small town in the Poitou region, the magnificent abbey of St-Savin is nicknamed the "Romanesque Sistine Chapel" for its murals showing biblical scenes dating from the 11th and 12th centuries. They are almost perfectly preserved and well worth a closer look, even though you have to crane your neck, since most of them are on the abbey's ceiling. There is also a quite interesting exhibit on the history and preservation of the murals on the upper floor (in French only, of course), as well as a small garden. The best views of this quite large building can be enjoyed from the opposite bank of the Gartempe River. St-Savin can be reached by bus from Poitiers (about a 50-minute ride), but this has to be planned carefully, since there are only a handful of buses every day (no more than 4). Still, a very worthwhile excursion.
Thibault Magnien - March 2012
The Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe is well conserved edifice located on the Gartempe River in the Poitou area. This building is remarkable and famous for its collection of well conserved Romanesque mural paintings. These paintings represent several episodes of the Holy Bible and were used to teach religion to people that generally were not able to read. Build during the 12th century, the abbey in a real splendor as well as a beautiful example of religious artwork.
John Booth - May 2010
Travelled by bus from Poitiers bus station to St Savin sur Gartempe, arriving by the bridge over the river.
The abbey and the church with its tall spire dominate the village. The restoration work now having been completed the interior is magnificent again. The frescoes on the walls, columns and ceilings in the nave look bright and fresh, while those in the chancel are original and worn-looking. The ceiling frescoes, scenes from the Old Testament are especially interesting.
David Berlanda - February 2006
In our trip to France we have visited the church in Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe, that was part of an abbey, a Romanesque masterpiece with simply lines and only a tower as façade; it has also a nice apse with radiating chapels, an ambulatory and a square porch. Inside there is a nave with nine bays, barrel vaults, rounded arches and a double row of columns with capitals sculpted with animals and plants; the lower lateral naves have groin vaults. The church is from the 11th century but there are some older parts: the base of the porch, the transepts with wings, the absidioles, the square tower and the crypts. The church is famous because of his frescos, representing on the vault of the porch and on the tympanum of the doorway the Apocalypse, on the barrel vaulting of the main nave 28 biblical scenes, on the upper tribune of the porch the Passion of Christ and scenes of martyrs, in the choir and on the piers of the transept many saints and on the walls of the crypts the story of St. Savin and St. Cyprian.
I was a little bit disappointed by the church because I imagined it more impressive but I liked very much its frescos. It's worth to be visited if you are in Poitou and justifies the inscription because of its frescos, the nicest Romanesque paintings in France.
Photo: Saint-Savin-sur-Gartempe - Church
Emile Hensen - January 2006
Highly impressive. It looks like a church from outside. But once you get in, it is a stunning and overwhelming experience. It really is the Romanesque equivalent of 'the' Sistine Chapel in Rome.
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Full name: Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe
2006 - Name changeFrom "Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe" to "Abbey Church of Saint-Savin sur Gartempe"
1983 - InscribedReasons for inscription
The site has 10 connections.
Religion and Belief
- Benedictines It was founded as a Benedictine Abbey
- Built in the 11th century current abbey was built 1040-1090