First published: 30/01/26.

Ilya Burlak 2.0

Brescia: Positive impression, unclear OUV

Longobards in Italy (Inscribed)

Longobards/Brescia

Even though the Longobards gave Lombardy its name, just two out of seven locations of this site are in Lombardy. The other five are not within a day-trip reach from Milan, which was my base for the Northern Italy trip in November of 2025. I couldn’t fit more than one location into my itinerary, and the choice fell on the one in Brescia because I wanted to combine the WH visit with exploring a city that I've not been to before (the Castelserpio site is not quite as urban, as far as I can tell).

I found it counterintuitive that the core area in Brescia includes the Archaeological Park of Roman Brescia and the entire Santa Giulia museum complex. When you enter Museo di Santa Giulia, you first see a variety of Roman-period artifacts, such as reliefs, mosaics, and other decorative elements. If you, by then, already spent time at the archaeological park, you may have questions about what it all has to do with the Longobards in the first place (aside from the fact that the former Benedictine monastery that hosts the museum was built by the Longobards).

Not that the museum collection is not worth perusing. There is even a Roman villa in one of the spaces, with quite a few magnificent mosaics and wall paintings in situ.

Eventually, progressing through the museum circuit, you reach the section devoted to the Longobard period. On display here are tools, weapons, jewelry, housewares, and other artifacts from the era, as well as fresco fragments dating from the same times.

The pièces de résistance of the museum complex are two churches situated within its walls. The first is Basilica San Salvatore, founded in 753, at the tail end of the Longobards’ rule. It is one of the richest examples of their influence on ecclesiastical architecture and art, with many brilliantly preserved stuccoes and frescoes throughout its nave and apses. I find painted churches very hard to step away from, so just this one church already made the entire visit worth it for me.

The other church is Santa Maria in Solario. It dates from several centuries after Charlemagne had established his kingdom’s supremacy over that of the Lombards, so technically it has little to do with the WH designation. But its upper hall is so incredibly decorated that it is another place that I found hard to leave. The headline artifact here is the Cross of Desiderius, an early-Carolingian – in other words, directly following the Lombardian period – example of goldsmith’s art.

The Roman ruins consist of the Forum presided over by the remains of the 1st-century CE Capitolium. A large Roman theater stands nearby. The Forum area is free to enter, and there are a couple of inner spaces in the Capitolium accessible with the same entry ticket that allows access to the Santa Giulia museum. You can find more frescoes, statue fragments, and other remains typical of an ancient site.

I spent about three hours combined at the museum and the archaeological site. If I am reading the map correctly, the core zone includes only these two sights, as well as a stretch of the street that connects them (obviously rebuilt many times over in the centuries since the Longobards). All other churches and points of interest nearby lie in the buffer zone - and that includes major public spaces such as Piazza della Loggia and Piazza Duomo that are very much worth stopping by (for those who like unusual old churches, Duomo Vecchio is fascinating; if you are into rich Baroque, I highly recommend the interior of Santa Maria della Carità). There are three other museums included on the combined ticket with Santa Giulia that are within the buffer zone, so there is scope for spending more time in Brescia.

As far as I understand from my research and the previous reviews, the Brescia component of the Longobards WH property is one of the most extensive, while not necessarily the most representative. It actually remains unclear to me after visiting here what had been so special about this particular kingdom in this particular period in time that it deserved a WH recognition in the shape of several far-flung fragments. Definitely need to visit one or two other components in the future.

On the other hand, I certainly enjoyed what I saw. So, a win in my book.