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Boyana Church

Boyana Church is renowned for its frescoes from 1259.

They form a second layer over the paintings from the earlier centuries. In all, there are 240 depictions on the walls. Its painter is still anonymous, but stands for the team that decorated the church and that was trained in the studios of the Turnove Art School.

A total of 18 scenes in the narthex depict the Life of St. Nicholas. The painter here drew certain aspects of contemporary lifestyle. In The Miracle at Sea the ship and the sailor's hats recall the Venetian fleet. Also most interesting are the full-size paintings of the donors, Kaloyan and Dessilsava, and of the Bulgarian King Konstantin Assen Tih and Queen Irina. Kaloyan holds a model of the church and presents it to St. Nicholas.

The architecture of Boyana Church dates from late 10th and early 11th century. It's the eastern part of the current building, which also sees additions from mid-13th century and mid-19th century.

Map

Visit May 2004

Boyana Church can be found in a residential neighbourhood on the outskirts of Sofia. My taxi-driver didn't know its location, but after asking some directions we safely arrived there.

The little church is hidden in a lovely park. I had to wait there some time before I was able to buy a ticket, and later before I was allowed to get into the church (because of its small size, only small groups can go in at the same time).

The inside of the church is the reason to go here. All its walls are covered with frescoes. Dark blue is the main colour, and the paintings are now in good repair.

Community Reviews


Chris - May 2014

Visited the Church on 30th May 2014. It's a 20 minute drive to get there from our hotel. We arrived early morning around 10 AM, got the tickets, and had to wait like a minute for like 3 people to get out the church. We are with two people and other 4 joined to go inside. We stayed probably quite long inside as it was very quiet. The church itself, outside, it's a soso. BUT the fresco's......best ones I have seen till today ! Seems I cannot add any photo's here so check my gallery on my blog:

www.christravelblog.com/bulgaria-sofia-2014-05-28-2014-06-02/


Joseph Colletti - September 2013

The church, as of August 2013, is fully restored and the scaffolding is down. The inside is covered with 13th century frescoes, including a cycle of the life of St. Nicholas (later morphed into Santa Claus) as well as portraits of the ruling tsars and tsarinas of the times.

Very well informed guides took groups of five to ten people at a time into the climate controlled church. The interior is small, basically a narrow apse and the nave, with an outer area that has an exhibit about the restoration work.

The frescoes were some of the most beautiful and best preserved (and restored) I saw in Bulgaria. They approach in beauty and artistic sophistication those found in Italy of that period. Rebecca West wondered,(though she was talking about Yugoslavia but still relevant)how far could this painting have advanced but for the Turkish occupation. Compare these to the Russian Revival style paintings from the 18th century in Alexander Nevski and post-Ottoman churches (inferior, almost cartoonish in my non-expert opinion) to get an idea of the various forces that have shaped this part of the world. Boyana restored is certainly worth a visit.

While you wait your turn to enter (the day I was there I only had to wait five minutes or so for the group before me to come out) you should walk around the grounds. The guide, who was also waiting for her turn to enter, spoke about the history of the church, answered questions about the exterior and talked about some of the graves (and their inhabitants)in the nearby cemetery. There are food stands and cafes in the car park just outside the church.

It was about a fifteen minute and $10 or so cab ride from the west (Ovcha Kupel) bus station in Sofia but there are several delightful trolley cars you can take from downtown Sofia to the last stop, Hladinika, then a two minutes walk through a park past some food stands to Bus 64 (it's the beginning of the route)to the Boyana Church stop, about 20 minutes. It costs about one dollar. (I took the bus and trolley back.)


IOM - August 2008

Visited in June and the church was still closed for conservation apparently.

Be careful in getting taxis from the train station. I thought I got a bargain on the way there, only to be charged half the price on the way back (different taxi)!


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Site Info

Full name: Boyana Church

Site History

Locations

The site has 2 locations.

  • Boyana Church

Connections

The site has 6 connections.

Constructions

  • Domes "The oldest Boyana Church, the so-called East or First Church, was designed and used as a chapel. It had a typical Greek cross plan with a dome, and a concealed internal cross without free-standing support and without a narthex."

History

  • Bulgarian Empire Example of Bulgaria's fine arts in the 13th and 14th centuries, known as the painting of the Tarnovo Artistic School (Second Bulgarian Empire)

Timeline

  • Built in the 13th century The church owes its world fame mainly to its frescoes from 1259. They form a second layer over the paintings from earlier centuries and represent one of the most complete and well-preserved monuments of Eastern European mediaeval art.

Trivia

World Heritage Process