It wasn't put on the World Heritage List for its natural beauty however. It's a 'cultural route', used by everyone from hunter-gatherers to independent Argentina. The tracks of the early groups aren't very easy to spot for the casual visitor. Most of what is visibly left dates from the Spanish colonial times and later.
Driving north, the first historical building you encounter is the Posta de Hornillos. This is a 16th century post for travellers to rest, modelled after the oriental karavanserais. It is now turned into a museum about the history of travel along these roads.
Next is the very white Capilla de San Francisco de Paula, in the town of Uquia. It has a large golden altar and was constructed in the mudejar style that so often is seen here.
Even more north is Humahuaca. This is a relatively large town now catering mostly to backpackers on a stopover. One can almost feel the Bolivian atmosphere here in the streets, it's that far north. Humahuaca is home to the lovely ruin of the Torre de Santa Barbara (once a fort, now moved), and an enormous Heroes of the Independence Monument that dwarves everything else in town.
Like I already wrote, the pre-Hispanic sites are more difficult to find. I found that I had to make an effort and braved a visit to Coctaca on my own. Coctaca is mentioned as one of the very few specific places in the nomination files. It supposedly has spectacular terraced agricultural lands that show all about how farming locally was and is done. The only thing I noticed however was an extremely difficult unpaved road to drive, lots of cactuses and a town that seemed uninhabited. There were some stone demarcations visible between the fields, but I didn't really get where to look at. You should really hire a local guide to visit here.
A more spiced up pre-Hispanic remain is the Pucará of Tilcara. A Pucará was a fortified village, in which the inhabitants defended themselves against the many invaders (and neighbours). The one at Tilcara is almost completely restored. This didn't make ICOMOS happy, but I enjoyed my visit a lot. The Quebrada de Humahuaca (as most of the cultural landscapes on the list) lacks major sights and I'm glad that Tilcara at least made an effort to make its precolumbian history come alive. The houses and communal buildings were made of dry stone. The relatively large settlement, on top of a hill, is largely complete. There are explanatory signs in Spanish and English too.
Assif Am-David (Israel):
This was the first site I visited outside of Europe and the Middle East. It was a lucky choice since the area boasts with authentic local atmposphere so much different from what I knew. The Quebrada is naturally stunning and very special. In the Quebrada we visited Tilcara (where we stayed and would recommend to stay) and nearby Purmamarca. Two special assets of the towns are their traditional coulorful cemeteries filled with joyful floral ornaments which are very cheerful and surprising and the local Cuzco style paintings. If you want an interesting explanation about the Quechua influence on this local Baroque style (in Spanish) go to the Museum of Colonial Painting in Jujuy Capital. Two nearby mustsees are the Salinas Grandes de Jujuy (second largest salt lakes in the world after Uyuni, Bolivia) and Calilegua National Park. Both were absolutely rewarding.
Date posted: December 2009
Have you been to Quebrada de Humahuaca? Share your experiences!