I stayed in Mostar for 3 nights, so I could visit also some other places in the region. I had arrived overland from Belgrade via Sarajevo during an 11 hour journey, that took me right across the country. Nothing much changes at first, because the part where the Bosnian Serbs live (Republika Srpska) borders Serbia. So still there were signs in Cyrillic and lots of little pekara (bakeries). The more inland the landscape gets more spectacular though, almost Alpine with some snowcovered peaks, mountain passes and wooden architecture. Lakes, rivers and canyons add to the great scenery. The country’s political structure is still a weird construction, and I noticed quite a bit of provocative flagwaving that reminded me of Lebanon. The blue & yellow Bosnian national flag is the one that is seen the least.
Mostar has become a WHS because of its symbolical function of peaceful coexistence of different cultures – which is kind of a farce. I watched the video about the reconstruction in the Old Bridge museum, and the narrator there stated “Hayruddin (the Ottoman architect) just wanted to build a bridge, as best as he could. It had to be suitable for the growing trade and transport on this route. Nothing indicates that he wanted to symbolically link East and West.”
The “international cooperation” part of the nomination may have had more to do with the international sponsors than the struggling parties of Bosnia Herzegovina itself. Japan has provided the city with buses, Turkey and Jordan took care of a mosque each, and Italy, Turkey, Netherlands and Croatia all donated to the restoration of the Old Bridge. The cute little Crooked Bridge was repaired with money from Luxembourg (probably felt that it had its size in common). Money obviously has poured in after the Bosnian War ended, and this resulted in a quick and succesful reconstruction of the Old City. One wonders if something like that will happen again for Aleppo or Damascus. Somehow I doubt that.
I visited this WHS in April 2014. I travelled by car via Medjugorje as the highway from Split was closed just after the lengthy border crossing. It took much longer to arrive this way but looking on the bright side, it gave me the opportunity to visit Medjugorje and drive past several vineyard fields without encountering any problem whatsoever. Euro currency is accepted almost anywhere but you can easily find foreign exchange outlets in Mostar. Apart from the symbolic importance of the Stari Most (old bridge), the Muslim side is very interesting with a small bazaar, an Ottaman house and a small mosque open to the public. Dress code is not as strict as in other mosques around the world and you don't need to take off your shoes for example. The highlight of my trip was climbing the Koskin-Mehmed Pasha's Minaret as I never climbed a minaret before. Moreover, it offers a great panoramic view over the old bridge (photo). On the whole Bosnia is the least developed of the Balkan countries I visited and the one which has least recovered from the war - there are still bullet holes on the building facades and bombed buildings all over the country. Nonetheless it is a very interesting country and well off the beaten track, especially in the Serbian Republic side of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Keep your eyes open when driving through the countryside as you'll surely meet cattle with long horns, sheep or goats crossing the roads! So be extra careful and enjoy!
Date posted: May 2014 Jorge Sanchez (Spain):
I never get tired to travel to Mostar to admire the famous old bridge over the river Neretva.
It was my second time in that city in less than one year. Nevertheless I decided to overnight in order to enjoy again such a historical and pleasant town.
I had dinner besides the bridge, admiring it while drinking delicious wine.
There was a sign in the street saying in English “Do not Forget”.
And indeed, the people in Mostar will never forget the horrors that their crazy politics created with their wars.
The next day I travelled back to Spain, all the way overland.
Date posted: August 2013 Nicole (Australia): I was lucky enough to visit the original bridge when I travelled to Yugoslavia for the winter olympics in 1984. It was a magnificient structure and I am thankful that I got to see it and that I have photos of it. Hopefully one day soon I will be able to visit the reconstructed version.
Date posted: February 2013 Assif Am-David (Israel):
After having been heavily bombarded during the Yugoslavian War Mostar is now experiencing a revival. The old town is full of shops, bars (and - tourists) and is very picturesque. It is sometimes difficult to believe how free of conflicts the combination of Europe and Islam can actually be. Nonetheless, Catholic Croats in Bosnia still often descriminate against Muslim Bosniaks and as both populations share Mostar a deeper look into social interaction may expose these fresh wounds. Nonetheless, I found the locals incredibly friendly and the food very good. The Mosque was a bit disappointing whereas the traditional Ottoman Slokovic House was a nice surprise.
Date posted: November 2008 Aner (Bosna i Hercegovina): My name is Aner, and i was born in Mostar a long time ago. I left this great city when i was only 6 because of a stupid war. I visited Mostar in June of 2007 for the first time since i left. It was the most fun that I had in a long time. The old city is full of beauty and excitement.
I am glad to see that people all around the world are still visiting this city. If you want to see nature, history this is the place to go. I might have left this city a long time ago but this is allways going to be my home town.
Date posted: June 2008 Joyce (The Netherlands) Joyce (The Netherlands)::
Mostar turned out to be a great surprise and a wonderful city. The famous old bridge was destroyed during the war in 1993, but rebuilt about 10 years later with the same techniques as the former old bridge. It brings back the connection between the Christian and the Muslim side of the city. Around the old bridge are lots of old houses that host shops, restaurants and bars. On weekends during the summer people from all around go to Mostar to party between the restored buildings, but also in the shot down ruins that are still all around the city. The war is over and even though you can still clearly see the remains of it, the residents have moved on and made Mostar a great city.
Date posted: July 2006 George Vaughan (Wales): I have recently returned from a holiday in Bosnia and Herzegovina which, of course, included a visit to Mostar. It is hard to shake from one's mind the images of the original Stari Most falling and a certain scepticism about how good the restored version would look - essential as it was, for many reasons, to replace it. But the restoration of the bridge and surrounding area is very impressive; it looks a little new but a few years of weathering should see to that. Those who crossed the original are pleased to learn its principal attribute is intact: it is very slippery when wet!
Mostar is easy to reach on coach tours from the Croatian resorts and visitors are obviously returning in some mnumbers. However, it is also a good centre and visits to some of the unsung sights of the area - Kravica Waterfalls, Blagaj, Pocitelj, Radimlja necropolis - are easy with a car. The country's spectacular scenery can be readily appreciated by driving up the Neretva Valley to Sarajevo, now a well-restored, fascinating, vibrant and friendly city. Don't just visit Mostar - there's a beautiful country out there waiting to be discovered!
Date posted: July 2006 Jasmina (Current Residence United States of America, Chicago): Due to the war of 1992 between the neighboring countries I was forced to leave my life behind me as I was ripped away from the city of my birth and the people I love..I have seen many cities in the 11 years that I have been away but I have yet to see the city that has the beauty of Mostar...The green river that seems calm and cool on the surface has a great strenght and power underneath and to the eye of a stranger one would never know the fierce strenght of the river underneath.The Old Brige stands there proud and tall holding the two sides of the city in unison.During the summer the Old Bride is the main attractions as the local boys prepere their dives of the 27 meter long monument for numerous visitors visiting the city from all sides of the world. The night life has your ear intunned to the sound of Bosnian music echoing the streets laid out in pebbeld stone. The city so full of culture has you licking your fingers once you have had a taste of what it has to offer.Even after so many have tried to destroy it, the soul of Mostar leaves on with its head helad up high. Date posted: February 2006 Dejo (Bosnia and Herzegovina): My name is Dejo. I am from city of Mostar. It is a great city on the bank of river Neretva. Its spirit was not broken during the 3 years war. People are very proud of its
bridge and the surounding. Just being on the bridge gives you the feeling of great historical value. New (Old) Bridge is the same as the Old Bridge. Everyone should visit the Old City, the food is great and people are very welcoming.
Date posted: July 2005 Paul Tanner (UK):
The inscription in 2005 of the old city of Mostar and its bridge brought back memories of our trip there in June 1988. We had a pleasant visit and had followed the descent into civil war between 1992-5 and the destruction under cannon fire of much of the city and its famous bridge in Nov 1993 with sorrow. As outsiders we knew about, but could not of course fully understand, the depth of ethnic and religious tensions within Yugoslavia but the place had seemed peaceful and friendly enough when we were there. The city was reasonably interesting and atmospheric to wander around but the real “star” was of course the bridge.
Reconstruction “started” with the lifting of a single stone as early as Sept 1997 but didn’t really get under way until 2001 and the bridge was officially reopened in July 2004. I suppose the rebuilding and the inscription as a WHS are necessary and worthwhile symbols to try to help build Bosnia as a peaceful country but I guess that a common community is going to be harder to build than the bridge!
Els has kindly provided a picture of the bridge in 2004 from a similar angle to mine to enable you to see what sort of reconstruction job has been done on it! It would be interesting also for this site to receive a “first hand” description of what Mostar is like today as a community and whether it too can be/is being reconstructed. Is there anyone reading this from Mostar?
Date posted: July 2005
Have you been to Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar? Share your experiences!