In July 2011, while on my way back from the nearby Fagus Factory, I decided to stop in Hildesheim again. They still are very busy restoring these 2 Christian monuments: the Cathedral now is closed (until 2014 or 2015), and the St. Michael's Church is partly hidden under scaffolding.
Fortunately, they have finished working on the interior. The church is open to the public again. As Ian Cade has stated below, it looks almost too clean and fresh to be true. There's not much decoration inside, no miracle since this is a protestant church nowadays. But it holds some major works of art: the elaborate and colourful wooden ceiling, and two 11th century bronze objects "on loan" from the Cathedral: its very fine baptismal font and the Easter column. Just realizing how very old these objects are, their state of preservation is amazing.
Ingemar Eriksson (Sweden):
As Hildesheim was destroyed by bombing in late March 1945 the town generally still suffers from that. At the world heritage site, there are big reconstruction works going on(2012) and is not tourist friendly. Planned to end 2015, so i recommend to wait until 2016 for a visit.
Don't miss to walk the "Kulturweg auf den Rosenroute" which leads you through the rest of what is interesting in Hildesheim.
(Don't forget that the Fagus Factory also are in the area, the same "Landkreis".)
Date posted: June 2012 Hubert Scharnagl (Austria):
As I visited Hildesheim in September 2009, the Cathedral of St. Mary's was still open (now closed for renovation until 2014) and at St. Michael the renovation of the interior was already completed, only one outer wall was partly under scaffolding. Both churches are the best examples of early-Romanesque architecture and interior design. The typical elements are visible: thick, fortress-like walls, massive towers, and the typical round arches. In particular St. Michael beautifully illustrates the geometric principles of Romanesque style. In the Second World War both churches were almost completely destroyed and rebuilt in the 1950s. The Baroque ornaments were omitted, and the churches were rebuilt in their presumed original Romanesque style.
A significant part of the WHS is the art treasure from the 11th century: the two-winged bronze door (with depictions of the history of salvation), the Christ column (depicting scenes of Jesus' life), the Hezilo-Candelabrium. As other reviewers, I was impressed by the colourful wooden ceiling in St. Michael. Its effect is even enhanced by the sparse decoration of the interior.
I like to visit medieval cathedrals and monasteries, I like the mood and the atmosphere there. But there are a lot of them on the WH list and sometimes it is hard to understand why a certain cathedral is a World Heritage site and another one is not. The special features in Hildesheim are the pure Romanesque style and the extraordinary art treasures. A visit is worthwhile if you are in the area. The city is easily accessible, it is close to major highways and railway lines.
Date posted: May 2012 John Booth (New Zealand):
Externally these two monumental buildings have architectual merit, and the restoration of St Michael's church has been completed. The interior of that building is pristine, and is now restored to its original condition. The Dom on the other hand is now undergoing restoration and will be closed until 2014. So I was only able to access the cloister and its garden. But I did see the bronze doors.
Date posted: October 2010 Ian Cade (England):
It felt like everything was conspiring against me when I visited Hildesheim on New Year’s Eve 2010. Mistakes with trains meant I managed to turn up at the closed Cathedral well after it had got dark, and I was greeted with a few temporary cabins and ply wood covering the hole where the famous bronze doors would normally stand. I should have realised just how extensive the ongoing restoration would be.
Feeling a little down that I wasn’t able to see too much of the site I headed back towards St Michael’s church to have a look on the way to the station. I was instantly more impressed with the location being on a small hill, it really sat up from the surrounding buildings. As I walked up the congregation started coming out from inside and looked up towards the bell tower. Then a Brass band proceeded to play for the next 10 minutes whilst we all stood and admired, it really revived my spirits and was a really great experience. The vicar then spoke to me and realising I was a tourist asked me if I wanted a quick view of the interior, I of course said yes. I was not really prepared for how impressive it would be. The painted ceiling was magnificent, but I didn’t want to overstay my welcome so just had a quick glimpse, the interior felt almost new, perhaps a little ‘too restored’ for my initial liking but the ceiling was the main focus of my attention.
Listening to the brass band whilst standing with the congregation on the snowy hill was a brilliant experience and one that reminded me that it is these chance happening that make travelling so rewarding. I happily plodded back off to the station, dodging the fireworks, staring longingly (and warily) at the small arsenal that every German seemed to be clutching in preparation for the evening’s festivities.
I think I would be happy to revisit to see the cathedral after restoration and hopefully catch sight of the famous bronze doors.
[Site 5: Experience 7]
Date posted: January 2011 George D. Lord (USA): Founded in 1020, this Bernedictine monastery became a provate mental hospital in the 19th century.
Have you been to St. Mary's Cathedral and St. Michael's Church at Hildesheim? Share your experiences!