Primeval Beech Forests
The Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians are the largest remaining 'virgin' forests of the European beech (
Fagus sylvatica). They also hold the largest and tallest beech specimens in the world.
The designated site consists of 10 properties, 6 of which are located in the Ukraine and 4 in Slovakia. They are: Chornohora, Kuziy-Trybushany, Maramarosh, Stuzhytsia – Uzhok, Svydovets, Uholka – Shyrikyi Luh (all Ukraine) and Havešová Primeval Forest, Rožok, Stužnica – Bukovské Vrchy, Vihorlat (all Slovakia).
The Slovakian part of the site was first nominated separately in 2004, but was then withdrawn by the State Party to opt for a more likely to be succesfull transboundary nomnination with Ukraine.
Visit May 2008
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In preparation of my visit I had a difficult time finding any practical information about the nominated properties in Slovakia. My guidebook has nothing of any value on them, but does include a handy map called 'Snina wooden churches' that covers the same area. The IUCN evaluation holds a shady map, which seems to point out only 3 properties on the Slovak side instead of 4. A better bet for maps is the Slovak/Ukrainian nomination dossier. I also found a regional website (see link to the left, Snina Region) which has information about villages and parks. It describes access to the Vihorlat Protected Landscape via the village of Zemplínske Hámre. So I turn this route into the goal for myself today, possibly (weather and other circumstances permitting) with a walk to Morské Oko lake.
On the road eastward from Kosice, I quite suddenly encounter a sign 'Morské Oko' (near Remetské Hámre) - which is the lake on Mt. Vihorlat. I drive on (foolhardedly), determined to give the other side of the mountain a go. The closer I get to the Ukraine border, the more dense the soft green coloured forest gets. Especially the area around Ubl'a is very scenic. Here also I find two villages with domed Orthodox (or Eastern Catholic?) churches. Finally I arrive at 'my approach' to Vihorlat: Zemplinkske Hámre. Its streets are filled with churchgoers, who stare at me, the outsider. I drive all the way to where the road ends ... and then there's nothing! Well, this is where the mountain starts but I can't see myself walk into the forest without any guidance.
So is this WHS number 273 or a near miss? I believe I've straddled the borders of the inscribed area (or at least their buffer zones). I have seen mountains covered in thick forest of what I suppose are beeches. And I give myself some bonus points for trying! Actually I wonder if visitors ever reach the core areas, which are quite small (see the maps in the nomination dossier) and I wouldn't know how to get there without a local guide or camping out.
Reviews
Jarek Pokrzywnicki (Poland):
Basic info about Slovakian part only. Stuzica Reserve is the only easy accessible part of Heritage (with marked footpaths). Havesova and Vihorlat are located in remote part (if you have good map you can go there but there are no roads), Rozok is close to Ukrainian border with a road passing through but its not a marked footpath.
Stuzica in Slovakia is somehow similar to Bialowieza Forest, not in type of flora but as the area of no human activity. All fallen trees stay as they are the whole area is big enough to host big mammals, there are no paved roads inside the reserve. Two marked footpaths are the only way to get there. |
| Date posted: October 2008 |
Lukas Zemanek (CZECH REPUBLIC):
Hello,
I am very pleased that carpathian beech forests of Slovakia and Ukraine are listed as World Heritage sites. First time I visited Stuzhitsa primeval forest it was on august 2003, but I didn´t know about it anything, because I was going to Bieszczady national park in Poland, which boundaries with Stuzhitsa primeval forest. Second I recognize the value of this teritory, when I visited Poloniny national park in september 2004. I was lucky, because I wittnessed reintroduction of european bisons in Slovak part of East Carpathians biosphere reserve. It was one of two days in my life, when I watched this rare animal, which once roam across Europe in large herds. The second I spotted European bison in famous Bialowieza primeval forest in Poland. In Stuzhitsa primeval forests I spent two days and the access to this teritory is on red track path from Nova Sedlica, which is the easternmost village of Slovakia. In august 2006 I visited the ukrainian part of Stuzhitsa primeval forest, but an access is not so good, because there are barracks with soldiers. Finally they permitted the entrance into the Stuzhitsa primeval forest and I spent five days there. The last experience is from june 2007 when I visited Carpathian biosphere reserve Svidovetskyj masiv. If you are interested in this region, please let me know and I will send you some best photographs or video footage taken in these outstanding places, which in my opinion rank among the wildest in Europe. |
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