Aksum
The city of Aksum emerged several centuries before the birth of Christ, as the capital of a state that traded with ancient Greece, Egypt and Asia. With its navies sailing as far afield as Ceylon, Aksum later became the most important power between the Roman empire and Persia and for a while, controlled parts of South Arabia.
The earliest records and legends date back at least 3000 years. They suggest that it was from Aksum that Makeda, the fabled Queen of Sheba, journeyed to visit King Solomon in Jerusalem. Legend has it that a son was born to the Queen from her union with Solomon. This son, Menelik I, grew up in Ethiopia but travelled to Jerusalem as a young man. There he spent several years before coming back to his own country with the fabled Ark of the Covenant. The Ark, according to Ethiopian belief, has remained in Aksum ever since (in an annex to the Church of St. Mary of Zion).
In addition to the old St. Mary of Zion, there are many other relics and remains in Aksum dating back to pre-Christian and early Christian times. Among these, a series of inscriptions on stone tablets have proved to be of immense importance to historians of the ancient world. They include a trilingual text in Greek, Sabaean (language of South Arabia) and Ge'ez (classic Ethiopian), ordered by King Ezana in the 4th century AD. Also, there are the 3000 year old stelae and obelisks. The standing obelisk rises to a height of over 23 metres, and is exquisitely carved to represent a nine-storey building in the fashion of the 'tower-houses' of South Arabia.
Visit December 2003
The largest standing stele in Aksum I rate definitely as a world class sight. In a way so simple and so pure. But also so mysterious: how is it possible that a civilization existed here 2000 years ago that was capable of constructing such great monuments?
In and around the center of Aksum, many more remains of the Axumite Empire can be found. It's a bit like walking around in Greece - ruins scattered here and there. There is the Queen of Sheba's Bath, King Ezana's stone and King Kalebs Palace.
Another interesting thing to see in Aksum is the old St. Mary of Zion Church. Though not open to women, you can sit in the adjoining park and watch daily religious life go by.
More photos can be found in the Picture Gallery
Reviews
David Rose (USA):
Aksum both surprised and disappointed me when I visited there in June of 2006.
First of all, we saw these tombs that were similar to the tombs in the Valley of the Kings in Egypt, but without the hieroglyphics and ornate carvings. Still, very interesting.
The guide told me that 83% of Aksum was not yet surveyed because of poor funding. British and International archeologists are busy cleaning up sites, digging out tombs and preparing the way for tourists.
Three or four of the sites were not yet open to the public. One opened 2 weeks after I left.
The stelae park was well worth the visit, and in a few years (once again-funding), the stelae that the Italians stole and then gave back will be constructed just like it was in Rome.
Across the street was the church of St. Mary. It is a modern church, but I had the privelege of seeing their enormous 300 year old bible. Fantastic. David Lewis is right, the church where the ark is supposedly held is not so great. Though learning about the controversy is quite interesting. I have researched it and most scholars actually do trace the ark to Ethiopia...but then again, that's only if its still around.
The museum was interesting, but only at 10% capacity (they had about 20 tin sheds on the property chock full of ancient items from the area). The museum is being built behind stelae park.
Our guide took us to some shack far away from the city and inside was a type of "Rosetta" stone. A tablet with ancient greek (big hit with me), G'iz, and...something else. Tourists are apparently allowed to trace over it with paper if they wish. I wish I would have known about this place before I went, I would have brought something to copy it with(the tablet itself is hard to read).
Lastly, Queen Sheba's palace (if Sheba did indeed live there--our guide explained that many scholars doubt she ever existed) was like Hadrian's Wall in the UK. Various kinds of rocks stacked on top of one another and a few rock tiles. The guide told me that the locals had taken much of the property and want to sell the antiques back to the government. For example: Queen Sheba's throne. If the government tries to take the stuff back, the locals break it.
Aksum needs more funding for it to compete with the major sites in Egypt and Morocco. It has a lot to offer for allocentric tourists, but I was a bit disappointed. |
| Date posted: July 2006 |
David Lewis (Canada):
I visited Aksum in February of 2002, and found many wonderful historic sights that I had never heard of before going to Ethiopia. The Stallea park is very interesting and there are many differnt styles, but that is just the start.
Unless you happen to be in the north part of the country, the best way to get to Aksum is by flying. When I was there a flight would cost about 350 Birr, which at the time was less than 100 dollars Canadian (about 65 American Dollars). The flight is about 2 1/2 hours from Addis Abbaba, and as car rental is expensive it is very economical to fly. You can take a bus for about 100-150 Birr but it is a very long drive ( 16-20 hours minimum and very uncomfortable) however I did ride many buses in Ethiopia and you will always be very safe and you will meet many friendly people who love to chat with anyone forign.
Once you arrive at the Airport, you can get a lift into town with one of many hotels. The hotels offer a free shuttle into the town and since you will have to stay somewhere it is best to get a ride with the shuttle as Taxis are quite expensive 30-50 dollars Canadian.
The hotle I stayed at was the Africa hotel and Rooms were around 50 Birr a night which was around 10 Dollars Canadian (6-7 American) The Africa is quite a basic hotel but it is central, clean and has hot water (it is important to check because not hotels have hot water). The is also a very nice hotel called the Yehe which is very attractive, and has the most forign guests. The Yehe is pricy by Etiopian Standards but to Westerners 50 Dollars a night is not surprising and as it sits on a hilltop with a wonderful view it's well woth the extra money if you like creature comforts. I was travelling with family who were volunteers in Ethiopia and they were fine with budget hotels, so we didn't stay there but I chatted with many people and The Yehe is quite attractive.
The best way to see all Aksum has to offer is to go to the museum and find a guide. As you make your way through town you will be approached by many, many peolpe offering to be your guide. It is best to hold out for an official guide. The people who approch you in the street are quite frindly but their knowledge is often suspect. When you get to the museum you will again be approched by many guides. Some are actual archeologists and they will ask for about 400 Birr for the Day, but if you negotiate you can settle on a price of around 200 Birr which is a fair price. As an aside many people told me they got a better price, but since Ethiopia is a very poor country I didn't mind paying a little more. I will say be sure to ask questions of your guide and don't hesitate to ask for some credentials. The quality of guides really varries and a legit guide will be able to show you some identification. Since there is a lot to see a good guide is vital, and the njoyment you get is important. Also legit guides have keys to some sights that only they have access to and are really worth seeing. I can't say this enough spend the money on an experienced guide and your trip will be much better. You will also be wise to hire a taxi for the day since the days are very hot. Healthy people who don't mind a lot of walking may forgo a taxi, but if you want to see all the sights the 150 Birr for a taxi for the whole day is a good investment.
The Stellae park is not to be missed, and Queen Sheba's Palace is also a sight not to be missed . The Church of St. Mary's is said to house the Ark Of The Covenant, but it costs about 100 Birr for a "Donation" (required to enter) and Women are not allowed to enter, and I must say it is a very high cost for something that I didn't find very interesting, also you aren't actually shown the Ark Of the Covenent, just a building where it is housed. Besides all that most scholars don't believe the Ark even is in the building. I will say that I am not a religous person and some people I spoke with who were very relgious thought it was terrific, so if you are a devout Christian you may want to see the church.
Overall I would say that Aksum is one of the most intersting sights I visited in Ethiopia and it is well worth the trek. I would also suggest seeing the rock-hewn Churches of Lalibella and if you go by plane you can fly directly from one sight to the other. One of the nice things about both these sights is that Tourism is not very popular in Ethiopia so you can see everything at your leisure without fighting big crowds. I was very happy I went to Ethipia and I have seldom met nicer people anywhere in the world. |
| |
Have you been to Aksum? Share your experiences!
Add your own review
