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Takht-i-Bahi Michael Novins

Takht-i-Bahi by Michael Novins

I left Islamabad early on a December 2017 morning on the Grand Trunk Road to Taxila, an hour to the northwest, to visit the WHS's ruined second-century Buddhist monastery. From Taxila, it was a two-hour drive to Takht-i-Bahi, another Buddhist monastery, which was abandoned in the seventh century. From Takht-i-Bahi, it was less than an hour to Peshawar, where I arrived just in time for Friday prayers at the 17th-century Mahabat Khan Mosque. The mosque is located down one of the many narrow passageways in Qissa Khawani Bazaar, where the friendly vendors were surprised to see an overseas customer. In fact, I didn't seen any other foreign visitors in the heavily fortified and militarized city, maybe because it's less than 40 miles from the border with Afghanistan.

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Rohtas Fort Michael Novins

Rohtas Fort by Michael Novins

In December 2017, I set out on the Grand Trunk Road from Lahore to Islamabad, where, after around four hours, we reached the much-improved turn off to the sixteenth-century Rohtas Fort. From what I was told, the fort receives very few western tourists; in fact, I was the only overseas tourist during my visit, so I was assigned a personal security detail. I’m not sure a guard was necessary, though, since all of the locals who approached me were only after a group photo with the foreign intruder.

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Makli, Thatta Michael Novins

Makli, Thatta by Michael Novins

In December 2017, I made a day trip from Karachi to Makli necropolis, about 60 miles to its east, which might be the world’s largest funerary site -- the ten square kilometer burial ground contains approximately one million tombs, mostly built between 1570 and 1640. Almost as interesting as the abundant tombs, were two elderly snake charmers who set up shop along the dirt path leading from the entrance to the tombs. The snake charmers seek visitors to fund a musical performance on the pungi, the wind instrument whose rhythmic sound and movements appear to hypnotize a de-fanged Indian cobra. Their second act is to entice visitors to purchase a serpent to battle an Indian mongoose to the death, although the mammal’s acrobatic agility, coarse coat and resistance to snake venom ensure its victory.

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Sya, centre historique de Bobo-Dioulasso (T) Michael Novins

Sya, centre historique de Bobo-Dioulasso (T) by Michael Novins

In November 2017, I spent a few days in Bobo-Dioulasso, Burkina Faso's second largest city, but much more appealing for a tourist than Ouagadougou, the enchantingly named capital. The most vibrant area is around the Grand Marché, the atmospheric market, where all the typical foodstuffs, colorful textiles and household goods are on offer; stranger fare was available on the outskirts in the fetish section. Bobo-Dioulasso’s highlight is the Grand Mosquée, made of mud with timber struts that peek through the plaster. I stayed at Villa Rose, where the Dutch owner was very helpful (in fact, she called me after I made my booking to see if she could answer any questions or provide any information on traveling in Burkina Faso) — plus the room, food, WiFi and outdoor space were great. On the drive from Bobo to Ouagadougou, I stopped at the sacred crocodile lakes at Sabou and Bazoule.

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Zone Giraphe (T) Michael Novins

Zone Giraphe (T) by Michael Novins

Until the 1960s, before persistent drought and population growth, the West African giraffe ranged widely throughout West Africa. The last self-sustaining herd can be found an hour east of Niamey at the Kouré Giraffe Reserve, which I visited in November 2017. From a low of around 50 giraffes in the mid-1980s, the herd is estimated to number more than 400. I found 15, which were easy to approach on foot.

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Name: Michael Novins

Country: United States

Visited WHS: 497

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Recently Visited WHS

Update 29.12.17

Lists

  1. Galapagos Islands
  2. Brazilian Atlantic Islands
  3. Mount Qingcheng and Dujiangyan
  4. Longmen Grottoes
  5. Imperial Tombs
  6. Cape Floral Region
  7. Notre-Dame Cathedral in Tournai
  8. Echmiatsin and Zvartnots
  9. Ephesus
  10. Val di Noto
  11. Villa d'Este
  12. Dorset and East Devon Coast
  13. Vienna
  14. Masada
  15. Old City of Acre
  16. Aranjuez
  17. Tugendhat Villa
  18. Lamu Old Town
  19. Mazagan
  20. Kenya Lake System
  21. Calakmul
  22. Upper Middle Rhine Valley
  23. Stralsund and Wismar
  24. Trebic
  25. Kew Gardens
  26. Town Hall and Roland, Bremen
  27. White City of Tel-Aviv
  28. Novodevichy Convent
  29. Rio de Janeiro
  30. Incense Route of the Negev
  31. Biblical Tells
  32. Macao
  33. Kaiping Diaolou
  34. Lagoons of New Caledonia
  35. Quebrada de Humahuaca
  36. Royal Exhibition Building
  37. Luis Barragán House and Studio
  38. Lopé-Okanda
  39. Ilulissat Icefjord
  40. Liverpool
  41. Thingvellir
  42. Pitons Management Area
  43. Vredefort Dome
  44. Gulf of California
  45. Wadi Al-Hitan
  46. Harar
  47. Qal'at al-Bahrain
  48. Nesvizh
  49. Tiya
  50. Syracuse
  51. Central Highlands
  52. Tequila
  53. Kathmandu Valley
  54. Genoa
  55. Sichuan Giant Panda Sanctuaries
  56. Sewell Mining Town
  57. Vizcaya Bridge
  58. Bahá’i Holy Places
  59. Rideau Canal
  60. Aapravasi Ghat
  61. Crac des Chevaliers
  62. Mijikenda Kaya Forests
  63. León Cathedral
  64. Berlin Modernism Housing Estates
  65. Nisa
  66. Lavaux, Vineyard Terraces
  67. San Marino and Mount Titano
  68. Kotor
  69. Central University City Campus of the UNAM
  70. Rainforests of the Atsinanana
  71. Teide National Park
  72. Le Morne
  73. Jeju
  74. São Francisco Square
  75. Wooden Churches of the Slovak Carpathians
  76. San Miguel de Allende
  77. Hiraizumi
  78. Fortifications of Vauban
  79. Mantua and Sabbioneta
  80. Copan
  81. Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve
  82. Fort Jesus
  83. Stoclet House
  84. La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle
  85. Dengfeng
  86. Australian Convict Sites
  87. Valletta
  88. Cidade Velha
  89. Tower of Hercules
  90. Pitons of Reunion
  91. Royal Joseon Tombs
  92. Megalithic Temples of Malta
  93. Hahoe and Yangdong
  94. Turaif Quarter
  95. West Lake
  96. Jantar Mantar
  97. Redwood
  98. Al Ain
  99. Ancient villages of Northern Syria
  100. Amsterdam Canal Ring
  101. Camino Real
  102. Yagul and Mitla
  103. Historic Jeddah
  104. Prehistoric Pile Dwellings
  105. Selimiye Mosque
  106. Fagus Factory
  107. Bridgetown
  108. Rock Islands
  109. Taxila
  110. Mount Carmel Caves
  111. Levuka
  112. Takht-i-Bahi
  113. Grand Pré
  114. Red Bay Basque Whaling Station
  115. Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe
  116. Fujisan
  117. Mount Etna
  118. Makli, Thatta
  119. Namib Sand Sea
  120. Okavango Delta
  121. Bethlehem
  122. Poverty Point
  123. Namhansanseong
  124. Silk Roads
  125. Grand Canal
  126. Tomioka Silk Mill
  127. Champagne
  128. San Antonio Missions
  129. Speicherstadt and Kontorhaus District
  130. Kakadu National Park
  131. Necropolis of Bet She'arim
  132. Old City of Jerusalem
  133. Sites of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution
  134. Arab-Norman Palermo
  135. Quirigua
  136. Antigua Naval Dockyard
  137. Aksum
  138. Mammoth Cave
  139. Nan Madol
  140. Olympic National Park
  141. Great Barrier Reef
  142. ǂKhomani Cultural Landscape
  143. Serengeti
  144. Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump
  145. Fontainebleau
  146. Amiens Cathedral
  147. Arles
  148. Sydney Opera House
  149. Speyer Cathedral
  150. Medina of Fez
  151. Fort and Shalamar Gardens
  152. Stone Town of Zanzibar
  153. Florence
  154. Lalibela
  155. Tasmanian Wilderness
  156. Leptis Magna
  157. Sabratha
  158. Lord Howe Island
  159. Hildesheim Cathedral and Church
  160. Olinda
  161. Fasil Ghebbi
  162. Djémila
  163. Tipasa
  164. Timgad
  165. Cahokia Mounds
  166. Quito
  167. Damascus
  168. Anuradhapura
  169. Polonnaruva
  170. Sigiriya
  171. Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans
  172. Old Havana
  173. Angra do Heroismo
  174. Aleppo
  175. Rila Monastery
  176. Palmyra
  177. Humayun's Tomb
  178. Qutb Minar
  179. Khajuraho Group of Monuments
  180. Ajanta Caves
  181. Ellora Caves
  182. Elephanta Caves
  183. Hill Forts of Rajasthan
  184. Mahabalipuram
  185. Agra Fort
  186. Taj Mahal
  187. Fatehpur Sikri
  188. Great Smoky Mountains
  189. Vallée de Mai
  190. Belem
  191. La Fortaleza
  192. Old City of Berne
  193. Abbey of St Gall
  194. Mesa Verde
  195. Lübeck
  196. Cuzco
  197. Machu Picchu
  198. Jesuit Missions of the Guaranis
  199. Yellowstone
  200. Chitwan National Park
  201. Cartagena
  202. Vatican City
  203. Castles of Augustusburg and Falkenlust
  204. Cracow
  205. Cologne Cathedral
  206. Anjar
  207. Baalbek
  208. Byblos
  209. Aachen Cathedral
  210. Warsaw
  211. Québec
  212. Iguazu National Park
  213. Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks
  214. Statue of Liberty
  215. Yosemite National Park
  216. Salvador de Bahia
  217. Auschwitz Birkenau
  218. Altamira Cave
  219. Segovia
  220. Asturian Monuments
  221. Cordoba
  222. Granada
  223. Burgos Cathedral
  224. El Escurial
  225. Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines
  226. Works of Antoni Gaudí
  227. Royal Palaces of Abomey
  228. Petra
  229. Medina of Marrakesh
  230. Forts and Castles Gold Coast
  231. Pont du Gard
  232. Santiago de Compostela
  233. Avila
  234. Painted Churches in the Troödos Region
  235. Chaco Culture
  236. Waterton Glacier International Peace Park
  237. Istanbul
  238. Göreme NP
  239. Medina of Tunis
  240. Evora
  241. Trier
  242. Gondwana Rainforests
  243. Site of Carthage
  244. Stonehenge
  245. Mudejar Architecture of Aragon
  246. Toledo
  247. Amphitheater of El Jem
  248. Salamanca
  249. Seville
  250. Caceres
  251. Studenica Monastery
  252. Ngorongoro
  253. Skocjan Caves
  254. Venice and its Lagoon
  255. Piazza del Duomo (Pisa)
  256. L'Anse aux Meadows
  257. Budapest
  258. Acropolis
  259. Hawaii Volcanoes
  260. Sian Ka'an
  261. Palenque
  262. Mexico City and Xochimilco
  263. Teotihuacan
  264. Oaxaca and Monte Alban
  265. Puebla
  266. Gros Morne National Park
  267. Potosi
  268. Lake District
  269. Blenheim Palace
  270. Westminster
  271. City of Bath
  272. Great Wall
  273. Imperial Palace
  274. Mogao Caves
  275. Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor
  276. Monticello
  277. Ksar of Aït Ben Haddou
  278. Uluru
  279. Kandy
  280. Old Town of Galle
  281. Sundarbans National Park
  282. Luang Prabang
  283. Guanajuato
  284. Chichen-Itza
  285. Tower of London
  286. Epidaurus
  287. Taos Pueblo
  288. Rhodes
  289. Canterbury
  290. Medina of Sousse
  291. Lima
  292. Victoria Falls
  293. Neolithic Orkney
  294. Abbey and Altenmünster of Lorsch
  295. Poblet Monastery
  296. Santo Domingo
  297. Kiev
  298. Potsdam
  299. Garden Kingdom of Dessau-Wörlitz
  300. St. Petersburg
  301. Vilnius
  302. Kremlin and Red Square
  303. Maulbronn Monastery
  304. Te Wahipounamu
  305. Whale Sanctuary of El Vizcaino
  306. Skogskyrkogarden
  307. Drottningholm
  308. Golden Temple of Dambulla
  309. Kasbah of Algiers
  310. Sucre
  311. Tiwanaku
  312. Berat and Gjirokastra
  313. Butrint
  314. Ayutthaya
  315. Sammallahdenmäki
  316. Old Rauma
  317. Fortress of Suomenlinna
  318. Morelia
  319. Rohtas Fort
  320. Borobudur
  321. Paris, Banks of the Seine
  322. Reims
  323. Bukhara
  324. Samarkand
  325. Komodo National Park
  326. Ruins of León Viejo
  327. Prague
  328. Cesky Krumlov
  329. Banska Stiavnica
  330. Telc
  331. Rammelsberg and Goslar
  332. Mir Castle
  333. El Tajin
  334. White Monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal
  335. Church of the Ascension, Kolomenskoye
  336. Tikal National Park
  337. Prambanan
  338. Antigua Guatemala
  339. Trinity Sergius Lavra
  340. Himeji-jo
  341. Mérida
  342. Santa Maria de Guadelupe
  343. Angkor
  344. Matera
  345. Joya de Ceren
  346. Zacatecas
  347. Baroque Churches
  348. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
  349. Völklingen Ironworks
  350. Ancient Kyoto
  351. Roskilde Cathedral
  352. Kronborg Castle
  353. City of Luxembourg
  354. Popocatepetl monasteries
  355. Potala Palace
  356. Mtskheta
  357. Dinosaur Provincial Park
  358. Gelati Monastery
  359. Vicenza
  360. Rock Paintings of the Sierra de San Francisco
  361. Rapa Nui
  362. Glacier parks
  363. Messel Pit
  364. Carlsbad Caverns
  365. Sintra
  366. Medieval Monuments in Kosovo
  367. Naples
  368. Edinburgh
  369. Bauhaus Sites
  370. Kutna Hora
  371. Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple
  372. Jongmyo Shrine
  373. Schokland
  374. Old Town Lunenburg
  375. Colonia del Sacramento
  376. W-Arly-Pendjari Complex
  377. Grand Canyon
  378. Medina of Essaouira
  379. Lake Baikal
  380. Oporto
  381. Defence Line of Amsterdam
  382. Everglades
  383. Fertö/Neusiedlersee
  384. Genbaku Dome
  385. Itsukushima Shrine
  386. Mount Emei, including Leshan Giant Buddha
  387. Independence Hall
  388. Cuenca
  389. La Lonja de la Seda
  390. Luther Memorials
  391. Salzburg
  392. Semmering Railway
  393. Schönbrunn
  394. The trulli of Alberobello
  395. Paphos
  396. Panamá
  397. Uxmal
  398. Querétaro
  399. Meknes
  400. Dougga/Thugga
  401. Maritime Greenwich
  402. Verona
  403. Palau de la Musica Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau
  404. Yuso and Suso Monasteries
  405. Euphrasian Basilica in Porec
  406. Chartres Cathedral
  407. Classical Gardens of Suzhou
  408. Morne Trois Pitons
  409. Hospicio Cabañas
  410. Changdeokgung Palace Complex
  411. Hwaseong Fortress
  412. Willemstad
  413. Tallinn
  414. Residences of the Royal House of Savoy
  415. Botanical Garden, Padua
  416. Pompei
  417. Versailles
  418. Agrigento
  419. Villa Romana del Casale
  420. Su Nuraxi di Barumini
  421. Volubilis
  422. Classical Weimar
  423. Malbork Castle
  424. Choirokoitia
  425. Riga
  426. Flemish Béguinages
  427. Grand Place, Brussels
  428. Holy Trinity Column
  429. Pyramids (Memphis)
  430. Gardens and Castle at Kromeríz
  431. Holasovice
  432. Tlacotalpan
  433. L'viv
  434. Ir. D.F. Woudagemaal
  435. Ancient Thebes
  436. Ancient Nara
  437. Lyon
  438. Provins
  439. Tarraco
  440. Alcala de Henares
  441. Summer Palace
  442. Temple of Heaven
  443. Bellinzone
  444. Ancient Merv
  445. Kuk
  446. Historic Cairo
  447. Campeche
  448. Museumsinsel (Museum Island)
  449. Beemster Polder
  450. Simien National Park
  451. Litomysl Castle
  452. Villa Adriana (Tivoli)
  453. Rome
  454. Brimstone Hill Fortress
  455. Dazu Rock Carvings
  456. Nikko
  457. iSimangaliso Wetland Park
  458. Fossil Hominid Sites
  459. Robben Island
  460. Greater Blue Mountains
  461. San Cristobal de La Laguna
  462. Santa Maria delle Grazie
  463. Palmeral of Elche
  464. Graz
  465. Loire Valley
  466. Laurisilva of Madeira
  467. Peninsula Valdes
  468. Xochicalco
  469. Paramaribo
  470. Mycenae and Tiryns
  471. Belfries
  472. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus
  473. Mostar
  474. Dubrovnik
  475. Ambohimanga
  476. Saint Catherine Area
  477. Walled City of Baku
  478. Valparaiso
  479. Stari Ras and Sopocani
  480. Monastery of Geghard
  481. Rietveld Schröderhuis
  482. Ischigualasto / Talampaya
  483. Wachau Cultural Landscape
  484. Churches of Chiloé
  485. Gusuku of Ryukyu
  486. Gyeongju
  487. Corfu
  488. St. George, Bermuda
  489. Blaenavon Industrial Landscape
  490. Maloti Drakensberg
  491. Roman Walls of Lugo
  492. Atapuerca
  493. Ohrid Region
  494. Curonian Spit
  495. Jesuit Block and Estancias of Córdoba
  496. Brugge
  497. Grand-Bassam
  1. Amritsar
  2. Bagan
  3. Chicago School of Architecture
  4. Copper Canyon
  5. Death Valley National Park
  6. Devils Island (on French Guiana)
  7. Dzongs of Bhutan
  8. Ephesus
  9. Historic University Towns of Oxford and Cambridge
  10. Kaieteur National Park, Iwokrama Forest and the Kanuku Mountains
  11. Major Buildings of Frank Lloyd Wright
  12. Minoan palaces of Crete
  13. Nan Madol
  14. Okavango Delta
  15. Plain of Jars / Sites Mégalithiques de la province de Xieng Khouang
  16. Scrovegni's Chapel
  17. Tanna Island
  18. The Soviet Architecture of Moscow
  19. Torres del Paine National Park
  20. Varanasi
  1. Galapagos Islands
  2. Lower Valley of the Awash
  3. Brazilian Atlantic Islands
  4. Longmen Grottoes
  5. Cape Floral Region
  6. Ephesus
  7. Vienna
  8. Three parallel rivers of Yunnan
  9. Rio de Janeiro
  10. Persepolis
  11. Ilulissat Icefjord
  12. Djenné
  13. Tropical Rainforest Sumatra
  14. West Norwegian Fjords
  15. Sagarmatha National Park
  16. Kathmandu Valley
  17. Sichuan Giant Panda Sanctuaries
  18. Melaka and George Town
  19. Crac des Chevaliers
  20. Ouro Preto
  21. Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve
  22. Megalithic Temples of Malta
  23. Redwood
  24. Ancient villages of Northern Syria
  25. Amsterdam Canal Ring
  26. Selimiye Mosque
  27. Rock Islands
  28. Fujisan
  29. Decorated cave of Pont d'Arc
  30. Namib Sand Sea
  31. Okavango Delta
  32. Bethlehem
  33. Kakadu National Park
  34. Old City of Jerusalem
  35. Great Barrier Reef
  36. Serengeti
  37. Fontainebleau
  38. Amiens Cathedral
  39. Sydney Opera House
  40. Medina of Fez
  41. Stone Town of Zanzibar
  42. Florence
  43. Lalibela
  44. Tasmanian Wilderness
  45. Leptis Magna
  46. Sabratha
  47. Aldabra Atoll
  48. Timgad
  49. Quito
  50. Damascus
  51. Sigiriya
  52. Old Havana
  53. Aleppo
  54. Rila Monastery
  55. Palmyra
  56. Qutb Minar
  57. Churches and Convents of Goa
  58. Khajuraho Group of Monuments
  59. Ajanta Caves
  60. Ellora Caves
  61. Hill Forts of Rajasthan
  62. Mahabalipuram
  63. Agra Fort
  64. Taj Mahal
  65. Mesa Verde
  66. Cuzco
  67. Machu Picchu
  68. Yellowstone
  69. Cartagena
  70. Vatican City
  71. Lake Malawi
  72. Cracow
  73. Cologne Cathedral
  74. Baalbek
  75. Iguazu National Park
  76. Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks
  77. Statue of Liberty
  78. Salvador de Bahia
  79. Auschwitz Birkenau
  80. Altamira Cave
  81. Segovia
  82. Granada
  83. Wieliczka and Bochnia Royal Salt Mines
  84. Works of Antoni Gaudí
  85. Petra
  86. Medina of Marrakesh
  87. Pont du Gard
  88. Istanbul
  89. Göreme NP
  90. Great Zimbabwe Ruins
  91. Giant's Causeway
  92. Durham Castle and Cathedral
  93. Stonehenge
  94. Amphitheater of El Jem
  95. Seville
  96. Sana'a
  97. Ngorongoro
  98. Venice and its Lagoon
  99. Piazza del Duomo (Pisa)
  100. Budapest
  101. Kilimanjaro National Park
  102. Acropolis
  103. Hawaii Volcanoes
  104. Palenque
  105. Mexico City and Xochimilco
  106. Teotihuacan
  107. Oaxaca and Monte Alban
  108. Westminster
  109. City of Bath
  110. Great Wall
  111. Imperial Palace
  112. Mogao Caves
  113. Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor
  114. Monticello
  115. Ksar of Aït Ben Haddou
  116. Uluru
  117. Nemrut Dag
  118. Old Town of Galle
  119. Meteora
  120. Luang Prabang
  121. Guanajuato
  122. Chichen-Itza
  123. Tsingy de Bemaraha
  124. Canterbury
  125. Lima
  126. Victoria Falls
  127. Cliff of Bandiagara
  128. St. Petersburg
  129. Kremlin and Red Square
  130. Whale Sanctuary of El Vizcaino
  131. Sucre
  132. Borobudur
  133. Paris, Banks of the Seine
  134. Bukhara
  135. Samarkand
  136. Komodo National Park
  137. Prague
  138. Cesky Krumlov
  139. El Tajin
  140. Tikal National Park
  141. Antigua Guatemala
  142. Himeji-jo
  143. Mérida
  144. Angkor
  145. Ha Long Bay
  146. Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
  147. Ancient Kyoto
  148. Nasca Lines
  149. Potala Palace
  150. Dinosaur Provincial Park
  151. Rapa Nui
  152. Siena
  153. Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras
  154. Naples
  155. Edinburgh
  156. Colonia del Sacramento
  157. Grand Canyon
  158. Lake Baikal
  159. Everglades
  160. Volcanoes of Kamchatka
  161. Genbaku Dome
  162. Schönbrunn
  163. The trulli of Alberobello
  164. Panamá
  165. Maritime Greenwich
  166. Mont-Saint-Michel
  167. Palau de la Musica Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau
  168. Chartres Cathedral
  169. Pompei
  170. Versailles
  171. Agrigento
  172. Villa Romana del Casale
  173. Su Nuraxi di Barumini
  174. Volubilis
  175. Grand Place, Brussels
  176. Pyramids (Memphis)
  177. Ancient Thebes
  178. Temple of Heaven
  179. Historic Cairo
  180. Rome
  181. Peninsula Valdes
  182. Mountain Railways of India
  183. Dubrovnik
  184. Saint Catherine Area
  185. Island of Saint-Louis
  186. Brugge
  187. Central Amazon Conservation Complex
  188. Pantanal
  189. Virunga National Park
  190. Sub-Antarctic Islands
  191. Socotra Archipelago
  192. Meroe